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Tank Chemistry Question
Okay, so I am a terrible chemist! I never really was all that great at chemistry in high school and here I am in a hobby that appears to be heavily chemistry intensive. My nitrate is 0, ph is at 8.0, salinity has been around 1.026, magnesium is around 1260 ppm, calcium is around 440 ppm, and strontium is around 3 ppm. All other parameters seem to be okay. Over the weekend and early week this week I was able to get my calcium up to where it should be. I now need to bring up the strontium. I will test for iodine next, just to be sure. I have been dosing Kent Marine supplements just because that is what is available from the LFS. I am using Salifert tests where I can. Below is the link to my new tank thread.
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=825253 My goal is to be primarily LPS. How much strontium can I add to the system and over what period of time in order to bring the level up and not shock everything?
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Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
#2
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Hi John,
I personally think you are wasting your time worrying about the strontium and the iodine. First off there is no real need to dose either in my opinion. The benefits of dosing iodine have never been established and the testing methods are not accurate. If you overdose it will be extremely harmful to the livestock. I also think strontium is a waste of time. A good salt mix and frequent water changes are all that is needed to replace these elements in my opinion. Randy will give you his take on things and I'm sure others will chime in as well. Regards, Pat
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90 AGA Megaflow (Setup 1-24-06) 120 Lbs. Liverock EuroReef RS 100 Skimmer 2 X 150 MH 2 X 96 watt PC Actinic 2 Clarki Clowns (27 months old) 1 Niger Trigger (Owned 2 months) 2 Tunze 6055 PH |
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I dont think its worth the hassle. Just do regular water changes.
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I found a way to make a small fortune running a reef tank. Start with a large fortune. Unofficial President of the SEACLONE haters club |
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John, Here is some reading for you regarding your questions. This will help you to make and informed and intelligent decision. These should answer all your questions.
Regards, Pat http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2003/chem.htm http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...l2003/chem.htm and about strontium http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2003/chem.htm http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/dec2003/chem.htm
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90 AGA Megaflow (Setup 1-24-06) 120 Lbs. Liverock EuroReef RS 100 Skimmer 2 X 150 MH 2 X 96 watt PC Actinic 2 Clarki Clowns (27 months old) 1 Niger Trigger (Owned 2 months) 2 Tunze 6055 PH |
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I agree that iodine and strontium are not generally beneficial supplements. I have not added any of either for years.
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Randy Holmes-Farley |
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Got it. You told me that before and I forgot. I reread the article and understand now. I even set up a spreadsheet to help prevent the confusion in the future.
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Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
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Happy reefing.
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Randy Holmes-Farley |
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I have checked all of my water parameters. They are as follows (from yesterday):
Calcium 440ppm (as of 2 days ago) Alkalinity 3.66 meg/L; 10.2 dkh Salinity 1.026 Temperature 80 ph 8.08 Nitrate 0 ppm I will check magnesium tomorrow. I am adding about 1 gallon of RO daily. The temp does not fluctuate more than 2 degrees per day - approx 79-81. Just an update. The ph in the morning this morning was actually around 7.8. What is the safest way to increase ph without goofing up something else? I have some thoughts based on other reading and suggestions made, but thought I would ask first for a change.
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Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
#9
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The best ways to keep pH up are more aeration with fresh air, or through the use of high pH calcium and alkalinity systems, such as limewater.
This article has more: Low pH: Causes and Cures http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm
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Randy Holmes-Farley |
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I have been letting the system sit and have been trying to get the water balanced out properly. I think I have everything where it needs to be at this point with only one exception. The only parameter that I think is out of balance right now is the magnesium. (The ph is a little low, but I have a good idea of how to fix that now.) I have looked around, but have not found much about how to increase the magnesium level. Following are the tanks current parameters.
Calcium (ppm) 446 (KH) Alkalinity (meg/L) 3.71 KH (Alkalinity) (dKH) 10.4 Salinity 1.025 Temperature 82 pH (acceptable 7.8-8.5) 8.00 Nitrate (ppm) 0 mg/L Magnesium (ppm) 1050 Any thoughts?
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Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
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Magnesium ought to be in the range of 1250-1350 ppm or so. You can use a commercial magnesium supplement, or MAG flake from a place like Home Depot. Boost it 100 ppm per day or less.
This calculator shows how much to add: Reef Chemicals Calculator http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chem_calc3.html This article talks about MAG flake sources: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php#17 These articles also have more on magnesium: Reef Aquarium Water Parameters http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm Magnesium http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm The other parameters look OK, although I'd personally raise the specific gravity to match natural seawater at about 1.0264.
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Randy Holmes-Farley |
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Thanks Randy. If I use the MAG flake, will it change any of my other water parameters or will they all pretty much stay the same?
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Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
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I have been unable to find the magflake so I use B-Ionic liquid magnesium. It comes in 1 gallon jugs and is not too terribly expensive.
Regards, Pat
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90 AGA Megaflow (Setup 1-24-06) 120 Lbs. Liverock EuroReef RS 100 Skimmer 2 X 150 MH 2 X 96 watt PC Actinic 2 Clarki Clowns (27 months old) 1 Niger Trigger (Owned 2 months) 2 Tunze 6055 PH |
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If I use the MAG flake, will it change any of my other water parameters or will they all pretty much stay the same?
Same.
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Randy Holmes-Farley |
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Randy and Pat, thanks for the advice.
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Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
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Good luck.
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Randy Holmes-Farley |
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If the alkalinity level of a tank is well beyond the preferred range, what symptoms would the tank display? I do not have any symptoms that I know of right now, but my alkalinity is rather high (roughly in the 13-14 dKH range).
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Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
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Okay, I just read another thread on this same question. I was using Seachem Marine Buffer to raise the ph. This is probably the cause of the rise in alk. Now that the alk is high and calcium is a little low but still acceptable (~380), the idea would be to stop the 2 part (b-ionic). I should let the alk fall and use a calcium chloride to maintain or slightly increase calcium. The last time I used Kent turbo-calcium. The label says it is a calcium chloride product. Would this be safe to use while I let the alk fall? So far the water is crystal clear, the corals are doing well (mostly soft and LPS), and coraline has started to grow.
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Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
#19
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I should mention that ph is in the 7.9 (am) - 8.1 (pm) range.
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Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
#20
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Don't use buffers to adjust pH.
In theory, better airation will fix your pH if your alk is in the right range. But the easiest fix (in my opinion) is to set up a limewater drip to replace your evaporation. MrsWages pickling lime is pretty cheap. Read Randy's article about low pH. It's near the top of this list http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=102605 |
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With regard to your current situation:
0. Read Randy's articles so you understand what is happening. Then make changes slowly. 1. stop adding the buffer, just try to improve airation (skimmer sucking air from outside stand, open a window in the house, etc) 2. Adjust your Ca to the right range using CaCl (Turbo Calcium or Peladow). I would do this in increments over several days with testing between so you don't overshoot or cause a mass precipitation event. 3. Wait for everything to fall to right levels. Other than trying to improve airation, ignore your pH problem. During this time, read Randy's stuff about Ca/Alk supplementation schemes and solutions to low pH. 4. By the time you reach four, you'll know what to do (I'd start with limewater) |
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The last time I used Kent turbo-calcium. The label says it is a calcium chloride product. Would this be safe to use while I let the alk fall?
Yes, that's a fine way to go. FWIW, 13-14 dKH is not much above the normal ranges that I recommend of 7-11 dKH, so it need not drop much.
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Randy Holmes-Farley |
#23
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Thanks,
Believe it or not I really do try to read the info you provide. Unfortunately chemistry drives me nuts. I guess if I stay at it long enough I will eventually figure it out - kind of.
__________________
Check out the little red house for directions to my tank journals. John Martin |
#24
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Believe it or not I really do try to read the info you provide
I believe it. Good luck!
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Randy Holmes-Farley |
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