450 Gallon Peninsula Display - Page 6

goetzc · #**126** 05/09/2007, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mcrist
I’m seriously looking at the Do-it-Yourself Two-Part Calcium and Alkalinity Supplement System that I found of Reef Central. I always tread softly when it comes to cheap solutions because you usually pay for it in the end but it does seem to work for a lot of people. [/B]

It does work and it is a much cheaper option.

Check out http://www.twopartsolution.com/
to get all the stuff in one place. They sell kits so you don't have to buy in bulk if you don't want to.

Chris

mcrist · #**127** 05/09/2007, 01:39 PM

goetzc,

Thanks for the website. I was thinking on buying from them. I guess I will try the baking soda first then move on to the calcium part.

BILLYO382 · #**128** 05/09/2007, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mcrist
I designed my tank to have a closed loop through the bottom of the tank. This is the first time I ever had a tank drilled on the bottom of the tank. After talking with James he convinced me that if I used Hayward brand bulkheads that I would not have leaks. I was so impressed with the quality of the bulkheads that I bought all Hayward brand unions and ball valves.

One thing I did that may be different from what most people do is that I did not use Teflon tape for any threaded connections. I used aquarium grade silicone for all fittings. I learned that one from Bob Fenner. I love the seal it makes and I get zero salt creep and yes you can remove it if needed. Best of all it is flexible for any fittings that has vibrations, specifically pumps.

I had 8 one inch holes drilled on the bottom of the tank and 2 two inch holes on the side of the tank to feed my pump. The pump I decided to go with is a Sequence Dart and I was originally planning to use the 8 way OceanMotions unit for random flow. I decided that the 8 way would make my plumbing way to complicated so I went with the 4 way. I am happy I did since the 4 way was tough enough to get the way I wanted. The Dart is sooo quiet, I love that pump. Bellow is a picture of the fittings where the two inch bulkhead goes to my pump. My daughter is playing peak-a-boo in this photo.

I know im a little late with this question, but how is it your able to safe guard the water from back syphoning if the power goes out? I am just starting a 270Gal tank and have 2 1 7/8" holes drilled in the center bottom of the tank about 2 ft apart from each other, and want to use them for retuns to add flow to my tank but am unsure how to plumb the tank. The tank is a acylic 270 and it has two built in overflows one on each side of the tank both of which have two holes drilled in them for drain & retun. Sorry for the hijacking of the tread just curious as to how your setup works. Thanks so much. Heres a link to my post asking this very question.

my 270 gallon post

Toolguy942 · #**129** 05/10/2007, 12:00 PM

Quote:

I haven’t decided yet on gluing the frogspawn back together or leaving them apart, maybe this weekend when I work on the tank. It always looked awesome because of the sheer size of it but I did lose one head since it was too far on the bottom and not getting enough light.

Size really does matter. Before I moved across town I had a green branching hammer that was at least the size of a volleyball.

It barely fit in the 5 gallon bucket I had to use to move it. Unfortunately, there were too many bumps in the road so I ended up with about 10 different pieces.

I'm finally back to a couple pieces that are bigger than a softball now. At least the frags allowed me to buy equipment for when I upgrade my tank!

Von_Rahvin · #**130** 05/10/2007, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mcrist
I read in 'Marine Invertebrates - A Pocket Expert Guide (TFH)' that Mexican turbos will not survive long in a standard reef tank. They prefer cooler temperatures than what most reef tanks are going to be. Since then I have only purchased Fiji turbos. They are about half the size but they can handle the warmer temperature. I did not have any luck with them eating my hair algae so I needed to try something else.

I've had 1 mexican turbo in my 24 nano for 8 months, the tank stays around 79 deg and that snail is an eating machine. Now if i could just get my trigger to stop eating the ones i put in my aggressive tank i would be great.

The tank looks fantastic, showed it to my girlfriend and her words "ok you can have one like that when we buy a house"

mcrist · #**131** 05/10/2007, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BILLYO382
I know im a little late with this question, but how is it your able to safe guard the water from back syphoning if the power goes out? I am just starting a 270Gal tank and have 2 1 7/8" holes drilled in the center bottom of the tank about 2 ft apart from each other, and want to use them for retuns to add flow to my tank but am unsure how to plumb the tank. The tank is a acylic 270 and it has two built in overflows one on each side of the tank both of which have two holes drilled in them for drain & retun. Sorry for the hijacking of the tread just curious as to how your setup works. Thanks so much. Heres a link to my post asking this very question.

my 270 gallon post

You only need to worry about it if they go to the sump. Since mine goes to a closed loop the only place the water can go is back into the tank. I've shut down my closed loop pump many times without any fear of the tank draining.

I would never use holes in the bottom of the tank for return lines from a sump. It would be a lot better to take them over the top or drill some additional holes in the side of the tank. I went with over the top in my tank.

I believe strongly in Murphy’s Law so I would never use a check valve. It will fail eventually.

I took a look at your thread and congratulations on joining the large reef tank group.

mcrist · #**132** 05/10/2007, 02:29 PM

Toolguy942,

Of course size matters…why else would we have such a large volume of water in our homes.

mcrist · #**133** 05/10/2007, 02:34 PM

Von_Rahvin,

I was never sure on that information about the Mexican Turbo snails but I figured I would post it to see what other people thought. Thanks for your input.

Make sure you get that in writing before you buy your house.

Von_Rahvin · #**134** 05/10/2007, 05:19 PM

i'm not worried, her hobbies are as bad as mine. She spends more time looking at my 2 tanks now than i do.

mcrist · #**135** 05/10/2007, 05:31 PM

Damn, if my wife's hobbies was as expensive as mine we wouldn't be able to eat.

BILLYO382 · #**136** 05/11/2007, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mcrist
You only need to worry about it if they go to the sump. Since mine goes to a closed loop the only place the water can go is back into the tank. I've shut down my closed loop pump many times without any fear of the tank draining.

I would never use holes in the bottom of the tank for return lines from a sump. It would be a lot better to take them over the top or drill some additional holes in the side of the tank. I went with over the top in my tank.

I believe strongly in Murphy’s Law so I would never use a check valve. It will fail eventually.

I took a look at your thread and congratulations on joining the large reef tank group.

Thanks for the info. So I huess your saying I need to drill two more holes in the tank. One in each side and use those holes to run a water feed line and return line to my pump, so when the pump is cut off the water will stay in the line and not have the opportunity to feed back to the sump. Makes sense., basically the pump pulls the water out of the tank and feeds it back to the tank, so when its powered down, no water movement is occuring in the lines until the pump starts back. i think I understand now. thanks

mcrist · #**137** 05/11/2007, 09:07 AM

Yes that's it. I prefer over the top for a return line but a lot of people go through the side.

BILLYO382 · #**138** 05/11/2007, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mcrist
Yes that's it. I prefer over the top for a return line but a lot of people go through the side.

But i want to use the two holes at the bottom of the tank as returns to add flow down low in the tank inbetween the rocks ill have. I dont plan on drilling any more holes in my tank so I will use a over the top drain, idunno I guess i will have to drill two more holes in my tank, one in each side towards the top i guess. I dont know. I may just plug up the holes. B/c i dont want to have to complicate the tank setup. ill think on this though. thanks

mcrist · #**139** 05/11/2007, 05:04 PM

BILLYO382,

If you are using the holes in the bottom for a closed loop then there is no problem with using them as return lines. I did that same thing youâ€™re thinking about and I have eight holes in the bottom of the tank for return lines. I also have two feed lines in the side of the tank that feed the closed loop. This setup works perfectly for me. I thought you were referring to return lines for the sump. Sorry for the confusion.

mcrist · #**140** 05/11/2007, 05:09 PM

BILLYO382,

I almost forgot make sure you use the best quality bulkheads you can find for any holes in the bottom of the tank. The bottom of the tank is to critical for the cheap models that you find at all fish stores. I personally like Hayward brand.

Pete · #**141** 05/11/2007, 08:44 PM

Awesome tank, how many and what wattage and color temp are your MH?

mcrist · #**142** 05/11/2007, 09:33 PM

Pete,

Thanksâ€¦Currently I am only running three 250 watt metal halides with XM 15,000 mogul bulbs. I am looking into upgrading to either a Giesemann or a Sfiligo fixture but I havenâ€™t pulled the trigger yet.

Pete · #**143** 05/11/2007, 09:55 PM

Your lighting looks great, you aren't happy with its output?

mcrist · #**144** 05/29/2007, 12:45 PM

Updated photos from this weekend.

mcrist · #**145** 05/29/2007, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pete
Your lighting looks great, you aren't happy with its output?

Sorry, I never saw your reply. I hate it when I don’t get notified when I get a new post.

I am not pleased with my current fixture for several reasons:
1. My tank is 4 feet wide and this fixture doesn’t handle the width too well.
2. Prefer T5 over compact fluorescent.
3. Overall physical appearance is not very pleasing. I would like one that is much more compact and stylish since this will be a hanging fixture.

cbui2 · #**146** 05/29/2007, 02:03 PM

few LA3 reflectors will give you all the spread you need. my tank is 96"Lx48"Wx30"H have 3 LA3 with MH 400w and the spread is unbelievable. i have also added 3 reef optix v for the front and 8 36" uri super atinic. hope this helps

mhhauser321 · #**147** 05/29/2007, 02:12 PM

cool tank, its huge

Von_Rahvin · #**148** 05/29/2007, 02:40 PM

i still love the deep sand bed man. the returns coming out of it are crazy.

as for our combine hobbies, who really needs to eat anyway?

mcrist · #**149** 05/29/2007, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by cbui2
few LA3 reflectors will give you all the spread you need. my tank is 96"Lx48"Wx30"H have 3 LA3 with MH 400w and the spread is unbelievable. i have also added 3 reef optix v for the front and 8 36" uri super atinic. hope this helps

I have read good things about them but I do not like their physical appearance. If I would go with them I would either need to enclose my top or create a hood. I doubt I will find a fixture that can match their spread but I am still researching.

What wattage are you using in the 3 reef optix v?

cbui2 · #**150** 05/30/2007, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mcrist
I have read good things about them but I do not like their physical appearance. If I would go with them I would either need to enclose my top or create a hood. I doubt I will find a fixture that can match their spread but I am still researching.

What wattage are you using in the 3 reef optix v?

400w PFO HQI ballast, i have the pendents version enclosed in black powered coat. 3 14k hamilton reef optix v for the front and 3 20k HQI radium LA3 for the rear and 8 3' URI super atinic 4 each between reflectors. hope this helps