Come with me on my Custom 77 Gallon setup - Page 29

rdmpe · #**701** 11/14/2006, 07:39 AM

Sorry to hear about the sailfin, were you feeding it plenty of veggies? Was active and swimming upright?

On the two part and testing, I asked in the chemestry forum one time and the consensus was that you can test fairly soon after testing, once you feel confident that it has been mixed in well. If you have good flow, I would think 1/2 hour or so would be plenty of time for mixing.

Haven't set up the dosing pump yet? I have mine dialed in pretty steady these days. Something wierd is going on with my two-channel drip set so my ALK channel is dripping faster than my calcium. So I just set it up so that the calcium is steady, then diluted the ALK with 3 cups of ro/di per gallon which puts my dosing numbers just right. I just had to test a few times to get it tweaked. The next time I have to replace the flexible tubing that goes over the rotor, I'll replace both channels and cut them exactly the same length. That should bring the channels to approx. the same drip rate...

I have been thinking about either getting a small third dosing pump to do kalk or going with an aquadoser triple. I want to try to stabilize my PH more overnight with kalk. But haven't gotten around to working on it yet.

Stile2 · #**702** 11/22/2006, 03:18 PM

Sorry I haven't replied but I never got any notification of replies.

Preparing for tomorrow so can't fully reply now, have a good Thanksgiving everyone.

Keith

Stile2 · #**703** 11/30/2006, 11:34 AM

I can't believe it!!

I woke up to find the tank at 75.0F. My Reefkeeper 2 is set to turn on the heater at 78.0F.

I popped another heater. Finnex Titanium 500W heater. I have determined that it must be the Reefkeeper 2. There is only one turn on/turn off point 78.0F. So when the temp gets there the Reefkeeper 2 turns the heater on and off rapidly for minutes at a time and I just don't think the heaters can take that. I moved my back up heater to it's own controller and taken the Reefkeeper 2 out of the loop.

We'll see how it does.

I am going to post a complaint on the Reefkeeper forum as well. Maybe if they changed how the heater works it wouldn't do this. Maybe turn on at 78.0F and off at 78.5F, that way it wouldn't cycle so rapidly.

rdmpe · #**704** 11/30/2006, 12:27 PM

Another thing to check - make sure your heater is not near your temp sensor, and the heater should be further downstream from your sensor so the warm water has to go clear through the whole tank before hitting your temp sensor.

Stile2 · #**705** 11/30/2006, 01:30 PM

the senor is in the fuge and the heater is near the return pump.

dandy7200 · #**706** 11/30/2006, 02:35 PM

That sucks man. The RK just has a single point for temp control? I bet your right as to the cause if that is the case. It may be better to just use a integated control on your heater instead of just the tube and replace it once a year or so.

melev · #**707** 11/30/2006, 02:56 PM

I believe the way that is supposed to work is you turn up the heater's temperature yourself to a higher setting, and let the RK2 turn it on and off for you. Let us know what you find out though.

My heaters are dialed in around 81F I guess, but the Aqua Controller II turns them on at 79F and turns them off at 79.5F

I have two heaters plugged in currently, and a third that is ready in case of an emergency (unplugged until needed). Heaters should be 3w per gallon, so be careful not to overdo it with that 500w heater. A 250w would be plenty, unless your home is in the 50s.

bklynmet · #**708** 11/30/2006, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by melev
I believe the way that is supposed to work is you turn up the heater's temperature yourself to a higher setting, and let the RK2 turn it on and off for you. Let us know what you find out though.

My heaters are dialed in around 81F I guess, but the Aqua Controller II turns them on at 79F and turns them off at 79.5F

I have two heaters plugged in currently, and a third that is ready in case of an emergency (unplugged until needed). Heaters should be 3w per gallon, so be careful not to overdo it with that 500w heater. A 250w would be plenty, unless your home is in the 50s.

Kieth, I agree with M. I have my AC Jr set to turn on the heaters at 77 and off at 77.6. The heaters are dialed in at around 79deg - in case the AC doesn''t turn them off, the worst it'll be is 79 deg.

I also have two separate 150W heaters plugged into a strip that is plugged into the AC Jr. Two reduces chances of both failing at one time. They keep my 75G with sump and fuge plenty warm.
Code should look like this:
If Temp < 77 then HTR = ON
If Temp > 77.6 then HTR = OFF

This translates into the variable HTR being ON after temp dips below 77. It'll stay ON until the time the Temp is greater than 77.6.

Hope this helps.

Stile2 · #**709** 11/30/2006, 10:31 PM

Marc & bklynmet,

I completely agree and have my heater set up the same way as far as the Reefkeeper 2 will let me.

My heater controller is set for about 81F, but the Reefkeeper 2 turns the heater on as soon as the temp dips below 79F and off as soon as the temp hits 79F. As a result the temp flutuates between 78.9F and 79F once every 5-15 seconds when it is right on that temp. Which in turn, I believe, is burning out my heaters. This is the third heater of different manufacturers and different styles I have gone through.

At this point I wish I had of bought an AC jr!!!

melev · #**710** 12/01/2006, 12:11 AM

What do the Reefkeeper people say? Is it really set with 0.1 degree difference?

Stile2 · #**711** 12/01/2006, 02:11 AM

I still need to post in their forum. Master's classes are killing me right now, barely have time to look at my tank let alone anything else. I'll post there tomorrow morning.

Stile2 · #**712** 12/01/2006, 08:43 AM

I added to a thread in the Digital Aquatics forum about the exact heater issue I am having. I guess lots of people are having the same issue. They suggest a hard reset will fix it. I'll try that tonight.

Here is my post.
I have the same issue on my RK2 of the temp fluctuating from 78.9 to 79 and has now blown two heaters!! Channel five, the sensor is in the fuge and the heater is near the return (other end of the system).

I will try the reset, but a .4 or .5 degree gap between on and off or a programable on and off (two settings) should be incorporated into the next firmwware update.

Keith

Here is the thread. Link

We'll See!!

rdmpe · #**713** 12/02/2006, 10:50 AM

Hey Keith, did the RK2 reset fix your heater issue?

Stile2 · #**714** 12/02/2006, 11:40 AM

I have reset and reprogrammed the RK2, but it is hard to tell if anything is changed. I have channel 5 set up for a heater, but as my only back up heater is being used right now I hesitate to plug it into the RK2. I have it running on it's own controller right now. I am trying to keep an eye on the RK2 to see if the channel 5 is turning on and off rapidly, but it's hard to catch at the right moment.

I'll try to play with it later today by setting the turn on temp to whatever the tank is and keep a close eye on it.

I'll post when I figure it out. Digital Aquatics claims that the rapid turning on and off shouldn't hurt the heater, but I have lost two of them. So I don't think I buy that. I am trying to talk them into two settings for a heater, one on and one off.

Stile2 · #**715** 12/04/2006, 12:13 PM

Melev posted this in the Digital Aqutics Forum, I thought it would be better to discuss this here. So I wanted to repost his comment here.

Keith, your heater is really too much for that tank. At 3w per gallon, and your tank being a 77g system, I would think a 250w heater would be plenty. If that heater ever were to stick on, it would easily cook your tank. At the very least, it would be wiser to have two 200w heaters instead, as neither has the power to heat the tank too much independantly.

Usually, 3w per gallon divided between two heaters is best. You're located in California, so the climate is relatively mild compared to our buddies on the frozen east coast. (Current temp here is 26F btw!)

Melev,
I understand the concern about the heater. My tank is 77 gallon my system is closer to 100 gallons. Although we live in California we live in the foothills at about 3500 ft, so last night it got down to 29F. Not nearly as cold as back east, or even where you are.

I have tried a 250 W heater before and it just didn't seem to be able to keep up at night. I woke up in the morning several times and while the controller was set at 79F the temp in the tank was 76F. That is when I made the decision to over power the heater a bit. And granted it is definately over powered.

The thing is my tank never goes below 78.8F with the 500W heater. And doesn't go above 82.5 with the chiller. I don't have whole house AC or heat and the house was built in 1956 so doesn't have great insulation either.

As for the heater getting stuck on. My first Finnex heater to die on the RK2 I believe stuck on. The Finnex has an internal fuse which popped when it got to hot. I think that any heater could cook your tank no matter what wattage, it is really a matter of speed to cook. The bigger the heater the faster it will happen.

I will keep a close eye on the heater. I think that it can be the deadliest piece of equipment that is in the tank.

Thanks
Keith

dandy7200 · #**716** 12/04/2006, 12:39 PM

How about trying two smaller heaters as Marc suggested and setting them both for 81. Then setting the controller to turn on heater #1 @ 78 degrees and heater #2 at 77 degrees. Also in he meantime until the RK issues are worked out I would get a couple desk lamps and plug one in to share the heater circuit that way you have a visual indication when wour heater is on or flickering.

Stile2 · #**717** 12/04/2006, 12:46 PM

The desk lamp is a brillant idea!! I guess that's why you get the big bucks! I am going to do that as soon as I get home. Thanks

If I go with the two smaller heaters I will have to order some new ones as I am on the only back up heater I had.

I'll look into it. Remember that I am going to expand the system as soon as my garage remodel is done and will be close to 200 to 250 gallon total system volume. So I don't really want to spend extra money if I don't have to.

Thanks again for the lamp idea.

melev · #**718** 12/04/2006, 03:27 PM

The lamp idea is great. I'm always wanting little LED lights to indicate if stuff is powered up or not, but don't know how to go about doing any of that.

It would be so nice to have three tiny LEDs on the front of the tank in a spot that isn't obvious so I can make sure all three circuits are on as I walk by to the kitchen.

dandy7200 · #**719** 12/04/2006, 04:01 PM

Marc, that could be done pretty easy and cheap if you used Christmas lights. Replace the cord that runs in series connecting all the bulbs with a single wire with one socket and bulb of your choice.

gkarshens · #**720** 12/05/2006, 09:34 AM

Keith I have never had that problem with my RK2. I have even noticed that the channel stays on after the temp reads 79 in my tank for a little while. Maybe the reset will fix it. I do agree that it would be nice to have 2 temp settings though.

Stile2 · #**721** 12/06/2006, 12:43 AM

Well, definately not good news on the RK2 front. I plugged in a lamp and when the temp gets to the cutoff setting, the lamp flickers about 10 times for around 1/4 to 1/2 second per. My guess is that is not good for a heater.

I'm going to let them know in the DA forum and see what they have to say.

Stile2 · #**722** 12/15/2006, 11:12 AM

I have had the lamp attached to the RK2 and it is still flickering on and off when at the cutoff temp. I am going to email Digital Aquatics to see what can be done. I haven't dealt with it in a little while now because life is rather busy.

I did make some new RHF 2 part last night. I was running out. Being a teacher I have the next two weeks off so will be doing some tank maintainence.

I have a ton of plans for the tank. Dosing pump for Alk and Calcium, frag tank, new skimmer, possible kalk reactor to help with pH at night, and bigger chiller (possibly DIY). But all of that is going to wait until after I get a fishroom. The city has the corrected plans for the new garage so hopefully permits next week. Construction probably won't start until after the 1st of the year, but should be done by May. Which means that during the summer all the above will at least be started.

Keith

dandy7200 · #**723** 12/15/2006, 03:08 PM

I feel you on the permit process. It is a never ending load of BS

I thought I would be in full swing production with my cabinet buisiness by now but, I'm just finally getting all my tools out of storage and setting things up.

Stile2 · #**724** 12/17/2006, 10:28 AM

I did some tests last night.

Salinity 1.0255
Calcium 397 ppm
Alk 9.39 dKh

Stile2 · #**725** 12/17/2006, 10:29 AM

double post opps?