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#1
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Now I"ve done it!
I have a 46 gal bowfront with about 45 lbs of live rock. I had an Ich outbreak and did a lot of reading. Since I have a couple of anemones (I have a Condy and a rose), treating the whole tank with copper is out. I kept reading that if we made sure everyone in the tank was super well fed, the fish should kick it themselves. The problem with this being that I've way overdone it and caused my tank to spike. All 3 of the big no no's are, or have been present. I did a 20% water change and as of now my levels are this:
Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0.25 Nitrate: 20 I've also noticed the tank clouding up, so I'm pretty sure that I'm having a full blown cycle. I'm pretty sure that it's a bacteria bloom. My question is this: should I do another water change today, or keep an eye on it and let it level out on its own? I guess it would also be pertinent to add that I have a wet/dry filter that I've been slowly taking the Bio-Balls out. I should have enough LR to sustain the system, but I knew that new bacteria would have to build in the system from the removal of the bio-balls. Thanks for your advice and info! |
#2
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what did you overdone your tank with ? feeding ?
best way is add carbon, change water, run wet skimate and keep your eyes on the anemome.
__________________
"Every friend that I've had, practically, has wanted to borrow money or something and of course, once they borrow money from you, you can't be friends anymore." |
#3
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Try soaking your food with garlic or something like selcon (sp?) Don't overfeed though it will cause all of your numbers to spike (nitrite, nitrate, ammonia, and phosphates). Maybe smaller more frequent water changes. May be try doing 10% every couple days for a week. Then test again or test daily. But the garlic extract should help. Hope it works out for you.
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#4
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Not so much overdose, just overfed. I'm feeding a combination of different things: Nori, Rod's Food, Mysis and some formula 1. I've also mixed in some freshly cut up garlic (which I've read is supposed to help). Now I'm feeding much more lightly.
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#5
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no matter how well fed, your fish will never kick ick
ick stays in the tank - while healthier fish will fend off the effects of ick better, the only true way to get rid of ick is to break the lifecycle of the parasite. this includes removing all fish from the display tank, treating them with a copper based medication and letting the display tank go fallow for 6-8 weeks I battled ick off and on for over a year, at one point I thought it was all gone, only for it to come back in full force. The above method was the only way I was able to beat it.
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Click the red house to see tank pics and my blog and to get the link for my RC tank thread! |
#6
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hypo works wonders.........
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#7
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Quote:
hypo only makes the parasite on the fish drop off - and there is some debate as to actually how effective hypo is.
__________________
Click the red house to see tank pics and my blog and to get the link for my RC tank thread! |
#8
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This is all great info, but what I really need to know right now is should I do another water change? Will it hurt anything if I do?
Thanks again! |
#9
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doing water change won't hurt anything
it won't help get rid of ick - but it won't hurt anything
__________________
Click the red house to see tank pics and my blog and to get the link for my RC tank thread! |
#10
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Awesome! Thanks a ton. At this point I'm trying to tackle one problem at a time, and since the water is so borked, it's top priority!
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#11
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if the two anemomes are the only inverts your worried about see if you LFS will give you credit for them....
__________________
Joined the navy to see the world...but i forgot that 70% of the world was water...well now I've seen a lot of that! |
#12
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Quote:
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#13
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ich - the treatment of ich and the myths of ich have been covered on this forum site ad naseum
here are just a few links that I found by looking thru my history: Thread 1 Thread 2 Thread 3 thread 4 the mother of all Ich threads from the Fish Disease forum My own thread discusses Ich treatment as well I hope this helps.
__________________
Click the red house to see tank pics and my blog and to get the link for my RC tank thread! |
#14
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Quote:
If you have inverts or coral in the tank, going on hypo on the whole display tank is not an option.
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Click the red house to see tank pics and my blog and to get the link for my RC tank thread! |
#15
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i have done hypo on my dt by taking out all inverts and live rock. i let the rock site for 6 weeks and after that icks life cycle dies with out having a host. and at 1.009ppm the ick will drop off after 4-6 weeks. it worked for me and i dont really believe it to be a temp fix. i plan on preforming hypo on every fish i get from now on and i believe that i wont get ick in my dt again this way.
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#16
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Quote:
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Click the red house to see tank pics and my blog and to get the link for my RC tank thread! |
#17
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but if you treat all your fish with hypo, and your whole system is fish free for 4-6 weeks, there will never be ick in your system. and thats what i did, so i should never experience ick again so long as i hypo every fish i put into my tank
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#18
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Quote:
since you are letting your display tank go fallow.
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Click the red house to see tank pics and my blog and to get the link for my RC tank thread! |
#19
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I agree with Druce, treat the fish in QT and let your tanks go fallow for 4+ weeks.
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R.A.S.O.C. : Reef Aquarium Society of Charlotte |
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