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#51
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Actual water volume is 540 gallons.
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Once you accept the Universe as matter expanding in to nothing that is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. A.E. |
#52
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How does the cost of building a wood tank compare to buying a custom glass or acrylic setup? Even if you don't count your time as money, are you saving a significant amount, or is this more just a labor of love?
And by the way, I'll definitely be tagging along on this one... I really want to see the end result! |
#53
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cnordstrom-
I think it's a little of both. We have been snowbound here (literally for several days) and I needed a project to keep me occupied. My last custom acrylic (first photo in thread) cost me $2200 for 270 gallons. This tank will be twice the size and not even reach $2000, I think. I did not price a custom 540 in the configuration I am making but I bet it would be at least $4000. Someone can confirm this if they know. There seems to be a 300 gallon rule-of-thumb with wood tanks. Above this size you save money, below, don't waste your time. Not really sure if this is true or not. So far, I've had much enjoyment and my friends are very skeptical, which adds to the enjoyment. Someone asked my wife (another wife) if we have saltwater flood insurance. Non-believers. Luckily, I've build a couple of drift boats and they still float. Same deal here, only backwards. Del
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Once you accept the Universe as matter expanding in to nothing that is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. A.E. |
#54
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I can confirm that a 96x36x30 with external coast to coast was in excess of 5500 Canadian. I figure that I can build a 581 or better tank for less then I was quoted for a 180g with external coast to coast.
Worth it if you have the skills and space. The epoxy and glass are the most expensive things. I just have to figure out if I need to use 1/2" or 3/4". I think if I go 36" tall glass I need 3/4". What do you guys think? KW
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"For the future of our beloved hobby and the industry please support the efforts made by so few to advance our knowledge and share what we love." --WaltSmith-- |
#55
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Del, that makes perfect sense. Personally, I'd probably have to go out and buy one, simply because I don't have the tools or the skill sets needed to build something like that. I'm working on a radiator cover right now, which is a hell of a lot simpler to do, and it's not looking anywhere near as nice as your tank!
It would be fun trying to build a 550 gallon tank in my fourth floor condo, though... I'm sure my wife, neighbors, and insurance company would love me! |
#56
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just imagine if he'd doubled up and over-lapped the ply; extending the length to 10 or 12 feet...
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#57
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Del, thanks for the info on the fiberglass. Got the 1st and 2nd coat of paint on the tank room and all the trim installed. Laying the linoleum this weekend. Thought I'd have that done already, but too many other things going on. Should start cutting my plywood right after the floor is in.
FWIW, called a couple of places this week on the glass and so far the cheapest price I've gotten for 1/2" thick, 70" by 33", starphire is $600. I had checked a few months ago, when I thought I was going to have the room to go bigger on a 84" by 30" and it was like $500. Don't know why it's more expensive now, for a smaller piece. They did quote tempered glass this time and I don't remember if that's what they quoted the first time or not. Don't know much about glass, maybe it's more expensive. Are you using tempered? and for those of you that have done this before, or are getting ready to, did you use tempered?
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Mark Bldg - 450 g in-wall plywd tank w/ 10'x15' tank room. Eq. to include: 3 400W MH's w/ Lumenarc III reflectors, PFO 400w HQI ballasts, ASM G-5, ASD Calc reactor, and CL on Darts (2 or 3). |
#58
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FWIW, called a couple of places this week on the glass and so far the cheapest price I've gotten for 1/2" thick, 70" by 33", starphire is $600
IMO if your going to go this tall you might want to go with 3/4" glass. Although tempered is stronger i , not going to use it on our new tank. If something falls into it, tempered is more likely to shatter than non tempered. |
#59
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@slandis3
Good tip! Thanks. I was debating on the Tempered glass myself. For 1/2" Starphire 96x30 Tempered was 650 Canadian. It is my understanding that glass is cheaper in Canada though. FWIW regular float glass in the same dimensions Un-Tempered was 300. I am shure that in 3/4" the price will go up a fair amount, Plus Starphire will require laminating two 1/2" pieces as it is not made in 3/4" I've been told/read. KW
__________________
"For the future of our beloved hobby and the industry please support the efforts made by so few to advance our knowledge and share what we love." --WaltSmith-- |
#60
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i was actually going to order my glass from canada because 10' sheets are so much cheaper there
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#61
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I wish I was ready for glass, I wish my tank room was done, I wish.....Oh, nevermind.
I was planning on going 1/2" since the pane is less than 30" tall. I have not tried to find low iron but that is the plan. I do not plan to use tempered for the reason slandis3 stated. If I can find low iron in 3/8" I'll look in to laminating it to 3/4". I just got a fantastic Flame wrasse harem and I can't wait to see the male displaying in the new tank. He is quite handsome in the Q-tank.
__________________
Once you accept the Universe as matter expanding in to nothing that is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. A.E. |
#62
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What kind of glass to wood overlap are you doing?
While the actual inside height of mine will be 33", the actual viewing opening will only be about 27" or 28". I want the bottom wood panel to come up about 4" to hide most of the DSB. So, if I only need a 1" overlap, I can cut the glass size down to 29" or 30". Save some money and get away with 1/2" thick.
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Mark Bldg - 450 g in-wall plywd tank w/ 10'x15' tank room. Eq. to include: 3 400W MH's w/ Lumenarc III reflectors, PFO 400w HQI ballasts, ASM G-5, ASD Calc reactor, and CL on Darts (2 or 3). |
#63
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Hay that sounds a lot like what I did I am also going to hide plumbing in the front too.
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#64
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Pretty much the same here Mark. My ovelap is about 1 1/2" and I built the same bottom lip to hide much of the sand. I also cut a "shelf" on the bottom inside corner brace so the glass can actually sit on the lip which should eliminate all sheer forces in the silicone. You could do the same thing by letting the glass sit on the bottom of the tank but then you wouldn't have the corner brace.
I will run one of the CLs under the sand to the front of the tank and then fire it back.
__________________
Once you accept the Universe as matter expanding in to nothing that is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. A.E. |
#65
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That is a good idea I could put a 1by to make the ledge to set the glass on I was thinking of putting a little v grove to use the weight of the glass to seal it to the side.
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#66
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With the top bracing in place, how do you plan to get the glass inside?
__________________
Mark Bldg - 450 g in-wall plywd tank w/ 10'x15' tank room. Eq. to include: 3 400W MH's w/ Lumenarc III reflectors, PFO 400w HQI ballasts, ASM G-5, ASD Calc reactor, and CL on Darts (2 or 3). |
#67
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Good question. A fellow by the name of Pythagoras helped me out with this one. I sized the top braces so the glass will fit through the top on the diagonal (hypotenuse) of the triangle. I'll have about an inch clearance to spare. Length squared plus width squared = diagonal squared.
__________________
Once you accept the Universe as matter expanding in to nothing that is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. A.E. |
#68
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Gottcha, thought that might be the case, but wanted to check. I'll have to pull out my daughter's geometry book.
__________________
Mark Bldg - 450 g in-wall plywd tank w/ 10'x15' tank room. Eq. to include: 3 400W MH's w/ Lumenarc III reflectors, PFO 400w HQI ballasts, ASM G-5, ASD Calc reactor, and CL on Darts (2 or 3). |
#69
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Quote:
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Dave :~) |
#70
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Just got off the phone with Binswanger Glass again and now that I've dropped the glass size from 70" by 33" to 70" by 30", and changed it to non-tempered, the price has dropped from $600 to only $430. More in line with what I was hoping for.
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Mark Bldg - 450 g in-wall plywd tank w/ 10'x15' tank room. Eq. to include: 3 400W MH's w/ Lumenarc III reflectors, PFO 400w HQI ballasts, ASM G-5, ASD Calc reactor, and CL on Darts (2 or 3). |
#71
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On the top, looks like you just ran the top (eurobracing) along the front and sides, and not down the back. Is that true? or did I miss it in the pictures.
Also, what did you use to apply the epoxy? Brush, roller, etc.
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Mark Bldg - 450 g in-wall plywd tank w/ 10'x15' tank room. Eq. to include: 3 400W MH's w/ Lumenarc III reflectors, PFO 400w HQI ballasts, ASM G-5, ASD Calc reactor, and CL on Darts (2 or 3). |
#72
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In theory Pythagoras is great--- as long as he abides by Murphy's Laws...
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#73
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I am floored by this project. I had a fantasy dream about this exact kind of build and instead I chickened out and put up a glass 180. (the house didn't really support a much bigger tank anyway)
I still have those little thoughts about this adventure being in my future. For now I will live vicariously through your photos! I have to work on talking the hubby in to it for the next house. It looks like you have some serious skills. I can't wait to see the progress. Thanks for sharing!!
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#74
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Mark-
The Euro-brace is front and sides with a modified brace on the back of the overflow box. You can kind of see it in the second photo, page 2. Better photo to come. I really couldn't use a full euro across the back and still be able to get in the overflow to work. First coat of epoxy/fiberglass is applied with a squeegee to take out most of the epoxy. You don't want the fiberglass to float in the epoxy, you want it to be glued to the wood. Subsequent coats were brushed on. aztbs - thanks, and go for it. I'll be down your way next month.
__________________
Once you accept the Universe as matter expanding in to nothing that is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. A.E. |
#75
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Does the epoxy make the tank waterproof by itself or do you need to apply the paint to seal it?
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