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  #26  
Old 02/24/2005, 05:06 PM
Rumpshaker Rumpshaker is offline
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I am an EC, older codes allowed for metal conduit to be used with no ground wire. take your tester touch one end to the hot wire and the other to the box. if you get voltage then the box and raceway are properly grounded. all you will need from home depot is a ground tail or a ground clip that attaches a ground wire to the metal box, and the other end to the gfci....

now my opinion..

i never run life supporting equipment for my tanks through a gfci.. only the lighting.. if the gfci trips while im not home no pumps = dead fish and corals..
  #27  
Old 02/24/2005, 05:07 PM
electric eel electric eel is offline
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Location: Rocky Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally posted by integlikewhoa
thanks. I understand ya. Ill have to look where the meter is in my place. I dont pay a water bill so it might be shared. or probley is. Do fuse boxs have to be grounded? I mean no ground wire were ran in the apartment so does there have to be a wire running from a ground rod to the box? Its a old plce or did they no do that back then? Im sure hopeing that i am able to ground striaght to the metal box. So the current woulc travel threw the metal box, threw the metal conduit to the metal fuse box which then has to be hooked to a ground rod right?

Integ your system has to be grounded somewhere. If it is not grounded at the outlets check the panel. If its not grounded at the panel check the meter. Somewhere in the system there is a ground. Once you locate this grounding point all you have to do is insure an intact path through conductive material to your outlet location. *note* here in my area you are required to contact the utility before breaking the seal on a meter base.



Also don was correct in an earlier post. Surge protectors are just what the name implies. They are designed to protect sensitive equipment from sudden spikes. They are NOT protection from electrocution.


and finally....whew... I know nothing about reefkeeping but do know a little about electricity....and I am more than happy to share what I know with anyone needing my help....just remember I am gonna be full of questions about my tank so be prepared to reciprocate

Thanks peeps
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  #28  
Old 02/24/2005, 05:10 PM
Rumpshaker Rumpshaker is offline
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electric eel


do you teach at the jatc??

ibew 323 here
  #29  
Old 02/24/2005, 05:15 PM
integlikewhoa integlikewhoa is offline
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Location: Alhambra, CALI
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thank you very much. I know all my options now and most importantly i understand all this now. Ill take a meter home with me and hope for the best. That would be nice if i didnt have to run ground wires.

Oh one more question how is the breaker box ground work? i asked that question in the last post. Is it required in older home to be grounded? Is it suposed to be run out side to grounding rod?

Thanks JIM
  #30  
Old 02/24/2005, 05:20 PM
electric eel electric eel is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rumpshaker
electric eel


do you teach at the jatc??

ibew 323 here



Hahaha nooo.... think I should apply for the job??

ibew 1141 OKC hey brother
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  #31  
Old 02/24/2005, 05:45 PM
electric eel electric eel is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by integlikewhoa
thank you very much. I know all my options now and most importantly i understand all this now. Ill take a meter home with me and hope for the best. That would be nice if i didnt have to run ground wires.

Oh one more question how is the breaker box ground work? i asked that question in the last post. Is it required in older home to be grounded? Is it suposed to be run out side to grounding rod?

Thanks JIM


Your service should be bonded ( the neutral and ground connected) at the service disconnect. The service disconnect could be the main breaker in your panel in which case it will be bonded there, or a disconnect located near your meter base. In some locales under the old codes, the meter base itself was deemed to constitute the service disconnect. Even if this bonding is in the meter base, you could still have a ground path to the outlet if the raceway (conduit) is metal and continous from the meter through the metal breaker box to the outlet.
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  #32  
Old 02/25/2005, 12:23 AM
integlikewhoa integlikewhoa is offline
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OK GUYS!!! i tested my box and it is grounded. I also got a gfi on the way home so im good to go. Now back to the other problem. I worried about the damn GFI poping and everything on my tank shutting off. Im not in a position to put half on and have not on a GFI. Another thing is can the Freezer trip the GFI even tho its not on the actual wall outlet. It runs off the same breaker. That thing is kickin on and off the whole day. Thanks JIm
  #33  
Old 02/25/2005, 01:44 AM
edsreef edsreef is offline
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integlikewhoa:
Most GFCI receptacles are "feedthrough" types and are labeled with a "line" and "load". Just be sure to wire the power coming into the box to the "line" terminals so that anything being plugged in will be GFCI protected. If there are other wires in the box that go out to feed other receptacles and you don't want those GFCI protected, just twist the hots together and wirenut them with a short lead or "pigtail" going to the "line" side of the GFCI receptacle; same for the neutrals. Wired this way, your freezer won't trip the GFCI receptacle, but if the circuit's overloaded it can still cause your breaker to trip.
On another note: the reason for bonding around a water meter is to ensure a constant path to ground - water meters require occiasonal servicing and replacement and sometimes need to be taken out of the line - the wire maintains the path to ground with the meter removed.
Electric eel's done a good job helping you out; hope this helps him out and saves him some typing!
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  #34  
Old 02/25/2005, 01:55 AM
Pez Vela Pez Vela is offline
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One thing I found with my GFCi outlets was not the safety of electricuting myself (which I do consider when playing around my plugs) but rather the potential problems to the system. Eel can chime in here and confirm, but when one GFCI trips, all of the outlets on the circuit cut out as well. It is for that reason i did not use GFCI outlets on my system. I just made sure they were well hidden form potential water contact. Let's say the outlet where you have a minor piece of equipment gets tripped, then they all go! Lights, circulation pumps, heaters, chillers, skimmers etc..... Now that is a problem. in my opinion.

But I am not an expert, listen to those who play with power on a daily basis. Just my whacky 2ΒΆ

mike
  #35  
Old 02/25/2005, 02:43 AM
integlikewhoa integlikewhoa is offline
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Location: Alhambra, CALI
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thanks for your input. I need to hear some opinons on to use them or not due to the fact it can shut down the whole tanks system. Another thing is im in CALI. I expect blackouts this summer. His is this going to affect my power issues. Is GFI going to trip when everything pops back on?

just for your guys info i belive this is the last plug on the curcit due to the fact that only 2 wires inter the box and no other wires going out to other things.

Thanks for everyones help on getting me to under stand GFI and learning if i can hook it up. I know i can now but my questions now move onto If i want to. Thanks Again JIm
  #36  
Old 02/25/2005, 06:30 AM
electric eel electric eel is offline
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Edsreef pretty much answered these questions and gave excellent advice.

On the back of a GFCI outlet you will find terminals marked "line" and "load".
These terminals are used when you want to provide GFCI protection for multiple outlets without buying multiple GFCI's.
It only works if all the outlets you want to protect are wired into the same circuit. If they are... you must find the first one in the line from your panel. This is where you should install the GFCI.
Using the terminals on the back ... the wires FROM YOUR PANEL go on the line terminals. The wires to the next outlet in the circuit go to the load terminals.
This will protect outlets "downstream" with GFCI protection also.

If you want to isolate the GFCI protection to just the single outlet...you must follow ED's advice.
Make a couple of "pigtails" out of a piece of insulated wire preferably the same guage as the wire in the box.
These are just six inches or so long. Twist one of them together with the hot/hots in the box and connect the other end to the hot side of the line terminals on the GFCI.
Same process with the neutral.
If the outlet that you are installing the GFCI on is at the tail end of the circuit you will only find one hot and one neutral in the box. You can hook these up to the "line" terminals and be done.
Because GFCI's are bulky you need to take extra care when you fold all these wires into the box...that you dont pinch one when you install the GFCI. Take your time and fold the wires into the back of the box as you install.
I am happy to learn you have a good ground at your outlet Integ, you know how obsessed I am about that. lol
Good luck to you


(Pez this might help you with your concerns also )
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