Durso's 180 gallon in wall tank.

[original-reefland]

Originally posted by melev
You gotta name that fish. How about Mr. E. Lusive?

At least now I have proof I bought that fish. My family was thinking I was crazy talking about a fish nobody else can see. Hiding under the sand for a week at a time.

I'm not crazy I tell ya!!!

[original-reefland]

I decided it was time to hook up my K2R calcium reactor. It's tiny by todays standards for calcium reactors but it will do for now. I've been having trouble keeping Ca and Alkalinity levels elevated with the kalk reactor alone. This may be part of the problem I've had with a few corals recently.

Most upsetting is my 8 year old elegance coral within the past few days released more than 70% of its flesh from the skeleton. This is not a RTN, it actually lets go but yet includes little chunks of skeleton in its flesh. I've had 100% failure yet in keeping any of these small sections alive. Within 48 hours it turns to mush.

These are 6 to 8 inch sections free floating around the tank. I've tried crazy glue (still releases), tied it down (flesh splits), I haven't tried bridal vale yet. I currently have some in a specimen container - fully expanded so far. Anyway.. back to the reactor.

I'm not going to run the reactor aggressive, I just need a small boost in levels for now. I reused some A.R.M. media that I had in it over two years ago when I last used the reactor. Seemed to have a bit more fine dust in it than I thought as the tank got pretty cloudy when I hooked up the feed pump.

I have the Aquacontroller Pro monitoring system pH and it is using the following rules:

If pH < 7.9 Then CO2 OFF (kills power to regulator)
If pH > 7.95 Then CO2 ON

I performed some test as a baseline to tune the reactor:

Temp: 80.4*F
pH: 8.18
35 PPT
Alkalinity: 12 dKH
Calcium: 320 PPM

I think the elevated alkalinity level is from the calcium dust in the water. I tested again 3 hours later (water was pretty clear) yet got the same results. I was expecting something closer to 9 dKH.

I currently have the reactor running at:

60ml/min
65 bubbles/min

I don't have a 9 volt battery for the pH monitor for the effluent, but its to soon to test for that. I'll pick up a battery tomorrow.

[original-reefland]

Got a 9V battery for the PinPoint pH probe monitoring the effluent of the calcium reactor. It was showing 6.8 which is usually perfect. But since I'm using ARM media and I don't have a tank loaded with coral I dialed it back a little by reducing the bubble count slightly (down to about 55ish/min). A few hours later the effluent pH was at 7.0 which is about right. ARM media says to run the reactor at 7.5 but that's a bit high. IMO.

Alkalinity dropped as expected to 10 dKH now that the sediment settled out of the water. A slight increase in calcium levels were detect, now showing 350 ppm.

No sign of the wrasse since I took its picture.

[original-reefland]

Been another 8 days since I've seen the wrasse. I'm giving up on him. Might as well not have one!

Sadly most of the 8 year old elegance is now gone. Sections of fully expanded healthy flesh seperated from the skeltons. From a coral that was 16x8x10 when fully expanded, I now have a small 4 inch part left still attached. I busted up the skelton and removed the small part and moved it up higher in the tank with less flow. It is fully expanded and looking great. As long as it does not detach it should do well.

On a better note, water parameters are holding steady with the reactor back on line. Alk is at 11.2 dKH and calcium is at 350ppm.

SPS corals are holding steady, some are doing fanstastic and some are still questionable. The halide on the right side of the tank has been out nearly 2 weeks. Part of the delay was waiting for AB to ship out a new ignitor which I was told finally shipped today.

Side project of getting two 80w HO T5 bulbs added for some additional actinic isn't going well. The replacement bulb that broke in shipping arrived. Hooked everything up, pluged it in and both bulbs light up for a second and then power off. Left a message in the IceCap forum for next steps. Odds are I'll have to mail the ballast to IceCap.

[melev]

Rich, when I talked with IceCap about VHO bulbs, the issue is how the bulb is in the endcaps if they flick on for one second and shut off. Usually one bulb won't light when the other does, so focus on the dark one. Also, do not turn the ballast on and off rapidly to force it to start. You must wait 15 seconds between powering off and restarting because there is some component in the ballast (430 and 660) that need time to cool off briefly.

I don't know if you are using the same ballast for your T5's, but thought I'd share this with you in case it helps.

Sorry about your wrasse.

[original-reefland]

Originally posted by melev
Rich, when I talked with IceCap about VHO bulbs, the issue is how the bulb is in the endcaps if they flick on for one second and shut off. Usually one bulb won't light when the other does, so focus on the dark one. Also, do not turn the ballast on and off rapidly to force it to start. You must wait 15 seconds between powering off and restarting because there is some component in the ballast (430 and 660) that need time to cool off briefly.

I was waiting about 45 seconds between attempts. Both bulbs clearly come on and then turn off. It's not a matter of one turning on and the other does not. I also did a continuity test across the pins to confirm they are wired correctly (they would read completely open or infinite if I had an open circuit). For the two bulb configuration on the 430 ballast I got:

Across the blue wires: 2.6, Red: 2.5 and Yellow: 4.2 which are all numbers I would expect (yellow would be double since they cross two bulbs no just one).

Perhaps tomorrow I get some shop lights and put some old T12 sockets on just to make sure the ballast can light something.

[original-reefland]

Picked up a fairy wrasse and a golden maxima clam which kind of has a neat teardrop like pattern. This is the first clam in the new tank so I got one that wasn't expensive yet still interesting. It's been in the tank a few hours now. Fully expanded, reacting to shadows but sure is gaping a lot.

As expected the wrasse dove into the rocks when released and hasn't been seen since. (I don't have the Q-tank ready yet, it's on the task list).

Packed up the IceCap ballast to mail it back. Hopefully they find what the issue is. It'll be in the mail tomorrow.

[original-reefland]

Added a second Dual TDS meter to my RO/DI setup. I wanted to monitor the Tap water TDS and for now I used a second on the DI cartridge. If I even add a second DI cartridge then I'll have a sensor ready for it.



The numbers pictured were a few minutes after I turned on the pump and it is showing 97.5% rejection which I think is a bit low.

After running for about an hour its showing 244 and 4 which is about 98.3% rejection which is pretty good for a membrane that is 4 years old this month.

[Electrobes]

Jeez 4 year old mambrane!? - I just ordered some new RO/DI parts from my brand of filter I used "Aqua-Safe" or something like that. I was worried that my 1 year old membrane was getting old... I definitely thing my DI is old.

I am curious as to why you are thinking about adding another DI cartridge? I thought that was considered useless?

How much was that TDS meter you have there, and where is it from? I am interested in getting a TDS meter for Christmas and I like thr fact that the one you have doesn't look like a pen one but a constant measuring one (seriously wish I had one now). Thanks

[Electrobes]

Lordie, sorry for the typing.. it's been a rough morning...

[original-reefland]

Originally posted by Electrobes
Jeez 4 year old mambrane!? - I just ordered some new RO/DI parts from my brand of filter I used "Aqua-Safe" or something like that. I was worried that my 1 year old membrane was getting old... I definitely thing my DI is old.

I'd rather change it every 2 years, but its been doing a great job. I think I'll probably change it out before the end of the year.

I am curious as to why you are thinking about adding another DI cartridge? I thought that was considered useless?

Well I'm not serious about it. But a second one does pick up the slack when the first one starts going bad. When you replace them, the second one becomes the first one and the new one goes in the second slot.

How much was that TDS meter you have there, and where is it from? I am interested in getting a TDS meter for Christmas and I like thr fact that the one you have doesn't look like a pen one but a constant measuring one (seriously wish I had one now). Thanks

I think it was around $25 or so, I got it from Marine Depot. It has two probes on it with John Guest fittings. Just cut your existing line and slide both ends of your lines into the fittings. Takes about 10 seconds to install.

[original-reefland]

Clam is doing great. It spun itself around a bit but otherwise has not moved from the rock I placed it on.

I got to see the new fairy wrasse this morning, but it was a dried up crisp on the floor of the reef room.

[melev]

RICH!

How about a nice docile damsel.

[Electrobes]

Man.. sorry to hear, same way I found my six-line months after having him.

[original-reefland]

I've been thinking of a school of 15 to 20 blue eyed cardinals. But the tank is not mature enough for that yet. I was also thinking about 2 or 3 yellow tangs for schooling but the tank has no sign of any algae, so that will wait as well.

Perhaps one of the smaller hog fish. I had a really beautiful orange twin spotted hogfish in my last tank.



Had it less than 2 days, swam directly into the anemone.

[GSchiemer]

Originally posted by original-reefland
I'd rather change it every 2 years, but its been doing a great job. I think I'll probably change it out before the end of the year.


Well I'm not serious about it. But a second one does pick up the slack when the first one starts going bad. When you replace them, the second one becomes the first one and the new one goes in the second slot.

I just changed my RO membrane after 6 years. My previous one lasted 7 years. As long as the rejection ratio remains good, and you're monitoring it, there is no need to replace it.

Adding a second DI chamber is an excellent idea. It allows you to completely exhaust the resin in chamber #1, so you save money on replacements, and catches anything that might get through chamber #1. When chamber #1 is exhausted, you move the cartridge from chamber #2 into the #1 position and put a new DI cartridge in chamber #2. This is the recommend protocol and the way it's done in labs.

Greg

[richfavinger]

Great work guys, just tagging along.

Rich

[RichK]

Rich, after reading this whole thread, I have to say you did a great job! Good to see the 180 up and running again.

I'm sorry to see that your elegance died. It did so well for so long. I still have my Gonis, with the parent over 12 years old now! I still have the 125, as I have yet to find a suitable new house.

Just have one question though. I notice you got one of those 55G storage tanks. I followed your link and noticed that there were no graduation marks on the containers. Are they there and you simply painted them to see them easily? Or did you add water in 5G increments and mark the level?

If you want a peaceful, schooling fish, try Barletts anthias. I have 9 in my 125 and they add great movement to the tank. They are easy to keep and are not finicky about food at all. Mine ate flake from day 1.

Looks like I need to come up around that area again to visit you and Jim. Gonna continue tagging along.

[original-reefland]

Originally posted by GSchiemer
I just changed my RO membrane after 6 years. My previous one lasted 7 years. As long as the rejection ratio remains good, and you're monitoring it, there is no need to replace it.

Excellent, good to know. I wasn't sure if something would get by over time that is not detected as TDS. Rule of thumb I always heard was 2 years or less than 98% rejection.

Originally posted by GSchiemer

Adding a second DI chamber is an excellent idea. It allows you to completely exhaust the resin in chamber #1, so you save money on replacements, and catches anything that might get through chamber #1. When chamber #1 is exhausted, you move the cartridge from chamber #2 into the #1 position and put a new DI cartridge in chamber #2. This is the recommend protocol and the way it's done in labs.

How do you know when the resin is fully exhausted? When the input TDS matches the output?

I recently had a DI cartridge that always reported higher TDS in the output than the input. Even when I swapped sensors. It did that since it was brand new. Any idea what causes that? Recently my neighbor got a cartridge that did that as well.

[melev]

I think the cartridge can dry out and be ruined, and then won't work like it should.

[original-reefland]

Originally posted by RichK
Rich, after reading this whole thread, I have to say you did a great job! Good to see the 180 up and running again.

Thanks Rich! Been a while eh? Hope all is well with you and your family (and those massive dobermans).

I'm sorry to see that your elegance died. It did so well for so long. I still have my Gonis, with the parent over 12 years old now! I still have the 125, as I have yet to find a suitable new house.

I still have a four inch section doing well. It's still holding onto its skeleton. All of the daughter colony elegances i had died off as well. Of the five daughter colonies I gave away many months ago only 1 is still alive. The others all released from the skeletons in the same way at about the some time as mine started. Very odd.

Just have one question though. I notice you got one of those 55G storage tanks. I followed your link and noticed that there were no graduation marks on the containers. Are they there and you simply painted them to see them easily? Or did you add water in 5G increments and mark the level?

They are there. I used a red marker to outline the marks.

If you want a peaceful, schooling fish, try Barletts anthias. I have 9 in my 125 and they add great movement to the tank. They are easy to keep and are not finicky about food at all. Mine ate flake from day 1.

Yeap, I had them in my last tank. But they developed a pecking order and after a few months I was down to 2 of them. I didn't have as many as you do however. I think I had 5.

Looks like I need to come up around that area again to visit you and Jim. Gonna continue tagging along.

That would be great. Or perhaps another road trip to PennState to meet up with Sanjay again. Could use some frags from that tank. I still have pictures from our last visit on-line:

http://www.rl180reef.com/TankTour/PennState07212001/

[original-reefland]

Originally posted by melev
I think the cartridge can dry out and be ruined, and then won't work like it should.

I was wondering about that. That is exactly how it arrived. The plastic wrap it was in was cracked.

[GSchiemer]

Originally posted by original-reefland
Excellent, good to know. I wasn't sure if something would get by over time that is not detected as TDS. Rule of thumb I always heard was 2 years or less than 98% rejection.



How do you know when the resin is fully exhausted? When the input TDS matches the output?

I recently had a DI cartridge that always reported higher TDS in the output than the input. Even when I swapped sensors. It did that since it was brand new. Any idea what causes that? Recently my neighbor got a cartridge that did that as well.

Another interesting fact about RO membranes is that when they go bad, they usually go bad quickly. My last two went from over a 98% rejection ratio to an 80% rejection ratio over a one day period. I was just bragging about how well it was still working after all these years and then it went bad.

I use color indicating resin in my DI cartridges, so it easy it see when it's exhausted. If you use a non-indicating resin, then you'll need a resistivity meter, which measures well below the minimum sensitivity of a TDS meter. I have one of these from Spectrapure that has worked well for me for many years. It operates similarly to the TDS meter except that it starts measuring below the range of sensitivity of the typical TDS meter.

Greg

[original-reefland]

Originally posted by GSchiemer
Another interesting fact about RO membranes is that when they go bad, they usually go bad quickly. My last two went from over a 98% rejection ratio to an 80% rejection ratio over a one day period. I was just bragging about how well it was still working after all these years and then it went bad.

Never saw that, I must have always changed them to soon. My neighbor had an issue with a membrane and spectrapure told him to float it in a bucket of water. It never sank. We had two other membranes that were known good ones and they both sank fairly quick. I'm not exactly sure what spectrapure was attempting to test there. But once it would not sink, they requested him to mail it back for an exchange.

I use color indicating resin in my DI cartridges, so it easy it see when it's exhausted.

I was told not to use the color-changing ones as they are not lab-grade resins and using a TDS meter is more accurate then eye-balling the color change.

If you use a non-indicating resin, then you'll need a resistivity meter, which measures well below the minimum sensitivity of a TDS meter. I have one of these from Spectrapure that has worked well for me for many years. It operates similarly to the TDS meter except that it starts measuring below the range of sensitivity of the typical TDS meter.

Interesting. My TDS meter shows 0 ppm on a good DI cartridge and I replace them at 1 or 2 ppm. At what range are you looking for and when do you replace them?

[original-reefland]

Now that I have my calcium reactor on-line, figured I would stock up on ARM media. As far as I know this is still the best stuff going.

I picked up a 50 lb bag of it: