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#1
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Drill plan for new 90
Hi Guys:
All recommendations are welcome for my drill pattern for the new 90 gal. What I was thinking was to build the closed loop intakes into the overflow areas. My plan is for all holes to be 1". The grey area is where the corner overflow boxes will be. Do any of you guys have ideas? How does my plan look? I think it makes sense but am new to the big tanks so I am not sure how flow will be affected. I would attach those flexible ball socket things for the returns so I can point them anywhere. Also are the bulk heads and nets on this page ok?: Drs Foster and Smith Bulk Heads ![]() Thank you guys for any input! Keri
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#2
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You may want to place some of the returns towards the front that can blow towards the back. Kinda like this.
[IMG] ![]() Have Scott order you some bulkheads. He can probably get them for you at a cheaper price. |
#3
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Thanks! Will it work without hanging pieces over the top? I wanted to keep it simple, and at this point am not going to do any hard corals. Maybe 2 more holes?......
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#4
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you could always wrap around the side, depends on your display goal though. Maybe run the plumbing underneath and then up (would require a stronger pump as it would add head pressure).
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~J |
#5
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Looks goooddddd to me LMK if you need eney help and i have the rest of the stand for you
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#6
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Quote:
Keri, I have two returns coming in the back and one that goes up over the top and points back to the rear from the front. All it took was two 90* fittings and some line loc. |
#7
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ooooh line loc....
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~J |
#8
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line loc, isn't that what you put on a drag car so you can do burnouts easier?
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People without reef tanks are so smart! Listen to them and you will learn so so much..... |
#9
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Keri, what I see with a lot of tanks in this size range is too many holes drilled. You have 4 holes for the closed loop and maybe the sump returns? Anyway depending on what pump you use that may not be needed especially for a 90.
I'd do 2 holes and go with a larger pipe like 1.25" or 1.5" if you have a large pump like a dart or larger and then "tee" it on the inside so you effectively get 4 outlets. Make sense? it wont look so cluttered. Drill them high up also, no need to have them lower because the loc line will let you drop the nozzles down if needed. I don't like closed loops I prefer my Tunzes over all the plumbing and room needed for pipes and large external pumps and all that but it does offer a little cleaner look and is slightly cheaper to do a CL even with all the ball valves and stuff. The powerheads are fast to install and a lot easier. Chris oh and I forgot to add...............you show the Closed Loop bulks in the overflows, they have to be drilled into the tank not the overflow.
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People without reef tanks are so smart! Listen to them and you will learn so so much..... |
#10
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Quote:
Kerri, one thing I just noticed from you pic is you have 4 returns and only 2 intakes. What happens if you have too little intake and more return is you get cavitation in the pump, causing lots of microbubbles. You need to make sure that you have equal to or more than going into the pump vs. coming out. I would go with just 1 over flow box and save room in the tank. I have one that Eric D made that is 1/3 the depth of the tank. The inlet to the sump is 1" and my 1150 gph is pretty much full force pushing the return over the top and back into the tank. The overflow could be a little bigger but it works fine. Last edited by murfman; 08/07/2007 at 07:45 PM. |
#11
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Also it is not a good idea to put the CL intakes into the overflow boxes, it can make the overflows very loud and and may be more flow then they can handle.
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#12
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Thanks for the advice guys! I didn't even think that having the intake for the closed loop in the overflow box would be not good. If I do the closed loop I am going to move the intake out of the overflow box(es) and make it a 2" in the center of the tank.
I am starting to re-think the closed loop though. I saw the Tunze powerhead on my friend's tank and think I may just go that route instead. The tank will be in my livingroom and I just don't want all the plumbing all over the place. This is what I want: ![]()
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I didn't think a hobby could put me in the poorhouse! :-) Last edited by keri2000; 08/09/2007 at 10:45 AM. |
#13
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Thats the nano stream right? yeah 1 small tunze can put out as much as a whole closed loop and you dont have to swiss cheese the tank. I'd start with that little guy and if you need another its so easy to add them. you can always put a larger pump on the sump return line and have 2 returns there also and I bet you'll have plenty for a 90 lps tank easilly.
C
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People without reef tanks are so smart! Listen to them and you will learn so so much..... |
#14
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The nano streams are nice. I am planning on modding 2 MJ 1200's and adding them into my 120 with the 2 Vortech MP40's. The MJ's will drop down behind my islands and point upward to keep flow moving behing the islands. The modded MJ's put out 2000+GPH and the kit cost $25+ shipping. You just need to get the MJ1200's.
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