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#1
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GE Silicone II set-time???
i sealed my billars in my sump last night with GE silicone II sealent. How long should i wait to put water into the sump???
Is 24hrs adequate? Anyone have any personal experience here? thanks. |
#2
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24 hrs should be fine.... But smell it... if it smells like vinegar, it hasnt set yet.
You can throw a fan on there too to speed it up, but id wait atleast 24 hours.
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Yes, Krikor is my real name... DVRC Respect _____________________________ |
#3
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make sure that silicone does not say mildew or mold resistant. If it does you will slowly kill off your tank.
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"You said it didn't bite!"......."Well"......"It didn't bite me." Even in failure, your only a failure when you quite trying. |
#4
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Why is this? do you know 1st hand?
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#5
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mildew/mold ihibitor is posion... it will kill off your tank as it leaches into the water.. you want GE Silicon II or I Window and door. not bathroom.
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Yes, Krikor is my real name... DVRC Respect _____________________________ |
#6
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I used GE silicon II window & door sealent but i kinda recal it stating on the bottle that it was mold and mildew resistant????
I used the GE II W&D b/c someone stated yesterday that was what they used and it was fine???? should i be worried here? Redo? Quote:
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#7
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just check the tube and make sure it doesn't say mildew or mold resistant. I know silicone choice is a hard one.
__________________
"You said it didn't bite!"......."Well"......"It didn't bite me." Even in failure, your only a failure when you quite trying. |
#8
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If it says BioSeal or something like that then don't use it, I used it on my sump, only ran for 12 hrs. Killed 1 fish and 3 corals.
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We are what we repeatedly do, excellence then, is not an act, but a habit. - Aristotle |
#9
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D@mn so did you just redo it after that or keep running it???
Also, if it does say either of those can i just put a reef safe sealant over the other stuff already on there or do i need to strip it down??? Quote:
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#10
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You need to strip it off of there. I am pretty sure that the silicone 1 windows and doors is the only one without the bio seal.
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Joe Cude Save a reef, trade a frag! |
#11
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F$%@
someone on here gave me some false info yesterday, that suxs. Seriously I wish people who don't know what they are talking about would stop giving bad advice. Quote:
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#12
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F$%^
GE II has the bio-seal. http://www.geadvancedmaterials.com/g...l/bioseal.html Well thanks to someone giving advice on something they don't know what they are talking about I will be stripping and re-doing tonight. What a bummer... |
#13
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I stripped it completely down, cleaned with acetone and redid it.
__________________
We are what we repeatedly do, excellence then, is not an act, but a habit. - Aristotle |
#14
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#15
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what is acetone? Just a clearner, can i get it anywhere, wal-mart?
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#16
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#17
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that was easy to find:
Cleaning fluid Acetone is often the primary (or only) component in nail polish remover. Acetonitrile, another organic solvent, is sometimes used as well. Acetone is also used as a superglue remover. It can be used for thinning and cleaning fiberglass resins and epoxies. It is a strong solvent for most plastics and synthetic fibres. It is ideal for thinning fiberglass resin, cleaning fiberglass tools and dissolving two-part epoxies and superglue before hardening. A heavy-duty degreaser, it is useful in the preparation of metal prior to painting; it also thins polyester resins, vinyl and adhesives. It easily removes residues from glass and porcelain. In biological research contexts, buffers that contain acetone (such as citrate-buffered formalin) use the acetone to lyse cells for further experimentation. Additionally, acetone is extremely effective when used as a cleaning agent when dealing with permanent markers. Also acetone can be used as an artistic agent; when rubbed on the back of any laser print or laser photocopy it produces a rough ready effect. Quote:
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#18
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that was easy to find but where do you get it???:
Cleaning fluid Acetone is often the primary (or only) component in nail polish remover. Acetonitrile, another organic solvent, is sometimes used as well. Acetone is also used as a superglue remover. It can be used for thinning and cleaning fiberglass resins and epoxies. It is a strong solvent for most plastics and synthetic fibres. It is ideal for thinning fiberglass resin, cleaning fiberglass tools and dissolving two-part epoxies and superglue before hardening. A heavy-duty degreaser, it is useful in the preparation of metal prior to painting; it also thins polyester resins, vinyl and adhesives. It easily removes residues from glass and porcelain. In biological research contexts, buffers that contain acetone (such as citrate-buffered formalin) use the acetone to lyse cells for further experimentation. Additionally, acetone is extremely effective when used as a cleaning agent when dealing with permanent markers. Also acetone can be used as an artistic agent; when rubbed on the back of any laser print or laser photocopy it produces a rough ready effect. Quote:
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#19
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Some GE II is fine... the only difference in 1 and 2 is curing agent and that effects adhesian strengh. (1 is ammonia, 2 is acetic acid)
I use black GE II for some things. make sure it says 100% silicon and isnt that half acryllic stuff. I dont know if they have changed the formula lately... this silicon conversation comes up atleast twice every month. Acetone is also known as Nail Pollish remover. Just a solvent. Just gotta read and be careful... Usually the cheaper the tube is the better for the aquarium it its. I have heard that you can get 1 dollor tubes of plain ole silicon from Walmart (wally's world) that is some no name brand and works fantastically.... this is one thing where cheaper is better (unless you buy the stuff "FOR" aquariums then its like 5 times as much, ha ha)
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Yes, Krikor is my real name... DVRC Respect _____________________________ |
#20
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Quote:
James |
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