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#51
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Ninong |
#52
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Hey guys, aren't you agreeing with me that you CAN get an ich outbreak from live sand. I know you can but I just couldn't believe I hadn't read about it anywhere.
If you think this discussion is a little rough, you should have heard the guys from our local reef club going around about it. This question, for some reason, always stumps the techies, but the guys from the hard knocks school know all about it. |
#53
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Remember that the tomont stage can be viable up to four weeks. Most tomonts excyst in less than 10 days but it's possible for a few to remain viable longer.
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Ninong |
#54
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Back to the QT issue then... We are now way beyond sticking an airstone in a 5-gal bucket and keeping Nemo in there for 4-5 days. So, if I am having to re-stock from scratch, save my corals and other inverts, IN Y'ALL'S OPINIONS, I should probably set up a 20-29 gal in relative proximity to the display tank and keep the salinity low (at 1.009 - I know) and then only add new items to my DS in 4-6 week intervals? Will corals, clams, anemones, etc., handle a month in hypo, or can/should I just FW dip them for 10 mins and add to DS?
I am guessing now, based on the last few posts, hypo is better than keeping copper in tank due to stress and the hassle factor. I know that my LFS usually keeps their newly acquired fish in a slightly hyposaline environment and they keep copper in their water to minimize infection. Obviously, in my case, that wasn't enough to just blindly trust them. Thanks so much for all of y'all's input. It is IMMENSELY appreciated, Dave the Noobie
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"Back off, man! I'm a scientist!" |
#55
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Re: my interests about my QT tank setup. You CANNOT use hypo on inverts, corals. They will die
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Freed |
#56
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All you have to do with inverts, clams, corals is keep them in QT at normal salinity(1.025) for the 4-6 weeks in which time the ich will die off on its own.
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Freed |
#57
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Do not FW dip and add to main tank unless you want to risk infecting the tank all over again with ich. FW dip will hurt the coral more than it will the ich.
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Freed |
#58
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I wouldn't recommend lowering the specific gravity in your quarantine tank UNLESS you have reason to do so, such as to eliminate a problem with C. irritans. Then you have to drop it all the way down to 1.009 because 1.017 won't do any good in spite of what some people have written.
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Ninong |
#59
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Very true...I made the mistake of QT'ing and doing a hypo treatment on my fish after an ich outbreak. I dropped the salinity down to 1.012 thinking that that would be low enough. Low and behold, about two weeks later, I had another small outbreak (not near as big as it was) on my flame angel. After more research, you MUST get your salinity down to 1.009 as stubborn parasites can still survive at SG of 1.011. As you stated dclaghorn (I think it was you), you want to do a hypo on MOST fish. Do research on your species. Most rays and sharks won't handle that type of SG drop and will perish (although if you're into sharks and rays right now you might be in too deep andover your head already-no pun intended). Make sure that when you do a hypo treatment to bring the SG down gradually over a couple days..not all at once. Too much of a shock for fish. Take even more time to bring the SG back up (a good week would be ideal). Follow this plan and everything should work out great.
PS this has turned into a really good thread!!
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~Adam Loving a hobby where there are few absolute right answers, many ways of doing things, a lot of good advice and, after all's said and done, a few ppm can cost you a whole lotta dough!! |
#60
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Assuming you are seeding your sand bed--you need only one cup of live sand from another tank----one without visible ich for 4-6 weeks.
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"evrr bean to sea Billy--evrr smelled a fish?" "Aye capn..experience is the best teacher" |
#61
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"evrr bean to sea Billy--evrr smelled a fish?" "Aye capn..experience is the best teacher" |
#62
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"KNOWINGLY HAD ICH" You've got to be kidding.
This sand came from out west from the guys who specialize in bullet proof tanks. G**F I'm not trying to bad mouth anybody because even they realized what happened and tried to correct the situation with a new order. That's were the twice came from! |
#63
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Ninong |
#64
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Well, when you get the majority of people that tell you it couldn't have been the sand. I was a real newbie then.
The majority still are. |
#65
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"evrr bean to sea Billy--evrr smelled a fish?" "Aye capn..experience is the best teacher" |
#66
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Ok Capn, I'd like to send you a cup of sand.
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#67
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Come on, it's only a cup of sand.
The high is about 40 degrees today. I'll sit it out side for UPS pick-up! |
#68
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"evrr bean to sea Billy--evrr smelled a fish?" "Aye capn..experience is the best teacher" |
#69
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The tank was doing very well in the qt tank but now has taken a turn for the worse!
what filtration do you guys use in your qt tanks. my qt is 80 litres i dont think the tang is going to make it the good news is all other fish are doing really well do you leave your qt set up all of the time i would like to but i just dont have the room in my house to have another tank set up & i am also guessing that as this thread suggests that you qt all claims etc you would need halide lights?
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620 litre main tank with 150 L sump Aquamedic aqua sunlight 3x 250watt with 4 T5 80watt and moon light on light computer |
#70
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20 gallon Q U A R A N T I N E(220 watts of VHO light)
Interests: 20 gallon QT tank($10), VHO lighting for QT tank($80), Skimmer and canister filter for QT tank($300), A N D No ich in main tanks(Priceless)
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