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  #76  
Old 01/07/2008, 03:27 PM
BeanAnimal BeanAnimal is offline
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Roy Underhill creates some spectacular pieces and most of it is done with makeshift jigs and tools.

I struggled along with a sears 10" aluminum "toy" for years.

Pescadero... the old crapsmans are not so bad. Their trunions are not the greatest (they leave a lot to be desired when compared to the trunion of modern saw...) but they are certainly workable and can still act as the foundation for a decent DIY say.
  #77  
Old 01/07/2008, 03:29 PM
cannarella cannarella is offline
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Roy is a hoot to watch in person.
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If my phaser discharges off by as little as .06 terra watts, it would cause a cascading exothermal inversion.
  #78  
Old 01/07/2008, 03:38 PM
scbadiver scbadiver is offline
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You are right Don, that why I got the Ridgid, It was closer to MY skill level anyway LOL. Also, you were right on the nose about the OEM blade too but I have several different ones already. Believe it or not I was upgrading from a very fine but very tired old old craftsman saw from the early 50's so I had plenty of stuff around to replace the blade that it came with. It was a little less than impressive for sure.
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  #79  
Old 01/07/2008, 03:41 PM
BeanAnimal BeanAnimal is offline
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I never got a chance to see him in person.

I love the low budget production.... hell they can't even edit out the mistakes, even when he gets hurt.

How many times have you seen him yell "Doh! Ouuuuch!" and then reach for a rag to stop the bleeding knuckles!

That is by far one of my favorite all time shows. It is actually what interested me in woodworking as a kid!
  #80  
Old 01/07/2008, 03:51 PM
Donw Donw is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by scbadiver
You are right Don, that why I got the Ridgid, It was closer to MY skill level anyway LOL. Also, you were right on the nose about the OEM blade too but I have several different ones already. Believe it or not I was upgrading from a very fine but very tired old old craftsman saw from the early 50's so I had plenty of stuff around to replace the blade that it came with. It was a little less than impressive for sure.
No matter your skill level it not a good VALUE as far as money is concerned.

Don
  #81  
Old 01/07/2008, 04:02 PM
pescadero pescadero is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by cannarella
I bet he spent a lot of time setting it up.
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  #82  
Old 01/07/2008, 04:06 PM
Donw Donw is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by pescadero
Another misconception. Its may be a little saw but its much more accurate than 99% of contractors saws made. One reason alot of professional funiture makers keep one in their shops.

Don
  #83  
Old 01/07/2008, 04:16 PM
GTriever GTriever is offline
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I have no problems with my TS3650 saw. The fence is dead on, and I have made minor alignments to the saw maybe twice in 3 years. FWIW, for a contractor saw I consider its performance to be excellent.
  #84  
Old 01/07/2008, 04:33 PM
Nereaga Nereaga is offline
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As a punchout technician for a custom builder, I will chime in here with my 2 cents. I have been using hand tools exclusively for about 8-9 years now. Corded and battery operated.

I like DeWalt, Rigid, and Makita.

Like someone else said, you get what you pay for. It it is cheap, chances are it will not last long and/or break. 80% of all my power tools are DeWalt.

I dont go nuts, because my uncle(a fellow reefer) has an enourmous woodshop in his garage. It is stocked with all Grizzly powertools. Table saw, Band saw, drill press, and I know there is more I am missing....

HTH,

Brad
  #85  
Old 01/07/2008, 04:43 PM
Donw Donw is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by GTriever
I have no problems with my TS3650 saw. The fence is dead on, and I have made minor alignments to the saw maybe twice in 3 years. FWIW, for a contractor saw I consider its performance to be excellent.
Put thumb pressure against the outfeed side of the fence. If it has any deflection its not dead on. This is one of the major differences. The rigid will deflect easily the powermatic will have none.
Over the course of a 5 or 6 ft board the cut will be off. The more flex the worse it will be.

Don
  #86  
Old 01/07/2008, 04:56 PM
scbadiver scbadiver is offline
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Don, maybe my Ridgid has a different fence the what you are thinking? Mine locks tightly on the front and rear sides. I took a lot of time and care when I set it up and it has always cut vey squre ever since. I have no movement or deflection at all in the fence which is what really impressed me for what I paid. Have they changed fences? I've had mine about 2-3 years now.
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  #87  
Old 01/07/2008, 05:05 PM
RumLad RumLad is offline
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seems that some reviewers think this saw / fence combos is indeed one of the better 'contractor" grade saws available:

Measurements:
The rip fence was as straight as my machinists straightedge. The rip fence would lock down repeatedly within 0.004" of parallel (measured over 22"), it would repeat to a position within 0.005" (this is operator dependant). With a 10lb side load applied at the end of the rip fence it would deflect about 0.002" at that point. These are all VERY respectable numbers and compare favorably to premium replacement fences. The rip fence is one of the major components of a saw and often the single item that translates a $500 low-end saw to a $900 high-end one in the contractor saw category.

This isn't a super high-end cabinet saw for a dedicated woodworking operation, but it is a versatile tool and a no-brainer improvement to any growing shop or on-site operation. What's more, the price is fantastic.


http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/Rid...650Review.html

or

Fence and Rails. This is where the TS3650 really shines. The front and rear rails are stout and provide a nice 36-inch cut capacity–excellent for the MDF, laminate, and other sheet stock we process. The large fence is one of the best manufacturer-provided fences we've seen. It adjusts smoothly, clamps without shifting, and stays put once you lock it down. It has a micro-adjustment knob that works okay, but we typically just bump the fence to the measurement we need with the heel of our hands. We liked the measurement indicators, too. They're left and right of the fence, so you can index a measurement from both sides, and the beveled clear plastic they're made from magnifies the numbers, which is a nice touch.

http://toolsofthetrade.net/industry-...ticleID=501386
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  #88  
Old 01/07/2008, 05:19 PM
scbadiver scbadiver is offline
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Thats funny! The second review is one I read before I bought mine! Afte using it, I have found nothing to disagree with in either review.
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  #89  
Old 01/07/2008, 05:28 PM
cannarella cannarella is offline
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What is that plastic disc for in front of the blade?

I do like how the blade is mostly incases so you can hook up a shop vac for chip collection.

All I know is that the fence that came on my Jet contractors saw sucked. The best things I did for that saw were getting a link belt to greatly reduce vibration and getting a decent fence that doesn't deflect under pressure.
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If my phaser discharges off by as little as .06 terra watts, it would cause a cascading exothermal inversion.
  #90  
Old 01/07/2008, 05:30 PM
Donw Donw is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by scbadiver
Don, maybe my Ridgid has a different fence the what you are thinking? Mine locks tightly on the front and rear sides. I took a lot of time and care when I set it up and it has always cut vey squre ever since. I have no movement or deflection at all in the fence which is what really impressed me for what I paid. Have they changed fences? I've had mine about 2-3 years now.
Your right I was mistaken the 3650 has the parlox fence it was the 3612 that had the jet clone. The 3650 just has the tefc japanese motor and trunion system.


Don
 

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