My first Diy Project. Nitrate Reactor.

chuckh · #1 09/18/2007, 10:50 PM

i cant get the nitrates down to 0ppm, they range between 10-20ppm on 2 different test kits one being salifert so i decided to build this. i think it came out nice. lets hope it works. Now to clean up the kitchen before my wife gets home.

tmz · #2 09/18/2007, 11:53 PM

Hi Chuck,
I can make out the pvc drain and clearout plug but what did you use for the tube(material, Size)?
Tom

redrider911 · #3 09/19/2007, 05:51 AM

My nitrates are crazy high as well. I'm interested in this. Can you give details on how you built it? How does it remove trates? And after its been running, how well it removed the trates.
Thanks, Chris

chuckh · #4 09/19/2007, 06:17 AM

The cylinder is 4 inch clear pvc, my buddy got it for me at work. you dont need to use clear.

The top is a pvc cap with a plug

the bottom is a cap with a closet flange to plug it and balance it

the tube inside the cylinder is nothing but pre coiled air tube i got at walmart for 9.99 for 24 inches. the have it in the automotive section. its the stuff mechanics use for their air tools.

inside the cylinder between the coils are bio balls.

here is the link to the DIY plans. I went to a guys house in Cleveland and he had one said it worked great. he was having a nitrate prob on his tanks and said it worked wonders. he paid 300 bucks for his. it looked way to easy to build. mine cost me about 25 bucks. but i didnt have to pay for the cylinder because a buddy got it from his work.

there is 2 links. same guys plans he just modified them. i used the first link (modified)

http://saltaquarium.about.com/librar...itratornew.htm

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/pro...coildenitr.htm

enjoy
chuck

LFS_worker · #5 09/19/2007, 07:01 AM

you may want to paint the clear chamber black as no light gets into the chamber and grows algae thus not doing the job as you are seeking

looks really good ! how much hosing is in the chamber?

Brian

chuckh · #6 09/19/2007, 07:34 AM

20 inches of hose in the chamber. stretched out i think its walmart sells it in 24 inch pack, i just cut the copper ends off.

the reactor will be sitting in my sump cabinet so it wont see the light. thanks for the advice though i will have to remember that if i do see algae.

Chuck

josh.vince · #7 09/19/2007, 08:24 AM

what size airline tubing are you using on the output side?

also - do you mean 20 feet of hose, not 20 inches?

SkiFletch · #8 09/19/2007, 08:29 AM

Seems easy enough, and now I'll even have a use for all those old bioballs I have

chuckh · #9 09/19/2007, 10:08 AM

1/4 inch hose on the outside.

when i say 20 inches i was giving you the measurements on how tall it was. i think its 50 feet if you uncoil it.

here is the hose i bought only i got it at walmart for 9.99

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/...roducts_id=437

josh.vince · #10 09/19/2007, 10:24 AM

are both the inlet and outlet tube the same size (1/4" ID)?

just asking because in the pic the inlet tube looks bigger (and i can see on it that it is 3/8" OD - 1/4" ID)

tmz · #11 09/19/2007, 01:01 PM

Chuck, Does the input water line connect to the coil to run water through it or does it just flow into the canister for gravity to move it through the air hose?

chuckh · #12 09/19/2007, 02:17 PM

Josh

The inlet tube is bigger because im using a maxijet as a pump. im sure if you used a small pump and got some adapters you could use smaller hose.

tmz

the input water line connects to the coil... flows down the yellow tube to the end and then fills up the chamber. when the chamber gets full it comes out the top.

josh.vince · #13 09/19/2007, 02:20 PM

i planned on using a maxijet also. i see that you adapt it down to 1/4" ID tubing.

i was curious what size the outlet tube it? is it also 1/4" ID?

chuckh · #14 09/19/2007, 03:12 PM

not sure i just had some 1/4 tube laying around so i used that. i know its 1/4 inch just not sure on if its inside or out.

Chuck

redrider911 · #15 09/19/2007, 04:46 PM

Does anyone have extra bio balls they want to get rid of (sell me).

Chuck, how much flow do you have through it. The link you gave said something about the drip rate?

redrider911 · #16 09/19/2007, 06:32 PM

Oh, and when I first started researching before I bought my first tank the general rule was to NOT use bioballs because it leads to INCREASED nitrates. Does the reactor need to be cleaned every week so that it does not happen?

chuckh · #17 09/19/2007, 07:14 PM

they say steady drip rate, what ever that is. mine just drips kinda fast not running out real fast.

i know what you mean by the bio-balls. but if you read both of the links in the first postl he kinda explains why and how it works.

tmz · #18 09/19/2007, 09:34 PM

redrider911, You are right bioballs will create nitrate because they are oxegenated areas. In the denitrater, there are areas in the tube with very little oxyge which allows the nexct level of bacteria to thrive(after the 5 or 6 week break in period) which convert the nitrate to nitrogen.

Chuck Thanks great information,
Tom

redrider911 · #19 09/20/2007, 04:59 AM

Yep, a definite thank you. I'll let everyone know how it works for me.

chuckh · #20 09/20/2007, 06:19 AM

No thank you guys for all the information you have given me over my first year and a half. before we started the erie club this is the only place i came when i had questions.

Chuck

Gary Majchrzak · #21 09/20/2007, 08:33 PM

Hi, Chuck. Let us know how that contraption works on your nitrates, OK?

Did you ever consider reducing nitrates with a DSB in a bucket / remote deep sand bed?

tmz · #22 09/20/2007, 08:47 PM

Gary, I use a 3.5 to4.5 inch sand bed in a 30g breeder which is linked into my system. Same idea as the buckett but I also place a lot of frags on it.

redrider911 · #23 09/20/2007, 09:08 PM

I have everything except the air line. I should have mine up and running sometime next week. I'll post weekly results as well.

bosborn1 · #24 09/20/2007, 09:38 PM

Best way to test it is to take a sample from the tank water then test that. Then take a sample of the reactor effulent. Test that also. You should get a reduction of ATLEAST 1 ppm.

Nice job of the reactor.....but the mainstream gave up on this design awhile ago. Seems like I remember getting a long term colony of denitratifying bacteria was hit or miss. The new fad for denitratifiction is the Sulfphor Denitrators....They seem to work well.

One advantage you get with this design is that its probably hard to crash the tank. I am pretty sure that this design doesn't build up any Hydrogen Sulfphides.

As always its great to see more people enbracing the DIY spirit that makes this hobby truely unique.

Goodluck

chuckh · #25 09/21/2007, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bosborn1
The new fad for denitratifiction is the Sulfphor Denitrators....They seem to work well.

One advantage you get with this design is that its probably hard to crash the tank. I am pretty sure that this design doesn't build up any Hydrogen Sulfphides.

Goodluck

From my reading this will produce the sulfphor, and it will crash your tank if it does. you will be able to smell it and it will occur if the water flow is to slow.

Gary i never tried or read up on the deep sand bed. i will let you know how it works, it should take like 3 weeks or so to go through its cycle. im going to put it on my system sunday after i do all my water changes.

Chuck