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#1
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How long To QT @ 1.018
I am QTing some fish to add to my reef, the fish were all being held in 1.018 water when I bought them. All are eating frozen cyclopseze and Mysis shrimp. The tank has been up for a 1.5 weeks, and used a seeded biofilter from my sump. The last fish went in on 5/7. The fish are: Pygmy angelfish, Bubblegum goby, Saluwesis bassalett, mystery wrass.
No odd behavior or lesions noted....so how long should I QT em, and is this the appropriate salinity to discourage/kill ick? Thanks, Marc |
#2
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Don't forget that RC has a Fish Disease Treatment Forum. You'll get the best advice and guidance from there.
Good quarantine recommendations are found here: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-1...ature/index.ht Although the above author recommends a month, I recommend 6 weeks for QT observation. But. . .You're not performing a QT for observation, you are treating the fish. So the proper question is how to treat the fish for Marine Ich. For Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) which hyposalinity will address (and no other disease, BTW) you want to hold the fish in quarantine until you see the last signs of Marine Ich on your fish. Then, you hold the salinity there for another 6 weeks. If you see any signs of Marine Ich during that time, you start the clock over. After a straight, uninterrupted time of being ich-free for 6 weeks, you raise the salinity over a period of a week. After that you hold the fish in the QT for another 4 weeks to verify that you have beaten the parasite. |
#3
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Everything Lee says is correct and to the point. However, if you see absolutely no evidence of disease, I'd bump it up a bit to 1.022 or so to decrease stress and just watch 'em.
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Excuses are just the nails for the house of failure. |
#4
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1.018 is not low enough to kill ick. You need 1.009 for that, for 6 weeks.
A slightly lower salinity in the short term helps relieve stress by reducing the effort the fish expends at osmoregulation. For a new fish or a sick fish, what you are running at is good. In the long term, however, it will harm the fish to stay at lower salinities. Don't be afraid of hypo. Just go slow raising/lower levels (.002 max per day) and watch your pH and O2 levels. Right now I am going through a process of putting all my fish through hypo and letting the tank run fallow to kill off any lingering parasites. The fish don't even seem to notice the change.
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Don't count your gobies before they've metamorphasized. |
#5
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Good catch Nicole.
I read "1.008" for his posted "1.018." You need a salinity of 11ppt to 12ppt which is around 1.008 to 1.009 to really blast the parasite, IMHO. |
#6
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oopps. ditto. But I still stand by that if you've seen no evidence of disease AND you are simply QTing, there's no reason to stick with the low salinity. If you are treating ich specifically...that's different. Granted actually I don't consider 1.018 all that hypo for fish only, but still, they'd probably be "happier" with a bit more salt in the water.
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Excuses are just the nails for the house of failure. |
#7
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Thanks for the input, I will do a 20% WC and bring it up to 1.020. So far there are no signs of disease (knock on wood). I hope these fish can handle a while longer in QT, it just seems like a crappy environment ( glass box with lots of PVC fittings) when compared to my main system. I will gradually bring them up to 1.025 to match my reef.
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#8
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QT is a chance for them to learn to eat prepared foods and have a little peace and quiet before going into the tank to compete with other fish. They have had a rough few weeks already! They need the quiet time, so don't rush this process.
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Don't count your gobies before they've metamorphasized. |
#9
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P.S. You can enrich the environment a little with plasic plants. Either fake aquarium plants, or go to Michael's and get some plastic plants there. Just be sure to wash well, and don't get the kinds with wire in it! (Or silk.)
__________________
Don't count your gobies before they've metamorphasized. |
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