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  #51  
Old 01/11/2007, 06:44 PM
tanya72806 tanya72806 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,123
ok how about these I would like to get the smaller one but LMK what you think and how much flow to put through either one
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...ry_Code=Aquauv
Thanks for all the great info and help
  #52  
Old 01/11/2007, 07:32 PM
REEF-DADDY REEF-DADDY is offline
Coral Killer
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 3,019
Quote:
Originally posted by tanya72806
ok how about these I would like to get the smaller one but LMK what you think and how much flow to put through either one
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...ry_Code=Aquauv
Thanks for all the great info and help
I really like my aqua UV unit. Just make sure you get the one with the wiper, it will really lessen maintaince for you...
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Steve
280 Gallon BB mixed reef
PM bullet 3 powered by a PCX-70,400w HQI Radiums,Tunze Wavebox,AC III
Litermeter III,PCX-70 pushing 2 Eductors,Geo 624 Ca Reactor,125 sump, Dart Return
  #53  
Old 01/11/2007, 07:46 PM
tanya72806 tanya72806 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NYC
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yeah I planed on it lol I just cant figure out how slow of flow to put through it to get it to work its best like the other guy did
  #54  
Old 01/11/2007, 09:14 PM
REEF-DADDY REEF-DADDY is offline
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Location: CT
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For which the 15w? One of your links is the PA home page. I would run no more than 200 through it. I run about 1200 through my 114 on a 400g total system for comparison.
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Steve
280 Gallon BB mixed reef
PM bullet 3 powered by a PCX-70,400w HQI Radiums,Tunze Wavebox,AC III
Litermeter III,PCX-70 pushing 2 Eductors,Geo 624 Ca Reactor,125 sump, Dart Return
  #55  
Old 01/12/2007, 03:05 PM
Stoney Mahony Stoney Mahony is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 988
I have not used tha aqua uv's but the wiper is a great idea and you will probably see that feature on a lot of other models in the future. I would go with a 40-65 watt unit, emporer, current, and from what I have read aqua uv's all are good brands. It might seem a little expensive at first but it's better to buy the right tool for the job the first time rather than having to upgrade later. If your working on a tight budget, it helps to make the body yourself(It's just pvc and fittings ) and just buy the components.
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  #56  
Old 01/12/2007, 04:23 PM
rawbomb rawbomb is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 574
So basically on my 250g plus 70g sump 320 total i would need a 120w or so UV?
  #57  
Old 01/12/2007, 05:22 PM
RichConley RichConley is offline
Flowalicious
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston
Posts: 9,473
Quote:
Originally posted by Stoney Mahony
A common misconception but ich IS NOT always present in water.
Here is a good link with a good explanation of why this is such a misconception:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php
"I want to be clear on this point. I do not believe Cryptocaryon irritans is always present in our systems. With a strict quarantine protocol, it is possible keep an Ich-free aquarium. I just believe that there have been enough hobbyists who have misused a treatment or utilized an ineffective treatment option, such that they never really fully conquered their initial infestation."

The problem is, nobody quarantines EVERYTHING. If you're not quarantining every coral, rock, piece of sand, macro, everything, you're bringing it in.
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  #58  
Old 01/12/2007, 05:25 PM
SDguy SDguy is offline
My reef is my fix :-D
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Originally posted by RichConley
The problem is, nobody quarantines EVERYTHING. If you're not quarantining every coral, rock, piece of sand, macro, everything, you're bringing it in.
Unfortunately, so very true. I once introduced ich from my first reef tank to my fish only tank by giving my tangs macro harvested from my reef. Doh!
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Click my red house to see my tank :-)
  #59  
Old 01/12/2007, 09:19 PM
Stoney Mahony Stoney Mahony is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 988
I agree hardley anybody QT's everything but some let there tanks cycle forever, cook there rock and follow very strict protocol. Many comercial buisnesses also follow very strict procedures b/c the stock is worth so much they cant afford to have any outbreaks or there profits go down the tube. I was just pointing out that if you follow strict QT procedures from the begining of your tank, it is possible.
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  #60  
Old 01/12/2007, 11:59 PM
rawbomb rawbomb is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 574
so for my 320 total volume tank what recomendations would you all give me?
  #61  
Old 01/13/2007, 03:01 AM
Prince Dakkar Prince Dakkar is offline
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Location: Nautilus
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40 watt UV should be fine
  #62  
Old 01/13/2007, 02:33 PM
SDguy SDguy is offline
My reef is my fix :-D
 
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Location: San Diego
Posts: 8,866
Quote:
Originally posted by Prince Dakkar
40 watt UV should be fine
Have you read through this thread?
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Click my red house to see my tank :-)
  #63  
Old 01/19/2007, 11:41 AM
Don424 Don424 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hillsborough, NJ
Posts: 352
Quote:
Originally posted by Stoney Mahony
I size uv's for aquaculture and other applications and like others have said, wattages can be reduced by as much as 40% in 6 months. Oversize by at least 40% to be sure you have the killing power you need when the lamp ages and replace bulbs every 6 months. When sizing uv's, you also need to look at what type of organisms are you are planning on killing. Icthyophthirius sp(Ich) takes 336,000 microsiemens/cm^2 to kill but saprolegnia sp only takes 35,000, common bacteria takes 15,000 and water born algae takes 22,000. If your UV is rated for 15,000 uws/cm^2 then your not going to kill the ich. You either need to slow the flow rate or buy more UV's and run them in succession. If your UV is rated for 15,000 uws/cm^2 and you need 30,000, you can cut the flow rate in half and reach 30,000. As if all of this isn't enough, the diameter of the UV housing should also be taken into consideration. Light is diminished as it gets further away from the bulb and most lamps have an effective kill range of about 3/4-1 inch from the bulb. If your using a UV with a 3" housing then 1" of the water flowing through is not being effected by the UV lamp. Emporer came out with the smart uvs that feature a 2" housing wich is much more effective, or...MAKE YOUR OWN

On the larger operations, it also depends on the type of UV bulb used. If it is a low pressure mercury type UV lamp, they typically last 2,500-9,000 hrs, but medium to high pressure mercury type uv lamps only last 1000 hours.

Im no expert but I know a little about them.
Stoney..........I have a 75g. If I want to make sure I'm killing any Ich, what wattage do you recommend?..........& what uv unit in particular do you like? I'd don't want to break my bank either.
  #64  
Old 01/19/2007, 01:55 PM
rawbomb rawbomb is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 574
I know that for my 320 40watts wouldnt kill anything at all but im not too clear on how to calculate it to get one that kills EVERYTHING including ICH
  #65  
Old 04/20/2007, 09:48 PM
nanoreefbro nanoreefbro is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 115
So then for a 150 Gal tank with a 37 gal sump total 187 Gal would a 80 watt UV Sterilizer do the trick for killing ich??
  #66  
Old 11/23/2007, 09:24 PM
Macimage Macimage is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Quartz Hill, CA
Posts: 1,155
Just checking in to see what recommendations there were for some of the larger 200 gallon systems? Using a maxijet 400 would this Aqua 57 watt be big enough to kill everything?:

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...ry_Code=Aquauv

Thanks!
Joyce
  #67  
Old 11/24/2007, 03:12 AM
JC VT JC VT is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Posts: 533
Check out the HO units here, they have monster flow rates:

http://www.wetdryfilter.com/uv_sterilizers.htm

I wouldn't run a small UV or really low flow through a UV (relative to your system). Unless you are getting whatever it is you are trying to nuke into the UV it is not effective
  #68  
Old 11/24/2007, 04:21 AM
wrott wrott is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,017
Good point JC VT.
Most people here do not seem to understand that the most important issue is flow rate through the UV devise, and secondly to the total volume of water it is being applied.
Not, "I have a 100g tank, is 25w good enough?" It should be asked, "I have a 100g tank, how many watts of UV and what should be the flow rate through the device?"
 


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