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  #76  
Old 11/03/2005, 04:03 PM
countertopguy countertopguy is offline
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Make sure to use clamps to hold down the pieces as you screw together. The way the screw goes in, it wants to pull the pieces out of alignment.

Steve
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  #77  
Old 11/03/2005, 04:06 PM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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Do you recommend a corner clamp or just clamp them to a flat working surface?
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  #78  
Old 11/03/2005, 05:00 PM
countertopguy countertopguy is offline
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Just clamp to a flat surface. The joint is self squaring assuming your cuts are square. You really only need to clamp the piece that does not have the pocket screw hole in it. It is the piece that will want to move.

Steve
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If you ask Chuck Norris what time it is, he always says, "Two seconds 'til." After you ask, "Two seconds 'til what?" he roundhouse kicks you in the face.
  #79  
Old 11/03/2005, 09:03 PM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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A pic coming soon but I got the entire front panel done.

It was quite simple to get it all square.

I did learn that you cannot trust the little marks indicating the degrees on a Craftsman miter saw.
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  #80  
Old 11/03/2005, 09:17 PM
enforcer8621 enforcer8621 is offline
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pocketscrewing is the best way to go by far. My parents own a woodshop and we pocketscrew nearly everything. We use a machine that does it in one step and it's sweet. I remember when we first started we used to have to line everything up with a drill press and that was a pain. Now we can pocketscrew about 50 holes in a few minutes. I'm excited to see how everything turns out.
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  #81  
Old 11/03/2005, 09:20 PM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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Here's the front panel. I sure hope two doors isn't too big!

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  #82  
Old 11/03/2005, 09:33 PM
rdmpe rdmpe is offline
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Looking great! Congrats and I'm gonna get one of those little jigs to do pocket screws too.
  #83  
Old 11/03/2005, 10:15 PM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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It was $20 at Lowes. They had a larger one as well that came with some vice grips a jig with two holes and some screws.

That was $50
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  #84  
Old 11/03/2005, 11:32 PM
countertopguy countertopguy is offline
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In my opinion those two large doors are going to be trouble. You have the space taken up when they are open, working around them etc plus they are way more apt to warp when they are that large. Have you considered two doors in each opening with a fake divider between them. That way when they are closed it looks right and when open you have full access.

Steve
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If you ask Chuck Norris what time it is, he always says, "Two seconds 'til." After you ask, "Two seconds 'til what?" he roundhouse kicks you in the face.
  #85  
Old 11/03/2005, 11:38 PM
Toddrtrex Toddrtrex is offline
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Oh, I understand what you are saying Steve. My 58g stand is like that. Only is 3 feet wide, but has two doors that open with no center divider, but has a fake one attached to the left one. Looks like a divider when closed. I like the look and it allow me to put my sump in there.
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  #86  
Old 11/04/2005, 07:52 AM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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I do see what you mean with the warpage. We were going to do the lap joint method and then the back panel. Would that help prevent warping at all?

Can ya tell I'm being lazy. That's the only reason I wanted two.
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  #87  
Old 11/04/2005, 09:29 AM
countertopguy countertopguy is offline
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I have make frame and panel doors using the router table and door making bits. Even with plywood panels on the inside, when doors get to be large they become less stable.

To increase your odd of having flat stable doors, plane to final thickness and let this wood acclimate preferably in you house, for a few weeks. Then rip to final width and acclimate again. Any warping or bowing will be noticable after the acclimation period and you can cut around or discard these pieces.

It seems like a lot of trouble but it is easier than remaking the doors multiple times. I will say Oak is pretty stable but you should at least let the wood sit for a while after cutting because that is usually when any type of warpage will happen.

Where are you getting you Oak?

Steve
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  #88  
Old 11/04/2005, 09:32 AM
gobygoby gobygoby is offline
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how about 1 big door......
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  #89  
Old 11/04/2005, 10:08 AM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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LOL, one big freaking door would be awesome! I might have to move the kitchen table to open it though. LOL

I got this oak from Lowes. I chose the straightest pieces they had.
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  #90  
Old 11/04/2005, 10:20 AM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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I don't have a planner. I don't have a problem making the wood and letting it sit though, it will be a while before I can pull the dough together to get the tank and extra halide.
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  #91  
Old 11/04/2005, 10:23 AM
gobygoby gobygoby is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by thrlride
LOL, one big freaking door would be awesome! I might have to move the kitchen table to open it though. LOL
I am serious....I did it. and dont think of it as a normal door.....

::with sneaky secret grin::
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Goby
  #92  
Old 11/04/2005, 10:31 AM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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Did you make the entire front panel removable?
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  #93  
Old 11/04/2005, 10:43 AM
rdmpe rdmpe is offline
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You could make the one-piece door flip upwards with some sort of hinge that would hold it up there, sort of like a car hood!
  #94  
Old 11/04/2005, 10:50 AM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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I can't really do a whole front door thing as the 3/4" wood is acting as a support as well. I'm fine with two big or four smaller doors.
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  #95  
Old 11/04/2005, 11:18 AM
gobygoby gobygoby is offline
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Take a wild guess..
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  #96  
Old 11/04/2005, 01:27 PM
thrlride thrlride is offline
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That looks nice gobygoby, what size tank is that?
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  #97  
Old 11/04/2005, 02:50 PM
gobygoby gobygoby is offline
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Thanks! its a 180
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Goby
  #98  
Old 11/04/2005, 03:18 PM
countertopguy countertopguy is offline
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Hey Goby, do you have you sump under your stand?
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If you ask Chuck Norris what time it is, he always says, "Two seconds 'til." After you ask, "Two seconds 'til what?" he roundhouse kicks you in the face.
  #99  
Old 11/04/2005, 03:25 PM
gobygoby gobygoby is offline
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Nope, thats in the basement...but all the ballasts are in there.
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Goby
  #100  
Old 11/05/2005, 12:47 AM
cabbagehead cabbagehead is offline
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I been following this thread for a while. Glad to see the stand finally being assembled. I have a 135 that I am currently about to add water to. I have two large doors just like thrlride's. Is the issue with the doors warping or the stand itself? This is my stand still under construction. I used 2x4 and 2x6 for the guts and wraped it with
birds eye maple


 


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