Tank of the Month - April '04

[Achilles]

Originally posted by Travis
Achilles, your tank is absolutely awe-inspiring. The blown up picture of the whole tank has become my new background. That video really helped put everything into perspective in a way that pictures can't.

I have a question about the reflectors. Could you describe how you designed them and determined bulb placement to blend the two different bulbs so well. I would like to run 2 10k and 2 20k on my new tank but I haven't figured out a way to blend the light like you have.

I found that I had to place my Ushio Blue MH bulbs in front and the Sakis at the back to get a very nice blend of colours, when I reversed it, it looked strange.

A possible reason could be that the rear of my tank has corals and LR that is placed much higher and that helps reflect the 'yellower' light back to the front to blend with the blue light.

My tank is 3ft wide, and the reflectors cover the entire width of the tank, so that could be another factor why it blended well?

I wanted to put two bulbs in one reflector initially but I figured that since I designed my lighting spread to be like this, with the two reflectors parallel to each other, it already does look like two bulbs in one big reflector!

I may change the sakis to the AC 14k bulbs because, believe it or not, I want to cut back on growth and see if I can get better colours from my SPS instead! LOL!

[Achilles]

Originally posted by Julio
Do you have nay problems with corals fighting? also how often do you frag the corals in your tank to keep them in line?

Most of my corals have ample breathing space to grow out actually. I don't really mind if there is touching between corals as long as they don't affect the whole colony.

At the very most, one or two branches will be affected and the winning colony will encrust on the dead branch, helping to 'lock' all the SPS colonies together, like a natural reef where coral aggression does takes place.

If the corals threatens to touch another at more critical places like the main stalk, I'll have to move them or frag off the offending branches.

I have had more trouble with my frags in good shape because I usually don't anchor the base rock they are stuck on and they do get knocked over by my large snails or hermits.

[Achilles]

Originally posted by tankslave
I noticed you were using a DSB for your main filtration. Im currently planning a move to a larger tank with a plenum/DSB. I was wondering what size sand you had used and if you used a plenum either in your main tank or refugium because it seems you have been quite successful with your DSB system. Any advice you have is appreciated.

Sand grain size? From my sampling, the common diameter size is in the 2mm (at least 40% from the sample taken) and 1.5mm (at least 50% from the sample taken) with the remaining percentage ranging from 0.5 to 1mm).

I do not use a plenum, its just a straighforward DSB.

I have decommissioned my refugium a long time ago as I felt it didn't do much in terms of nitrate reduction vs my DSB and that it created more problems eg. macroalgae crashes, spread of nuisance algae like GHA, Bryopsis into my main tank that hitchhiked with macroalgae.

[Achilles]

Some of my inhabitants that weren't featured. Enjoy!

Green Star Polyps:



White Pulsing Xenia:



Some other closeups:

[Wolfgang]

Awesome Tank!!!!
Any shots of the Reef Structure before Coral were added? I'm having a hard time understanding how Rock was placed around your Platform?
Do you have a Web Page up withmore Pics?
Thanks!
-Wolfgang

[Achilles]

Hi Wolfgang... hmmm... sorry dude, that was one part of my reef setup that I didn't document to a large extent.

And I don't have a personal website for my reef yet. Maybe I should?

[Achilles]

Oh wait... I have this pix to share! My Reef Dog!



Just kidding...

This is the only shot I took of the right side, it should give you an idea of how I stacked my rocks on/against my PVC reef rack. It's only 50% completed compared to the right side today.



The gaps between the PVC reef shelves were bridged by enormous liverocks.

The emphasis was to camouflage the rack while maximising water flow through and minimise the footprint at the same time.

I spent many backbreaking hours and days arranging and rearranging then.

Hope this helps?

[Regal]

Hai AT, your the man, congratulation to you.

One information to share he is also the owner of Singapore Reef Club website. May be you guys also want to know how he manage his website.

[Crawdad1]

Originally posted by Crawdad1
100% TOTM! I may have missed it but how old is the system since switching over to all sps?

Maybe I missed it on page 4. How long has it been an sps tank?

[gwies]

Gratz! Nice tank.

[ShadowViper]

I'll reask this since i didnt see it answered. Can you go into more detail about the T.u.b.b.y.

[funkyskunk]

Hi there, and congrats on such a great tank, !!!!

However I am concerned that you say that you found the refuguim more of a problem than a benefit, I am currently building a 2600-gallon system, of witch 1000 gallons will be devoted to 4 different refuguims and the sump, Do you have any suggestions for me?

[my2girls]

Two words-- absolutely gorgeous!

[Julio]

the chiwawa swimming was funny id id the same thing when i had my tank and my wife didn't think it was funny.

I love your rock structure as it allows a lot of water to pass through the rocks for airation.

[Achilles]

Originally posted by Crawdad1
Maybe I missed it on page 4. How long has it been an sps tank?

Hmmm.... full SPS? I think its definitely been more than a year old since I slowly converted from a LPS dominated tank. Maybe 1.5+ years, almost 2? *shrug*

[Achilles]

Originally posted by Julio
the chiwawa swimming was funny id id the same thing when i had my tank and my wife didn't think it was funny.

I love your rock structure as it allows a lot of water to pass through the rocks for airation.

Chihuahua? Nah... my Harry's an American Hairless Terrier (AHT). He's buck naked. Skin as smooth as a baby's!

[Achilles]

Originally posted by ShadowViper
I'll reask this since i didnt see it answered. Can you go into more detail about the T.u.b.b.y.

The T.U.B.B.Y. is an automatic water Top Up device activated by two float switches, its developed locally and it works great with a kalkreactor.

[Achilles]

Originally posted by funkyskunk
Hi there, and congrats on such a great tank, !!!!

However I am concerned that you say that you found the refuguim more of a problem than a benefit, I am currently building a 2600-gallon system, of witch 1000 gallons will be devoted to 4 different refuguims and the sump, Do you have any suggestions for me?

Well, I don't think I can give any suggestions, only my opinion and experience with running one.

IME & IMO, you just cannot guarantee that the macroalgae (or nuisance algae) that are in your refugium will STAY there and NOT move up into your main tank.

[jnichols]

How about the overflow? Is that built with the same functionality of a hang on? Some detail would be great. By the way, very impressive!!

[Achilles]

Originally posted by jnichols
How about the overflow? Is that built with the same functionality of a hang on? Some detail would be great. By the way, very impressive!!

This pix shows the durso standpipes removed.

Take a look at this pix to get an idea of what it's like. It's definitely not a hang on. Water over flows by gravity into this external overflow chamber/box and back into the sump.



I made the external overflow chamber/box such that it can hold an eggcrate slate so I can put filter floss on it if I so desire (to remove solid particulate matter).



Here's the 2 Durso standpipes installed. (pls ignore the blue basket, I think I was doing some filtering with floss there... hehe...)

All these pixs were taken when I first set up the tank.

The glass walls are now filled with tiny white-hardshelled red featherduster worms.

[MadTownMax]

any close-up pics of the T.U.B.B.Y. unit? Does it hook-up to an RO/DI source? I've been looking for a way to have my kalk dose automatically, rather than refilling my 5G bucket every few days.....

[jnichols]

Originally posted by MadTownMax
any close-up pics of the T.U.B.B.Y. unit? Does it hook-up to an RO/DI source? I've been looking for a way to have my kalk dose automatically, rather than refilling my 5G bucket every few days.....

Try reefdosing.com. Mine works great!

[rjwilson37]

I see you have Check Stop Valves on your returns, have you always used them and have you ever had a problem with them sticking open?

[Achilles]

The T.U.B.B.Y. is not a dosing pump. Two float switches attached to the unit will detect falling water levels and then activate a dosing pump attached to the unit. It's better than most models out there which only use one float switch, a little risky if you consider that a snail can actually activate it and cause an overflow.

Here's some info taken off the T.U.B.B.Y. manufacturer.

-----------------------------------------------

The TUBBY is a automatic fresh water top up device which will replace any lost water due to evaporation in your marine tank. It is maintenance free and relies on 2 float switches to detect your water level in the tank. Once the level drops, it will activate a attached powerhead (not included) in a freshwater container. The powerhead then pumps freshwater back to the main tank to replace the evaporated water. Hence maintaining salinity. (salt does not evaporate)

Some TUBBY users also use the TUBBY to help in their monthly water changes. The possibilites are up to your own imagination.

Why this Product is better than the competition if any? :

1) Float switches run entirely on 12v DC and on very low current.
2) There is a fuse to prevent any short circuits of your connected powerhead
3) Output supply to powerhead is totally isolated until BOTH float switches activate. (Both neutral and live are isolated)
4) 2 Float switches which turn on the pump only when BOTH are activated as added safety. (Prevents false activation by snails, floating algae etc)
5) Runs on a regulated voltage transformer able to take 110-240Vac and can operate 24hrs continuously. No risk of overheating or fluctuating voltages etc. Typical AC-DC transformers are not designed to run continuously for 24hrs a day.
6) Branded relay used in military and commercial applications with very high mean time before failures. (high MTBF)
7) 30 days manufacturing defect warranty.


What you will need to start:

1. TUBBY unit.
2. Fresh Water container (preferably of 20 liter volume at least).
3. A powerhead pump (rated at least 600L/hr to 1200L/hr…eg SICCE NOVA).
4. Hoses to connect the pump to your tank/sump.
5. A fish tank (of course).




Whats in the Package:
1) 1 TUBBY device
2) 2 Float Switches with 2m length cable

Dimensions of Tubby: 20cm (length) x 13cm (breadth) x 6cm (height



The two float switches are connected to the TUBBY in pairs. And then attached to the sump or main tank where the water level changes during evaporation. You can find out where this would happen (usually where the return pump is for those with sump tank) by scooping out a fetcher of water and observing where the water level changes most.

The float switches are entirely sealed and are water resistant.

Close up of float switch.



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Hope this helps!

AT

[Achilles]

Originally posted by rjwilson37
I see you have Check Stop Valves on your returns, have you always used them and have you ever had a problem with them sticking open?

Not really a problem, these are the rubber flap types.

I just need to soak them in an acid solution every few months because they will be coralline-encrusted and if it grows on the lid of the outlet hole, it may not be a tight seal and cause a small amount of backflow.

It's just a precautionary measure when I installed them. Anyway, my returns are positioned just below the water surface so it won't be possible to drain my whole tank should something bad happen to the check valves.