diy wavebox with pic - Page 3

jwardana · #51 05/26/2006, 07:12 AM

> Here is the link translated to english using Google.

Thanks, Sohal11. Can you tell me how to did it using google?

Jim.

jwardana · #52 05/27/2006, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by H20ENG
Nice work!

H20Eng,
I've just checked your galery, understanding that you're an expert in acrylic made design. Do you have any suggestion about my diy solenoid to make it more perfect? Or maybe another design that will work?

TIA,
Jim.

H20ENG · #53 05/28/2006, 01:31 PM

Looks like you did just fine. You dont want to build an acrylic box that gets pressurized. You probably could fit this into a larger pvc tee, but your design is probably the best using those components.
I cant imagine listening to that contactor coil though. Those large contactors are LOUD!
You could possibly build it like a sprinkler valve, using a tiny solenoid and letting differential pressure work for you. BUT The response time would not be as fast.
I also wonder how long the coil will last with such a heavy duty-cycle.
You DO have a heckuva cool setup

iloveinn · #54 05/29/2006, 04:14 AM

Good work... definitely looks cheaper than the Tunze

jwardana · #55 05/31/2006, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by iloveinn
Good work... definitely looks cheaper than the Tunze

Thank you.

FYI, just recently also I built another diy wb using another kind of submersible pump. Take a look at this pic below, what do you call this kind of submersible pump?

This submersible pump has diferent impeller mechanism compared to the ones we commonly use for our tanks. After examining the impeller mechanism I believe that the impeller won't break easily even if I use it as my wb pump. Using this pump, diy wb will be built more easily than the previous one I've been done.
But unfortunately this pump (mine is 200w) wont be able to produce wave higher than the one I built using airpump. At the same tank water height this submersible pump will only produce half wave height compared to the one I built using a 130w airpump. Definitely the one I designed using airpump is more effisien. I cant explain why this 200w pump will only produce half height but that's the reality. JFYI.

Jim.

H20ENG · #56 05/31/2006, 05:10 PM

jwardana
That is a common sump pump, used for pumping out catch basins, etc. A few problems in using them in this type of setup:

- The duty cycle for a wavebox is VERY high and will burn up this type of pump in short order.
-As you mentioned, high wattage draw.
-The seal is most likely not salt water safe and will corrode the pump shaft

This is why Tunze has the market with their soft start pumps. The duty cycle kills every other pump quickly.

I was thinking you could have a small variable speed gearmotor turn a cam to actuate your air valve diaphram. This way it would be fairly quiet, would handle the duty cycle no problem if high lubricity plastics were used, and still use the efficient air pump.

boatbuilder · #57 05/31/2006, 07:02 PM

'scuze me if this sounds a bit stoopid (i'm cajun)
wouldn't the constant back and forth action of the water tear a tank apart at the seams, given enough time that is

H20ENG · #58 05/31/2006, 07:12 PM

It does put added stress on tank seams, yes. Tunze notes this in their literature.

humbugy · #59 05/31/2006, 09:48 PM

reverse flow carslon surge device

http://petsforum.com/cis-fishnet/seascope/00SS1705.htm

similar thing, for ideas

iloveinn · #60 06/01/2006, 01:29 PM

Interesting, so it basically sucked as it moves water

.

jwardana · #61 06/06/2006, 11:02 PM

H20Eng,

> The seal is most likely not salt water safe and will corrode the
> pump shaft

I've just take a look, and yes it seems that there's a body of something inside that is made of stainless steel (I believe it's not a saltawter proof SS). Thanks for remind me.

Jim.

Zedar · #62 06/08/2006, 08:44 AM

Awesome!!!!!!! great job jwardana

If you were to design your overflow box to be on the opposite side of the wavebox you could have the apex of the wave dump water out of the tank into a sump.

You would need to match the return pump to the wave or lower or raise the lip of the overflow to match the return pump.

Looks like it would be a great way to push the particulates out of the tank.

What a radical design.

Thanks for sharing this

jwardana · #63 06/10/2006, 11:45 PM

> Awesome!!!!!!! great job jwardana

Thanks.

> If you were to design your overflow box to be on the
> opposite side of the wavebox you could have the apex
> of the wave dump water out of the tank into a sump.

Yes, I forget to tell you all about it. Running my diy wavebox along with the return pump gives me a new experience (my overflow box is on one side of the tank, not in the middle of the tank). It’s like this: about the water level in your sump, when your return pump is not working there’ll be a certain point of the water level (let’s call it Point A) which is higher than when the return pump is working (Point B), right? But after runnnig my diy wavebox, the water level (point C) is higher that Point A. So absolutely, running a tank circulation with a wb makes the water level in the tank LOWER than the lip of the overflow box. According to some experiments Ive done, how low is the water level of the tank depends on how high I set the wave, the higher wave will push more water to the overflow box which will make the water level in the tank lower (and of course higher water level in the sump). Beware of this!

> Looks like it would be a great way to push the particulates out of the tank.

To be honest, not really. You’ll still need a good close loop pump to make the particulates being carried away from its original position. But I am not sure as I am now still running (testing) my diy wb without a close loop pump. I have some particulates right now which are only moved to right-left direction.

Jim.

jwardana · #64 06/24/2006, 08:54 AM

Hi all,
just updating the progress of my diy solenoid: after using 2 nuts to keep the diapragm in place a few weeks ago, the solenoid is still working til now.

Jim.

jwardana · #65 08/15/2006, 10:34 AM

hello all,
seeing another subject about diy wb, I just want to share it once more.

update: also that I've run it since then. This time the tank filled up with mostly LPS. And I dont think it is wise to set the wave height at full, so I just set it at about 2-3cm high.

Jim.

calvin415 · #66 08/15/2006, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jwardana

This is the closer look at the diy solenoid. The bigger hole is the air output while the smaller one is the input. This smaller hole is 1" tapped.

Another angle of the solenoid showing the electronic contactor/relay (Im not sure this is the right word to use, please tell me what you call it. Thanks)

To the center (the moving part of the contactor) attached a cut bolt.

Jim.

Where did you get this contractor and the timer? Any web links? Can you list manufacturer and model number?

calvin415 · #67 08/15/2006, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by H20ENG
You dont want to build an acrylic box that gets pressurized.

Why couldn't this be done with acrylic as well?

jwardana · #68 08/16/2006, 08:58 PM

Calvin415,

basically, the magnetic contactor and the timer are common in electrical/indutrial store. I've chekced mcmaster.com. They have the contactor though not actually the same.

Jim.

jwardana · #69 09/20/2006, 11:20 AM

bump. trying to share it once more.

Jim.

H20ENG · #70 09/20/2006, 01:07 PM

"Why couldn't this be done with acrylic as well?"
I'd say the valve could easily be acrylic, but a large box in the tank would have to be good 1/2"thick to handle the stress. Not impossible, but I'd simply use pipe

Still holding up well Jim?

jwardana · #71 11/03/2006, 01:10 AM

>Still holding up well Jim?

Well, the problem is dust clogging. I have to clean it up every month.

Jim

H20ENG · #72 11/03/2006, 01:14 AM

Several people have built boxes for their air pumps with a large HEPA filter (for a household furnace) covering the opening, thus all intake air is filtered.
This may help your situation.