Reef Central Online Community

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community Archives > Special Interest Group (SIG) Forums > Nano Reefs

 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12/24/2007, 03:08 PM
20yrs90gal 20yrs90gal is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 13
Nano vs. 90gal

I'm traveling way more than I have in the past and I'm gone 3-4 days a week now. My 90 gallon is suffering significantly from lack of attention - I know the problem/problems, just don't have time for maintenance. Also, I only feed once/twice/week due to schedule.

Does anyone know if the Nano would require much less maintenance like everyone says?

How long can you go without water changes on Nanos if fish are kept to bare minimum?
  #2  
Old 12/24/2007, 03:17 PM
stevelkaneval stevelkaneval is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: oshkosh wisconsin
Posts: 477
who cares ill trade you my 20 for your 90 straght up. haha
__________________
I belong to reefahaulics annonymus. "My name is Steve and im an addict."
  #3  
Old 12/24/2007, 03:24 PM
zma21 zma21 is offline
Zoa Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 1,064
I keep one fish in my NC12, and I change water every two weeks.

I only change it every two weeks to restore some trace elements for my zoa's and trumpets.

I hand feed him, so I control the nutrition going in, and honestly if I wanted to i'm sure i could go for a month or two without changing the water if i wanted to.
  #4  
Old 12/24/2007, 03:34 PM
20yrs90gal 20yrs90gal is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 13
Thanks,

But I was thinking - maybe 3 months w/o water changes. . . That's what my 90g is now suffering from

I read somewhere on a thread that they didn't change their Nano at all, just added RO when needed and a few trace elements.

I've tried that over the years with my larger tanks and never had any success - always have had to do water changes to keep corals healthy.

I guess I'm answering my own question - - - lol - - - just in denial
  #5  
Old 12/24/2007, 04:01 PM
johno4 johno4 is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,143
I havent changed the water in my tank for years, I just top it off (with tap water). I dose B-ionic once a week thats it. As far as your feeding schedule, why not get an automatic feeder? I would think a 90 would leave more room for error than in a 20.
__________________
Remember, nothing says 'good job' like a firm, open-palm slap on the behind.
  #6  
Old 12/24/2007, 07:18 PM
brandon7491 brandon7491 is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: tampa,fl
Posts: 305
tap water? can u show us a pic of ur tank
  #7  
Old 12/24/2007, 07:38 PM
chem-e chem-e is offline
Reef Ready
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 883
I'm on the road pretty often as well and I haven't had too many problems. I think my success is keeping the system simple and putting everything on timers or making things automated. Of course the lights are on timers, but my topoff is also automatic. I just need to make sure I fill up my top off reservoir with kalk water and I empty my skimmer cup before a trip.

I also have a small bioload, so I think this also helps me out a little. My tank is mainly corals with three fishies.

I would think that having a smaller tank would be even tougher because of the smaller system volume.
__________________
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy."
~ Benjamin Franklin
  #8  
Old 12/24/2007, 07:42 PM
m2434 m2434 is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Boston, Ma
Posts: 1,119
My 20g is WAY more work than my 75...
__________________
Some people say, "How can you live without knowing?" I do not know what they mean. I always live without knowing. That is easy. How you get to know is what I want to know. - Richard Feynman
  #9  
Old 12/24/2007, 08:35 PM
Laddy Laddy is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: California
Posts: 59
Ya it really has to do with a number of factors on how long you can leave a tank unsupervised, however, in general the smaller you go, the more work they become and the less time you can be away from regular maintenance.

This is for a number of factors, also. Mainly due to the volume of water you're working with......also the fact that nano tank support (i.e. hardware manufatured in mass) is a fraction of output by the industry.
__________________
It's not the big things which lead to failure in this hobby, it's the small things
  #10  
Old 12/24/2007, 08:45 PM
Michael L. Michael L. is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Nanaimo B.C. Canada
Posts: 78
Smaller= harder. Things go wrong so much faster when there is less water. Can you give us some info on your 90 gallon and someone can advise on how to make it manageable.
  #11  
Old 12/24/2007, 09:01 PM
Laddy Laddy is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: California
Posts: 59
If you do have a 90, go to the Reef Tank section and post a "automation" type email, which would give you suggetions on how to automate some of your routine while you are away.
__________________
It's not the big things which lead to failure in this hobby, it's the small things
  #12  
Old 12/24/2007, 09:31 PM
20yrs90gal 20yrs90gal is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 13
THanks everyone, I'll go to the reef section. I thought smaller was harder -- but you can always dream for the effortless reef

The 90 gal I have set up is follows:

90gal with stand/canopy
Canopy has 4x110w VHO 2 actinic, 2 white, set to 8 hrs/day
auto top off using a slow pump and a 5 gal bucket to pull from
about 125-150 lbs live rock, substrait is crushed coral
some lps, leather coral (most coral dead now)
Blue tang, damsel, royal gramma, one pseudo; 2 clowns (ocellarious);

Running an old Amirical Wet/dry with skimmer (rarely runs since I'm using RIO 800 and they always lock up) External magnum filter; using 1200 GPH external pump split 4 ways, using SQUID wave maker between 2 of them, the third goes directly to tank, the last one goes through regulated flow and a UV filter. 350w stainless "pro heat" heater; 800 gph overflow with air lifter. Finally, have a power auto shut off should water level in wet/dry get too low.
  #13  
Old 12/24/2007, 10:11 PM
Michael L. Michael L. is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Nanaimo B.C. Canada
Posts: 78
It sounds like a decent setup to work with. I would cut down on the fish and only keep the smaller ones and have a good CUC. Then I'd get a new skimmer pump that is reliable enough so you know it is skimming when you want it to. I'd pull out all the wet/dry media and throw a light over it to make a simple refugium with chaeto and 24/7 lighting.

My 90 gallon can go several months (maybe even a year) without a water change and it's seriously overstocked IMO. It's that way because it's not actually my tank, and I just maintain it and operate it for my parents. It is set up as follows:

Lighting: 2X250W 10,000K with 2X96W PC Actinics (Upgraded from 2X150W with same Actinics

Sump: 37 Gallons with 'Fuge (Chaeto and 24 hr. lighting)

Skimmer: CSS 225

Chemical Filtration: Rena XP3 Canister with carbon in all conmpartments, 2X Phosban Reactors with Phosban and Purigen

Live Rock/Sand: 200+ Pounds Rock, 2" Sand Bed

Topoff: JBJ ATO

Livestock: 2 Percula Clowns, 2 Regal Tangs, 1 Yellow Angel, 1 Purple Tang, 1 Mandarin Dragonet

CUC: 5 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 5 Turbo Snails, A Few Small Hermits, 5 Peppermint Shrimp, 5 Glass Shrimp

Corals/Clams/Etc.: Xenia, Open Brain, Galaxy, Zoas, Hammer, toadstool Leather, Clove, Kenya Tree, Some SPS, Other LPS, Crocea Clam, a few Tube Worms, Etc.

Of course it can be done many ways differently, but I've had success with this tank so far and it requires little maintenance (feeding once a week, water change once every few months). The trick I think is the refugium, (wet) overskimming (if that's possible), and all the live rock.
  #14  
Old 12/25/2007, 04:42 PM
20yrs90gal 20yrs90gal is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 13
Thanks Michael,

I'm going to have to read up on refugiums, The wet/dry will be interesting to remove, I have my carbon, phosban and purigen in the wet/dry. I guess I'd have to move those to an external filter?

Do you have a pick of your refugium and your tank? How often do you add trace elements/kalc, etc.?

I saw chem-e put Kalc in his top off tank? Haven't done that, always been afraid of spiking PH, but I guess the top off is doing so little water each fill it would be fine (less than a gallon on a 110+ gal set up (90 gal + 20 gal wet/dry.
  #15  
Old 12/25/2007, 06:03 PM
Michael L. Michael L. is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Nanaimo B.C. Canada
Posts: 78
Quote:
I guess I'd have to move those to an external filter?
Phosban reactors work great for those kinds of media and are supposedly more efficient. They are also cheaper BTW. Two or three of them plumbed together and run by a Maxi-Jet 600 work well.

Quote:
How often do you add trace elements/kalc, etc.?
I never add trace elements. Well, I do once in a while, but not nearly as often as most people do. If I walk past the tank and think "oh I should add some trace to the tank, I'll do it, but that thought doesn't occur that often.

Kalk is added to topoff water at 1/2 tsp. per gallon. My sump has 3 equal compartments and limewater topoff is pumped into the first one so it dilutes. I also have a bit of a recirc. going on the sump. The Rena XP3 intake is placed in the last compartment and the outflow is in the first compartment. That makes about 1/3 of the sump flow go back to the first chamber so when the kalk goes into the tank, it goes in very slowly. You'll also see in the FTS that the locline in the tank isn't pointed at anything living, so if there was a concentrated squirt of kalk, it wouldn't really hit anything.





Sorry about the messy tank. The xenia needs a bit of a trim and everything is a little overharvested for my other tanks.

Last edited by Michael L.; 12/25/2007 at 06:09 PM.
  #16  
Old 12/26/2007, 11:07 PM
20yrs90gal 20yrs90gal is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 13
Very nice!!

Wish mine looked 1/2 that nice. Mine is in seriously bad shape. My reef looks more like your sump than a reef tank.

Maybe I'll get motivated and do a refug like your's, just don't have as much space to work with as I have to stay within what will fit in my stand. so won't have space for both fuge and external filter/s.

I tried to research refug's but the search feature is down tonight. I'll try again later. Still have questions about wet/dry vs. refug.

Thanks much!
  #17  
Old 12/26/2007, 11:57 PM
Helfrich’s Chic Helfrich’s Chic is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: WESTSIIIIIDE
Posts: 641
IMO if your having issues with the 90 you will hate a nano. Nanos are a special breed, and while many of us NRers have very little maintenance schedules the fact is there is MUCH less room for error. In a 90 if you over/under dose a bit you have a large volume of water that will help buffer the mistake. In a nano you have no room for error and things can go bad fast. I think that people say its easier beacuse its cheaper and the WCs are much smaller lol. Just MO HTH.
__________________
The RIC CHICK :D
  #18  
Old 12/27/2007, 12:23 AM
20yrs90gal 20yrs90gal is offline
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 13
Thanks, I'm sold, er rather dissuaded from a nano now. I think the way to go is to add some TLC to my 90g. Going to a refug may be a more long term solution and keep my water changes down. Carrying 20 gallons of water from the garage to the other side of the house is getting really old each month (or rather used to be) - it's been 3 months since I've done a water change.

I've got to maintain the calcium levels better and manage the hair algae better -

I think the refug will solve the algae and the Kalk in the top off might be the solution to the other.
 

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef Central™ Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2009