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#51
09/15/2007, 12:30 AM
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#52
09/16/2007, 02:53 AM
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here is an updated design. Im working on the pump plumping. It seems the venturi that came with the pump is longer than the one use on the orca skimmers. Anyways, im trying to decide if it is worth adding a gate valve to the design?
  landy |
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#53
09/16/2007, 08:10 AM
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why do you want a gate valve in the intake side of the pump?
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#54
09/16/2007, 09:03 AM
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so he can controll the amount of water going into the skimmer. the orca skimmers use a small venturi that is right at the pump inlet, and not the ones supplied with the nw pump. the volcano skimmers have a gate valve there, so id put one there too.
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#55
09/16/2007, 09:05 AM
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i dont see any unions to make dissasembly possible.
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#56
09/16/2007, 11:26 AM
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are there any advatages to using the supplied venturi? this thing is like 3.5" long.
as for the unions, i need to put them in, but if i do the pump will be even further away from the skimmer. I will have to have at least one on the intake side, but i might be able to get away without one on the output as it will have a uniseal for a bulkhead. landy |
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#59
09/25/2007, 09:06 PM
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Thats pretty sweet! My brother owns a machine shop but all of his CNC machines are the typical spindle (if thats the correct word to use) type. I imagine that the laser would have a cleaner edge (you can see the shine in the photos) plus you probably don't have to mess with the lubricant stuff.
__________________
Vice President Omaha Marine Society Coral Tees Frag Plug Designer (Click my Red House) |
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#60
09/26/2007, 12:15 AM
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  Only got one piece cut for the kalk reactor tonight, it took 45 minutes to grove it for the tubing  . turned out perfect.landy |
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#61
09/26/2007, 04:51 PM
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Did you groove it with the laser?
Nice parts! The DIY aspect of this hobby sure has been taken to another level with all you CNC guys around here! I'd LOVE to play with one of those toys...
__________________
"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
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#62
09/26/2007, 06:28 PM
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 , i only get to draw the cut sheets. My girlfriend is the one with the sweet job that has a laser cnc, actually they have two.landy |
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#63
09/26/2007, 06:42 PM
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I wonder if gluing the lasered edges causes crazing? I know if you you try to glue a flame polished edge it'll darn near explode. I'm sure the lazer is pretty quick in its cut, but it crossed my mind...
A good question for James too I guess. Sweet project Landy.
__________________
"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
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#64
09/26/2007, 07:04 PM
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Not sure, i glued the bottom on the kalk reactor last night, and it was pretty uneventful. What would cause it to “craze”. The fact that it has been heated? That doesn’t make any sense because about any way you cut it will create heat? |
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#65
09/26/2007, 07:33 PM
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I know that laser edges arent always as 'square' as needed, and that the heat can seal the capilaries in the plastic, making it more resistant to bonding across an uneven surface. www.firstclassaquatics.com uses a laser cutter as well, and from some custom parts he has done for me, he gave me that warning as well, suggesting that I go back and sand the bonding edges to be safe. The heat from a router is alot less than a laser... a router/saw is using a mechanical edge to remove material. A laser is using heat... to burn the material away... big difference in heat. I wouldnt worry too much... just sand the bond surfaces and/or follow up all the capillary bonds with fillets of weldon16 as reinforcement.
__________________
"If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it" -Al Einstein |
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#66
09/26/2007, 08:42 PM
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landy |
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#67
09/26/2007, 11:17 PM
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100-200 should be plenty fine.
__________________
"If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it" -Al Einstein |
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#72
10/05/2007, 10:44 AM
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for the record....i have a 30" by 10" skimmer and use 1/8" wall cast acrylic. there are no problems with strength...to be honest i think someone could technically go with smaller. b/c it's round the pressure forces work against each other almost cancelling each other out. therefore a smaller wall for tubing can withstand MUCH more pressure. unless your going to hit it with a bat while it's filled with water then i would use 1/8" wall tubing all around. it may even withstand a bat...the strength properties of a cylindar are much different that of flat surfaces...
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#73
10/05/2007, 06:26 PM
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...i think 1/8" would have been fine, but i KNOW 1/4" will thanks for your input landy |
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#75
10/05/2007, 08:07 PM
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Yes I do  landy |
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