Questions for you DIY stand builders....

[badazztealcobra]

Okay, I went and bought a bunch of lumber today so I can start working on building a stand for my 180g tank. I am basing the math off the plans that rocket engineer made.

The top boards (right under the tank) are going to be 2x6's. The legs will be 2x6"s (as well as the nailing board behind the legs), and the base on the floor will be 2x4's. I will be sheeting it later with some type of wood that I havent decided on yet, but want to build the frame to take all the weight so it doesnt matter what size wood I sheet with....

When i'm putting all these together, should I throw some titebond III in all the seams before screwing them together, or is that not needed ???

By using 2x6's can I build this without a middle support, or should I put one in there just to be on the safe side ???

Should I use 4x4's for the nailing boards instead of using extra 2x6's ???

What kind of primer and paint are most of you using once you have the stand built ???

I was going to be using deckmate screws, are these good, or should I return them and buy stainless ???

Any other suggestions or tips before I get to work on this tomorrow ???

[alpine]

well 4X4 would be way-way overkill for a 180.I vaguely remember rocket engineers plans,but they will work.I also would definately put a middle support if your tank doesnt have a perimeter brace.If the bottom glass is touching the surface it will be sitting on,then you want a middle brace,with accompanying supports evenly spaced.

Like I said I vaguely remember his plans.Your initial plans sound good,and if you wanted when your done you could skin it with thinner plywood if you wanted.

HTH

[badazztealcobra]

The tank has a trim piece all the way around the bottom (its a brand new AGA 180RR tank)...

I thought the 4x4 for a nailing edge might be too much but thought I would ask anyway...

What about glue, should I use any, or maybe some liquid nails or something ??? I'm thinking it wouldnt hurt to put some glue in there before screwing it together so I should be good to go...

Also, Im going to prime and paint it so I'm guessing the deckmate screws will be more than enough....

Anyone else got any tips ???

[ob1thx1138]

My only suggestion would be to keep it simple and take a look at a production made stand before you through a lot of lumber into a stand. The ones they sell are not built nearly as heavy duty as a lot of people build their stands. To be honest we typically over build to an absolutely ridiculous level.

[Phyxius]

Like others have said we do go a little overkill on the stands, I know I did.
You could get away with 2x4s on the legs and possibly double them up using the second as supports for the shelf the tank sits on. You would want the weight of the tank on wood and not using the screws only to support the weight. 2x6 on the supports would work good but maybe put a support on the back part to help some. Some woodworking glue would suffice on the joints to help some but isn't a requirement.
If you sheet the outside with plywood it will act as a helper for the structures weight holding also.
I used deckmate screws on mine but caulked them all over before I primed and painted the inside of mine. I just used oil based Kilz primer and then 3 coats of marine white enamel over the top. Still looks like the day I did it today and salt mist, water and the like just wipe right off.

Getting ready to do another one for a 180 myself!! You can see my pics of the one I did for my 90 that I will base my 180 on in my gallery on pages 6 or 7 or so. It was overkill in building but could hold much more weight than it needs to.

[alpine]

Yes use glue,and the deckmate screws are fine.Heck I use regular drywall screws on my stand builds.

[ob1thx1138]

I am planning on designing a stand just using 3/4" plywood for the structural support. Just use mortise and tenon joints with wood glue and staples. I think you could support just about anything using that method.

[ThaNgBOm321]

my tank sits on a fram that is made from 2x4's.. solid.. i think 2x6's are overkill unless you plan to span the tank ( 155 bf.. i even made my own bowed wood ) .. but i suggest you use a middle support.. on my stand.. i dint make a middle support directly in the middle.. they are about 1 feet in from the outside edges so i have a 49'' opening in the middle... that way i can fit more things inside and have more access to the sump.. also made my two side panels so that they completely pop off.. so i can have even more access to the work area... let me see if i can get a pic...

YzGyz

[ThaNgBOm321]

sry for the quility but it's dark in the room (watching the game)



YzGyz

[badazztealcobra]

That's my reasoning behind using the 2x6's, I wanted the middle to be wide open hopefully so I could have complete access to a 75g tank for the sump....

Will I not be able to leave the front of the tank open ???

[ThaNgBOm321]

im not sure.. you might.. but again, im not 100% sure as i have not done it .. it is a long span.. but you are using 2x6's.... i have a 55 long for a sump ( 4' long by 12 wide and 18'' tall ) and i have plenty room to get to things... my stand is i think 34'' tall.. and that helps a lot.. ( for when you you need to do things from the back of the tank.. like redoing your plumbing)

here is a older pic .. you can see my sump/fuge.. w/octo rp3-3000 ( the octo 200 recirc) and you can see that i can get to everything easily.. i dont think a 75 is longer than a 55 long.. just wider and taller....



YzGyz

[badazztealcobra]

I think I might make a piece for the middle, but just put it in with pocket holes from behind so if I ever needed to I could take it out and put the sump in or out.....

[ThaNgBOm321]

thats a good idea...

GL

YzGYz