Anyone know about boats?

[dkh0331]

Mucho Gracias

[crp]

Originally posted by dinoman
Only , you couldn't find enough water to even float a 50ft boat around here.

Come East young man!

[Jeffrey Porter]

I kinda like this one. My colour too....


http://www.boattraderonline.com/addetail.html?79840086

[dinoman]

Originally posted by crp
Come East young man!

But then I'd be closer to you!

[Hobster]

WizardGuss has covered most of the major items.
You will also want to check the engine lower unit. After a sea trial
(don't even think of buying without one)
After the engine has been in the water running, unscrew the lower plug in the lower unit. Then slowly unscrew the upper plug where you put in the fluid. If you see any water come out the bottom or the fluid is milky white, screw the plugs back in, say thanks and walk away.
If you are not sure how to do this, bring a friend or mechanic. You don't want all the fluid to drain out.

[rhwimmers]

Unscrew the plug where you put the fluid in - as in oil? Are you saying drain some oil to see the color or what - what fluid are you talking about?

[Hobster]

Originally posted by rhwimmers
Unscrew the plug where you put the fluid in - as in oil? Are you saying drain some oil to see the color or what - what fluid are you talking about?

The lower unit of the outboard is the gear case where the drive shaft comes down and connects to the gears and prop.
This is filled with gear oil.
On the very bottom down by the skeg is a a recessed flat head screw. This is were you drain the fluid (gear oil) Up above on the flat side is another screw were you pump or squeeze gear oil into to fill. By opening the top screw you break the vaccum and the oil will pour out. If you just unscrew the bottom one it will just kida drip enough for you to check.

Hard to explain, easy to do. Sometimes the bottom screw is really stuck so get the sellers permisson or have him do it. I am used to them being stuck solid due to salt water use.

If the fluid is milky that means water has gotten in there and the gear case needs to be re sealed which will cost you$$$.

[wizardgus®]

This is an OMC Cobra, but pretty much the same thing

[sfaribault]

Originally posted by Jeffrey Porter
I kinda like this one. My colour too....


http://www.boattraderonline.com/addetail.html?79840086

This is more fun.. http://adcache.boattraderonline.com/6/4/0/89662240.htm

[Jeffrey Porter]

i'd agree

[drauka99]

yearly we have a few of the locals (as well as tourists) show up to show off thier boats, been a 15 year tradition

here is a pic from 2006

[Hobster]

Not to burst you bubble or sink your ship but there are so many things to look for and check. You "get what you pay for"

What kind of shape is the trailer? Were will you store the boat? Are the tires and bearings good?

How about the steering cable?, the battery?, does it have power trim and tilt? Any soft wood spots on the deck?
What year is this anyway?. It appears to be a older model Merc.
Having bought and sold many boats with every kind of outboard my advice is to look long and hard, have a mechanic check whatever you decide on. It is usually better to pay more up front than to go through the pain and anguish of having to get towed in and then pay a high repair bill. JMO.

[joeychitwood]

Originally posted by Hobster
On the very bottom down by the skeg is a a recessed flat head screw. This is were you drain the fluid (gear oil) Up above on the flat side is another screw were you pump or squeeze gear oil into to fill.

In these parts, we fill the lower unit through the lower hole to prevent air pockets and bubbles. It requires a pump or very strong hands to squeeze the lower unit oil into the case.

[GSMguy]

Originally posted by Jeffrey Porter
i'd agree

Aparently this fountain is for sale if your interested


This might be more practical though

[billsreef]

Originally posted by Hobster
Sometimes the bottom screw is really stuck so get the sellers permisson or have him do it. I am used to them being stuck solid due to salt water use.

An impact screw driver and a big hammer will take care of that little problem However, being a FW boat you'll likely only need a large slot blade screwdriver. You only need to pull that bottom plug, any water will show up there.

[Jeffrey Porter]

actually, i'll take the boat in the foreground of the second pic.

[GSMguy]

Originally posted by Jeffrey Porter
actually, i'll take the boat in the foreground of the second pic.

Oh those things are a dime a dozen up here.




got pics of them racing uploading now

[crp]

Originally posted by GSMguy
Oh those things are a dime a dozen up here.

Aww, the antique boat show. Yep, GSMguy, we are very fortunate that we have alot of different boats on the River. I've never seen a more beautiful place.

[GSMguy]

[Hobster]

Originally posted by joeychitwood
In these parts, we fill the lower unit through the lower hole to prevent air pockets and bubbles. It requires a pump or very strong hands to squeeze the lower unit oil into the case.

Yes, my bad. From the bottom till it comes out ze top then let a little drain out. I can not type and instruct at the same time.

Actually I would not think you would ever have to change lower unit gear oil up there in the hinter land with what 1 hour running time per season before the lakes freeze over.

[jpfelix]

around here, if you only spend 2k on a boat you'll be spending another 2k on aspirin!

[fat-tony]

check out bassboatcentral. they have a resident prop guy (wizardgus pretty much covered that one to a T), and they have each motor family broken down by year and type as well.

[O'Man]

Lots of good advice here. In addition, ask for maintenance records or at least receipts for parts. Unless the thermostat & water pump impeller have been replaced within the past 2 or 3 years, plan on a few hundred to have that done before you go putting lots of hours on the engine. I would also check the fuel tank. Todays gas with the ethanol can be a source of problems. If the tank is fiberglass, run away and don't look back. Aluminum or plastic is ok, but check the fuel, fuel filters for water or varnish build-up. It can be a real pita. If the gas tank is full, check it for water and find out when it was last filled. If the fuel has been sitting without stabil or another fuel treatment, have the owner pump out the tank before you accept delivery. Checking the spark plug even before you have a mechanic check it can tell you a lot. 2 stroke plugs should look cocoa-brown not white. I agree with checking the wood for rot. It is repairable, but it takes time.

I got a "project boat" for $900 years ago. I enjoyed it. Did the work & got to use it for 5 years before I sold it, and bought my next boat. It was good for me; it was a nice healthy distraction. If I had more time, I would like to do a restoration on an old trawler so I could setup a place for hanging out on weekends. Good Luck

[BigSkyBart]

I know that if a boat is not winterized properly, you'll need a new motor in the spring

Thats what I didn't do last winter & did do this spring


this is how I felt when I found out how much $$ my error was going to cost

[BigSkyBart]

and with the assist to:.....................?