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  #1  
Old 07/15/2007, 09:20 PM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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Aquaclear H-70 Mod

I know this has been done before but these things work so well, I think they deserve more attenion.

It seems like a year ago I was cruising The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod at RC. These guys where getting incredible flow from MJ 400, 600, 900 and 1200 pumps, I thought I would look further into the post, then discovered it was like driving through New Mexico, a few cool sights but enough desert already, it was long. Finally I came across a post by a guy called Ball. He mod'ed a AC-70 and he claimed it put out 3000 gph. Being who I am, I had to try this; it sparked my DIY fever and tickled my cheap wallet. 3000 gph for under $50.00, they advertised. I got the stuff and began to build, the shroud was a pain to say the least, I wasted about 6 of those 2" to 1.5" reducers before I figured how to cut the slots with out breaking them off. I used a miter saw in a rather dangerous way and do not want to be responsible for anyone loosing a finger, so this is done at your own risk. I locked the trigger in the on position locked the guard in the up position. I wrapped a piece of tape around the reducer at the large end, and then marked the tape every 3/8 inch, all the way around. I then took the reducer over to my table saw and set the fence about 1/16 inch from the blade and the blade about 1/16 inch high. I then put the big edge against the fence and moved it over the blade, then rotated the reducer until I had a slot all the way around the base of the reducer. I then took it to the miter saw and began cutting it on each mark, it helps if you do not cut the big end at the opening, I had to start on the large part and cut through to the shoulder. This takes some practice and is DANGEROUS, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE BLADE. I cut two blade thicknesses at each mark. After the reducer is cut then I used a Dremel tool to remove enough of that base grove to allow the tabs on the AC to clear. This will allow the reducer to be lowered to the base of the pump and turned to lock. As for the shaft for the prop, I got a cheep plastic pen and some ro hose, I cut the pen so it was high enough to mount to the impeller magnet and the prop would be about 1/4 inch from the edge of the top of the reducer. I also cut a slot to fit the key on the impeller magnet. I inserted the ro hose into the pen and glued it with super glue. I then purchased a Sidewinder 1.5 x 1.5" prop from Great Planes Hobby, Part number GBMB 1090. I drilled it to accept a #8 nylon screw from Home Depot. I then glued the prop to the screw and the screw to the ro tubing. Check the rotation before you glue, assemble and test first. I then glued the prop shaft assembly to the magnet. You may have a problem with the rotation if so then you will need drill the side of the coupler just above the prop and insert a piece of ridged tubing to act as a stop. Put it together and let her roll.

Here are a few pics.






Oh yea, these little guys move water, allot of water. I do not know if it is 3000 gph, but they will raise the water in a 5 gallon bucket about 3 inches, with a 8 inch spread.
My display is a standard 210G rr tank. There is so much flow in my tank that no diatom stays on the sand and the pumps are at the top of the tank.
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Last edited by dngspot; 07/15/2007 at 09:26 PM.
  #2  
Old 07/17/2007, 12:36 PM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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My pumps locked up after 8 hours of operation. The blades where out of balance. I changed the impeller magnets and shortened the shafts. I also balanced the props and they have been running for 24 hours and look very smooth.
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  #3  
Old 07/18/2007, 05:31 AM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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This is how I have installed them. I just simply glued the suction frame to the back of the pumps. As soon as I get time to swing by Lustercraft I will be making adjustable mounts.

I am going to have to raise one of the pumps; it is making a hole at the other end of my 210g tank. The hole is at the other end of the tank near the side glass.

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  #4  
Old 07/18/2007, 06:55 AM
Ewan Ewan is offline
lift it up tallways
 
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Nice mod!

I think these pumps are ideal for the propeller mod because of the fixed shaft.

dngspot, doesn't that anemone make you nervous near that pump?
  #5  
Old 07/18/2007, 08:45 AM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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The distance is misleading. He is about 6 inches when he is at his biggest. That is the pump that needs to be moved, I will be moving it this afternoon.
I think it is pretty cool that they have enough power to dig a hole in sand on the othe rside of a 6 foot tank.
Thanks
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  #6  
Old 07/18/2007, 11:00 AM
rishma rishma is offline
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I have some new in box AC70's that I am planning to sell. PM if interested.
  #7  
Old 08/07/2007, 10:10 AM
stolaas stolaas is offline
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Is the AC 50 the same size as the AC70? I have a 1.5in black pipe (sewer line) cupling that I may use. I didnt know how to get the 2"-1.5" reducer to work and fit in the little hooks.
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  #8  
Old 08/07/2007, 12:42 PM
Big Boy69 Big Boy69 is offline
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PM sent.

Very nice
  #9  
Old 08/07/2007, 12:59 PM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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Take the reducer to a table saw and set the blade to 1/8 inch and the fence to 1/8 inch. Then rotate the big end of the reducer over the blade and against the fence. This should put a grove around the reducer. Then cut the out side edge of the grove so the "little hooks" fit. Then twist and you have a shroud.
I think the ac 50 will accept the same shroud as the ac 70.
It may take a couple of tries befor you get it right.
Good luck
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  #10  
Old 08/08/2007, 09:18 AM
stolaas stolaas is offline
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My AC 50 mod. I used a black ABS 1.5" cupling to make the housing. Some use the 2-1.5 reducer for the AC 70 but that one must be a lot bigger.

Here are some pictures, They work great and are silent. The key was keeping the prop pretty close to the top and of course as stiff as possible. I used hard airline tubing like my maxi mods but to keep everything together I used semihard water tubing from lowes instead of the soft tubing which made it go wild and wouldnt stay straight.

With these extra pumps Im now pushing 43X turnover, well see how it effects everything. By the way, I do have a bare bottom so I have them pointed staight down.




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  #11  
Old 08/08/2007, 10:12 AM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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I am glad all worked out for you. What type of prop did you use?
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  #12  
Old 08/08/2007, 11:28 AM
stolaas stolaas is offline
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I am not really sure what kind it is. I got them at a local hobby shop, they are called "Wave Rocket" props. They are about the same size as the props used in my maxijet mods. The pitch I am not sure of because it didn't say it on the package.
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  #13  
Old 08/08/2007, 01:16 PM
Big Boy69 Big Boy69 is offline
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dngspot - did you ever think about doing a dual prop setup?

Also, can the 50 or 70 be run off of the Seio controller?
  #14  
Old 08/08/2007, 01:35 PM
dhnguyen dhnguyen is offline
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Re: Aquaclear H-70 Mod

Quote:
Originally posted by dngspot
...

...

Unless I am seeing this wrong, your propeller appears to be backwards
  #15  
Old 08/08/2007, 02:08 PM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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You are right in that pic it does look like it is on backward. It is the same prop and shaft in the third pic. The straight edge is facing outward and the pump turns counter clockwise when looking at the prop from the outside of the shroud.
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  #16  
Old 08/08/2007, 02:22 PM
miwoodar miwoodar is offline
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I just picked up a couple of used AC70's from a friend and was considering streaming them. What about spin direction? How do you ensure they turn the right way? I don't see a stopper on your prop, no?
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  #17  
Old 08/08/2007, 02:28 PM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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My pumps run the same directions 90% of the time. They are on all of the time so I have not installed stoppers. I did make one shroud with a stopper. I used ridged tubing, drilled a hole smaller than the tubing and pressed the tubing through it. I have modded my shrouds since then and have not installed the stopper.
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  #18  
Old 08/08/2007, 02:42 PM
miwoodar miwoodar is offline
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What happens when the power blips or you need to go on vacation?
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  #19  
Old 08/08/2007, 08:00 PM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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I have lost power and have had no problem. Vacation, will be addressed before we go.
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  #20  
Old 08/09/2007, 03:16 PM
miwoodar miwoodar is offline
I like sticks in my tank
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by dngspot
My pumps run the same directions 90% of the time.
I just wanted to point out for anyone else who is considering doing this...it's 50/50 which way the motor will turn. For the time and money you have invested in your tank, you should add a stopper so the prop turns the right way 100% of the time.

Nice shroud dngspot - mine will look very similar when I get them done.
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  #21  
Old 08/09/2007, 03:43 PM
stolaas stolaas is offline
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A stopper will be really easy to add. I am going to put some on mine, just havnt done it yet. A rigged airline tubing is all thats needed. Just drill a whole at the bottom of the shroud and put it in. Another person in another thread said if you use a large enough prop that when is spins the wrong way it is jump out enough that it will reset itself.
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  #22  
Old 08/09/2007, 03:55 PM
miwoodar miwoodar is offline
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My MJ Mod props would jump right out of the shroud if they didn't have a guard and stopper to keep them in. Just a 1/2 second power blip is all it would take.
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  #23  
Old 08/10/2007, 09:58 AM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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AC 70 mod props pull the shaft assembly out but not enough for it to leave the motor housing. They will run backward. This is true with my mods.
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  #24  
Old 08/29/2007, 09:04 AM
Big Boy69 Big Boy69 is offline
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TTT
  #25  
Old 08/29/2007, 10:13 AM
dngspot dngspot is offline
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What is TTT?
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