My DIY 2 part additive doser!

[Mr Bojangles]

Well I have read alot about these and no one has ever made one and ever had any pics besides the diagram and the $120 one that doses B-ionic. Mine cost about $20 for the airpump, timer and fruit punch I am dosing my DIY 2part additive that Randy made, 80ml 2 times a day since my kalk reactor cant keep up. So we will see how she goes.

[david8956]

You know we are going to need details on how to build one

[Mr Bojangles]

sure thing, just give me a lil bit to make a diagram, it will be easier the understand that way

[Mr Bojangles]

Ok here is the diagram, any questions just ask.

[CodeToad]

Hey, slick idea, good job! Where did you get the little grommets for the airline tubing?

[Mr Bojangles]

I got them from my local hardware store, there for running wires threw sheet metal.

[kenny77]

can you explain how does it work for dummies like me. i havent sleep so i dont get it.

[dink43k]

Do you have anything attached to the top of tube C besides the air pump? I have tried the same setup and it seems as though there is no where for the air to go after the airpump is turned off. Thus the vacumn never starts back up again. It would be great if you could post more pics and explain a little bit more.

Thanks

Steve

[Mr Bojangles]

just the sir pump is on tube C. You are right though, if there is a check valve or something else in they way, there is no where for the air to go. Ill try to take some more pics for ya

[Stile2]

After the air pump turns off won't the extra air in the system just flow back through the air pump?

Will air flow backwards through an air pump?

[dink43k]

See I thought that air won't flow back through the air pump. Maybe you need a special kind. I went to pets mart and tried blowing into the three they had there and I couldn't get any air to go into it. Maybe I just don't know what I am doing.

[Mr Bojangles]

well I have used 2 different brands of air pumps and they both let air back, not much, but enough. Oh and you have to set the air pump up high so when the water levels out, its far away from the pump

[david8956]

Maybe the air isn't backing up through the pump. Sounds like what may be happening is the air is compressed inside tube C by the force of the water rising to level out. This would require the pump be high enough above the static water level for the air to have enough room to compress with the little bit of force the water is exerting.

dink43k - try using more air line coming out of the pump (tube C)and see if that makes the difference.

[swhastan]

I'd like to take your idea. Can I ask several question?
1) What capacity of air pump are you using?

2) What kind of electric timer are you using? Digital type?

3) How much time setting in a timer are you using?

[shelburn61]

If the air can flow back out through the airpump, what keeps the liquid level in the airtight containers at that level?

[klondar]

Alot of newer pumps have check valves built in, older pumps likely don't and thus the diffrence. to solve the problem another tee right at the pump with a reversed check valve so that it stops air from escaping but whe its time for the vaccum it allows air in.

[Stile2]

Shelburn,

When the air goes back through the pump, new liquid from the top bottle comes in the lower bottle, when the liquid gets to the bottom of the air tube everything stops.

Keith

[Stile2]

Actually I'm wrong, when the liquid gets to the level of the big bottle everything stops.

Sorry tired.

Keith

[cspark]

Good idea, but i'd like to point out the some problem it might have.

Some of component of the 2-part forms white deposit when the solution exposed to air. You probably see those on the mouth of the 2part bottle. These deposit can be dissoved back to the solution, but it is not always true.
That means there will be the possiblity that the tubings or check valve might be clogged by the white deposit if you run this for the long period time.

[Mr Bojangles]

Originally posted by cspark
Good idea, but i'd like to point out the some problem it might have.

Some of component of the 2-part forms white deposit when the solution exposed to air. You probably see those on the mouth of the 2part bottle. These deposit can be dissoved back to the solution, but it is not always true.
That means there will be the possiblity that the tubings or check valve might be clogged by the white deposit if you run this for the long period time.

well Ive been using this since I have set it up and yes it is true that there is a white deposit, but I dont have the tubes on the bottom of the tanks, so it is not drawn into the tubeing.

[vic8361]

Mr Bojangles,
Why is the check valve needed on tube B

Thanks,
Vic

[fishtk75]

Here is there plans see how they have there valves
http://www.esvco.com/prod9.html

vic8361
I do not know too it is not like there setup to let the air out to fill the bottles they have a air vent/seperator then a check valve on top.
I would do is what Mr Bojangles did is were the A tube goes in not like ESV did from the bottom and suck all the chalk that settles to the bottom.

Mr Bojangles

Where did you get the two small bottles?

RC Moderater

(Moderated person in charge of this forum) can they add this to the DIY List on the home page?

[6Speed]

Info on the DIY 2 part additive?

[Mr Bojangles]

Ok, sorry bout the delay! The 2nd checkvalve keeps the aire from retuning to the bottle when the pump is off, otherwise there would be a gurgle effect and the cup would keep filling.

also I got the cups from a local hardware store that sells odd things, but I have seen other types of bottles that will work well like the small water bottles or any thing with a sealable lid.

The DIY 2 part is a Randy Holmes (sp) formula you can find on the reef chemisty section, but its basicaly calcium chloride and bakeing soda

[pangea]

Mr Bojangles,
I assume you are dosing the 2 parts at the same time 2x per day. Any probs with precipitation? And as the main holding vessle empties, will the ml dose change.
Great idea thanks for posting and pics.