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  #1  
Old 07/29/2007, 03:04 PM
factorybacking factorybacking is offline
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Stand Build Questions

Alright, i recently purchased a 130 gallon glass tank. I'm going to be building the stand for it, i made this design and want to get some suggestions on how you guys think it'll hold up to all the weight, the darker wood in the pictures are 4x4s, the lighter the wood are the 2x4s. This will just be the frame for it. I also have to make sure i can fit my 55 gallon sump underneath. Any suggestions would be great! Thanks





  #2  
Old 07/29/2007, 03:41 PM
dc_909 dc_909 is offline
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From what I have read, it seems that people like to use 2 2x4s together in place of 4x4s. Something to do with the 4x4s twisting??
  #3  
Old 07/29/2007, 04:30 PM
SteveOhh SteveOhh is offline
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^^What he said^^^

I'd double up the 2 x 4's in the corners.............but make sure you fasten the 2 x 4's to each other also. No need for the 4 x 4's on top or bottom either................Flip the 2 x 4's the other direction & they'll serve the same purpose, although 3 across the top & bottom will be fine....4 is overkill.........
  #4  
Old 07/29/2007, 04:40 PM
Scissorhand Scissorhand is offline
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yah...

seems like overkill in some places...

but very nicely designed.
  #5  
Old 07/29/2007, 04:47 PM
factorybacking factorybacking is offline
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Thanks for all the suggestions, i'll get to redesigning it later on today and post more pictures. Yeah that was my idea to go over-kill at first so i could get as many thoughts on it as possible for the redesign, plus the tank is glass and is going to have roughly 150+ lbs of live rock, 2" bed of live sand. So get rid of all the 4x4s and just put 2x4s together in their spot correct? I've built a stand before for my old 60 gallon, and i have a problem after about a year it started to lean, so i'm trying to build it the best way possible as i don't plan on having to rebuild a stand every year

Also, if you look at the corners of the 4x4s, they would be cut out to have the 2x4s "inserted", sense i am replacing the 4x4s with doubled 2x4s would the same concept be possible? Or would that lead to a weaker hold?
  #6  
Old 07/29/2007, 05:26 PM
SteveOhh SteveOhh is offline
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As long as you fasten the 2 x 4's together (using wood screws or nails), the hold would be just as strong, but more importantly, less prone to bowing..............the bigger a piece of wood is, the more prone it is to bow or warp, especially if it's wet...........
  #7  
Old 07/29/2007, 05:36 PM
factorybacking factorybacking is offline
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Ah i see, very good information, thank you.
  #8  
Old 07/29/2007, 05:48 PM
SteveOhh SteveOhh is offline
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Once we installed a soild header (4 x 12 x 160 & before we could get the drywall up the next weekend, the wood had bowed. We removed it & replaced it w/ a p-lam piece (laminated wood kinda like plywood) & to this day, it's as straight as an arrow...........

You might consider having a steel or aluminum stand made & "wrapping" it w/ wood panels................You'll have a lot more room in the corners of the stand.............Contact John (jj81speed) here.....he's made many metal stands for members here & they are all first class................

Something else to consider.....
  #9  
Old 07/29/2007, 06:10 PM
factorybacking factorybacking is offline
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Hmm good idea, might have to look into that, thanks.
  #10  
Old 07/29/2007, 07:01 PM
Frankysreef Frankysreef is offline
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check my gallery for pictures of my stand built using 2x4's
  #11  
Old 07/29/2007, 08:58 PM
factorybacking factorybacking is offline
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Very nice, basically the same style for the frame i was going after, do you plan on keeping it open like that? Or covering it with the plywood and such?
  #12  
Old 07/29/2007, 11:48 PM
Bebo77 Bebo77 is offline
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i agree if possible try and have a steel stand made...
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Want to see my tank? click on my Red House..
  #13  
Old 07/31/2007, 12:53 PM
Frankysreef Frankysreef is offline
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  #14  
Old 07/31/2007, 12:53 PM
Frankysreef Frankysreef is offline
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  #15  
Old 07/31/2007, 12:55 PM
Frankysreef Frankysreef is offline
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I used mostly solid oak. Finished it with a mahogany finish. Made all the doors, bookshelves, cabinets... It took 6 mos.
  #16  
Old 07/31/2007, 01:25 PM
jjb81speed jjb81speed is offline
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NICE!!!
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  #17  
Old 07/31/2007, 02:42 PM
factorybacking factorybacking is offline
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Very nice, thank you for the finishing picture of yours, that gives me hope. I hope mine will turn out as nice as yours.
  #18  
Old 07/31/2007, 03:41 PM
Frankysreef Frankysreef is offline
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make sure you have a tablesaw, or something that can make super accurate cuts.

Routers dont hurt for nice finish work.

I bought my craftsman 10" table saw off the recycler for $150.00 blades cost 50-80 bucks.

Cutting oak will burn a blade pretty fast too, but the end results were very nice.
  #19  
Old 07/31/2007, 03:54 PM
factorybacking factorybacking is offline
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Thanks for the heads up, i got a table saw already so i'm set on that, when placing the plywood over the 2x4s, how did you connect them? Also, if you used screws/nails, how did you go about covering them up? In the end i don't want any screws/nails to be seen.
  #20  
Old 07/31/2007, 07:35 PM
rkcca rkcca is offline
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I glue the plywood to the 2X4's and then use finish nails and wood putty.


Sand the putty and you are ready for stain or paint.
  #21  
Old 07/31/2007, 08:18 PM
Frankysreef Frankysreef is offline
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I would buy some indoor outdoor carpeting at HD and use it as a pad. where the tank goes.

You want to make a cover using some type of luann or hardwood plywood using finish nails and sink them and use wood putty to cover them.

I used solid oak to make a frame where my doors are.
  #22  
Old 07/31/2007, 08:28 PM
factorybacking factorybacking is offline
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Thanks!
 


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