seaclone protein skimmer - Page 5

nebraskareef · #**101** 04/12/2005, 11:15 PM

he means, cut the whole collar off. Connect the maxi to some clear tubing, and wedge it inside the J tube. Bada-boom! you're skimming closer to the surface!

Meezer · #**102** 04/13/2005, 02:20 PM

Ok, I give. The bio-ball thing that you all keep talking about...is it to just drop a bio ball into the skimmer? I have a seaclone 100 on my 75-gal tank and not only doesn't it skim, it also releases a ton of tiny bubbles into my tank (which is royally ****ing me off!). I'm terrible at DIY, not allowed to touch any tools other than a hammer or I will land myself in the ER guaranteed....

dragon_slayer · #**103** 04/13/2005, 08:29 PM

no a bio-ball mod is taking a bio-ball and cutting it in half, then take one half and remove the center portion till the impeller of the MJ fits into it, then trim the length of the remainder of the 'prongs' till they are the same height as the impeller, then you have a needle wheel so to speak. it drastically increases flow from the pump IME and chops the bubbles to a very fine size.

kc

EDIT: This Should Help Clear It Up.

Originally posted by qwuintus

Here is your traditional bioball.
vio- la (sp?)

Use the utility knife/exacto to cut it in half. Cut the inside of the bioball so that the impellar fits inside it. Then use the serated blade to trim down the bio ball so t hat its the same height as the propellers. (ie. the white thing with 'arms')

It should fit in like so:

Just slide it in and tuck the propeller 'arms' in the gaps of the bioball.

Then just put it back together.

chineseknife · #**104** 04/13/2005, 09:16 PM

Nice pics!!!!!
What kind of bioball is that. I have heard that Lee's work well. That's what I heard anyway.
@nebraskareef- Wouldn't you lose some pressure that way or is a "wedge" a good enough connection that no harm is done in the air/water or pressure areas. However, I see what dragon was saying, after your explanation, sounds pretty simple. What size tubing?
ck

dragon_slayer · #**105** 04/14/2005, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by chineseknife
Nice pics!!!!!
What kind of bioball is that. ............

the pics were as indicated above Originally posted by qwuintus and I'm not positive who made the ball, there are many MFG's making similar ones.

i'm not sure of the tubing size, it snuggly fits over the output cone of the MJ and snuggly fits into (inside) the J tube, there is no restriction at all with it's use so performance is not compromised at all.

kc

shan820 · #**106** 04/14/2005, 10:57 AM

the trick is finding one and not a package of one hundred....
my seaclone is working moderately well with just the airstone mod, but I would rather try the bio ball

reefskunk · #**107** 04/14/2005, 03:29 PM

so you guys think the seaclone is worse than a prizm? I want to put one on my 5.5 bow, but i don't know if it'll fit or if its worth a ****. Anybody used a Via Aqua multi skimmer? Is it any good?

reefskunk · #**108** 04/14/2005, 03:37 PM

my tank is only 10 inches high, so i'm limited as far as HOB skimmers unless I make a fuge, which I dont. I think skimming is essential, seeing the difference my 29 custom Xtra high inhabitants showed after inserting one. please help

shan820 · #**109** 04/14/2005, 03:51 PM

Only 10" high? My seaclone 100 is much taller than that, I think the 75 is too.

dragon_slayer · #**110** 04/14/2005, 04:27 PM

on a 5.5g tank one is a fool to not use water changes as the main source of nutrient export. skimmers are mostly used for 'extra flow' on such small systems and this can be accomplished much more efficiently then installing an unnecessary skimmer.

kc

chineseknife · #**111** 04/14/2005, 08:51 PM

Dragon- for science purposes, how do you explain that? Why would a skimmer not be as necessary in a smaller tank as opposed tp regular water changes? Curious.
ck

dragon_slayer · #**112** 04/14/2005, 10:04 PM

well if $$$ wasn't such a large concern with large tanks water changes would be the top choice there as well. water changes do far more then a skimmer ever will be able to, they remove 100% of everything that 'was' in the water you removed, they just aren't cost effective on large systems.

kc

nebraskareef · #**113** 04/14/2005, 11:28 PM

When I had my 5.5 set up, I'd change 3 gal. a week. Tank was super clean all the time. Listen to Dragon, he knows what hes talking about.

Change 50-75% of your water weekly on that little bow....your corals will thank you!

chineseknife · #**114** 04/15/2005, 05:53 AM

What would be a typical extra water supply set-up, say, for in my garage. As of now I can only change about 10g every two weeks. I know, smack me on the wrist. I was hoping you, dragon, could advise me on a set-up that would allow me to change 15-20g a week. Any help here I would appreciate.
ck

dragon_slayer · #**115** 04/15/2005, 06:31 AM

pick up a RO/DI unit capable of making 100 GPD from Mark (melev) Click Here at a great price, this will give you about 5g of water every hour during the warmer times of the year. for 20g mix ups get a new, clean plastic trash can and a small pump for flow in the can, mix your salt for a day or two and adjust to match your tank before the change. thats about as simple as it gets.

if you don't have the $$$ for the RO/DI unit you can use 'Prime' to treat your tap water and use the trash can for mixing. the cost of the Prime may seam allot cheaper but in about a years time you'll have spent as much on it as the RO/DI unit.

kc

chineseknife · #**116** 04/15/2005, 06:49 AM

Prime will make the water safe? obviously it's no substitute for RO/DI, but if that's what it takes. Thanks dragon.
ck

shan820 · #**117** 04/15/2005, 08:00 AM

Conditioning your tap water is much cheaper, even in the long run. I dont know how you figure it could catch up to the RO/DI system in a year. In over a year I have only had to purchase 2 bottles for about 5 bucks a piece. Only a few drops is required. Maybe in 5 years I'll be up to the cost of a unit, but what is the lifetime of one? Do they require much maintenance? I know I should be avoiding tap water, but it is much more cost effective for me.

nebraskareef · #**118** 04/15/2005, 10:12 AM

In some areas Tap water is fine for use in reef aquariums. Is it the best or reccomended? no. Using pure water is the best choice you can make for your tank. But lets not forget one thing.

WE NEED TO BE BUFFERING OUR RO/DI BEFORE TOPPING OFF / MIXING SALT!!!!

it's that important.

shan820 · #**119** 04/15/2005, 10:49 AM

buffering with what?

chineseknife · #**120** 04/15/2005, 05:28 PM

Yes, by buffer you mean......?
ck

dragon_slayer · #**121** 04/16/2005, 08:26 AM

'buffers' do not evaporate from your system, as soon as the RO/DI water hits the tank it's buffered to the same as the tank, the only thing changing is the salinity. if your adding to it before your topping off your screwing with the chemistry of your tank water.

kc

nebraskareef · #**122** 04/16/2005, 10:28 AM

Man....

If you're right, I've been screwing my tank up for a long, long, long time. I've gotta research this, I feel like a complete moron. I don't mean to be spreading bad advice....

Daniel

mjstech · #**123** 04/18/2005, 01:44 AM

how did you guys remove the inside clear piece? my friend has one and i told him about the mod. do you have to remove the black 'gasket' on the top of the outter tube?

dragon_slayer · #**124** 04/18/2005, 05:16 AM

you take that O-ring out to remove the larger inner tube and then the smaller vortex tube can be wiggled out carefully. some i have ran across are glued in but for the most part i've found them only tightly wedged in.

kc