EuroReef Club - Page 25

NewSchool04 · #**601** 11/24/2007, 02:57 PM

This is the new design melev, the pipe doesn't rise. You just twist it and it closes it to cause the skimmer to fill up. The way I have it now, it's more than 3/4 shut.

melev · #**602** 11/24/2007, 06:28 PM

Oh, the riser tube has that angled cut so you are closing it that way. Got it. It really doesn't matter how much it is closed considering that some water will come out and the water in the skimmer is getting skimmed. Instead of 300gph going through it, it might be more like 100gph (WAG on my part). If 100gph flow through it, that would be 2400g skimmed a day.

tbone28 · #**603** 11/24/2007, 06:38 PM

Newschool:

I have a RS250, and had the same concerns (having to close the riser almost completely to get skimmate to flow over). I thought: less water is draining, so that must mean less water is being skimmed.

I called ER, who said the opening/closing is used just to control the static water level within the skimmer body. They said it does not affect the amount of water being skimmed. They said the pump is still pulling in the same amount of water, and that is what's being skimmed.

After washing my skimmer, I, too, have less skimmate flowing over into the cup. It takes a day or two before it starts picking up.

Which pump are you running? The Gen-X it comes with?

sjm817 · #**604** 11/24/2007, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tbone28
Newschool:

I have a RS250, and had the same concerns (having to close the riser almost completely to get skimmate to flow over). I thought: less water is draining, so that must mean less water is being skimmed.

I called ER, who said the opening/closing is used just to control the static water level within the skimmer body. They said it does not affect the amount of water being skimmed. They said the pump is still pulling in the same amount of water, and that is what's being skimmed.

That is correct. The wedgepipe valve does the same thing as a gate valve. It puts back pressure on the outflow and will cause the level in the simmer body to rise. It does not affect H20 GPH throughput. Putting the skimmer in deeper water will also cause the water level to be higher. I would just close the valve more to raise the water level. Dont worry if it is 1/2 or 3/4 or more closed. The only issue with it being closed too much is the water has to exit a small opening and will exit with more velocity and may have some noise issues. If that is the case, deeper skimmer depth wont require it to be closed as much.

On another note, I ran my RS250 with the ER gate valve kit with the output submered quite a bit. There was no negative impact on performance. If you submerge yours, it may put a little extra backpressure on the output which may help and is also nice and quiet.

NewSchool04 · #**605** 11/24/2007, 11:24 PM

I'm running the Gen-X 4100 tbone. It's a bit noisy but seems to be a good pump. What I'm wondering is why I would have to (like you) almost close the pipe to get the water level up to a decent level to skim. I'm not a beginner and I've owned ER's before so if I need to close it down almost all the way, I would assume everyone else is in about the same boat.

Seems like the skimmer was designed so you can adjust it in any setting and unfortunately 3/4th of the adjustment is just useless because you won't be able to skim there. You only have the last 1/4th twist to make a difference.

Is this an underpowered pump problem?

NewSchool04 · #**606** 11/24/2007, 11:33 PM

sjm817, I've noticed that I can have my 90 under the water. It all depends and it's a bit finicky. Sometimes it gurgles terribly and I can move it a micro inch and it's quiet. Looks like melev has a nice easy fix to that problem if it comes up frequently.

If it's not a problem to have the riser tube almost closed, then I guess I'm good to go. I just thought I was basically taking horse power away from the skimmer, cutting down it's efficiency.

sjm817 · #**607** 11/24/2007, 11:42 PM

You aren't taking any power away. The pump will still pump the same amount. If you closed the outflow all the way, it will just overflow the skimmer. For the noise, yes, just a simple cap with a hole in it works well.

How about the silencer? Any progress there? The reason I'm asking is once you do that, you will be adjusting again. When the pump pumps more air, it pumps less water. This can cause the level in the skimmer to change as well.

NewSchool04 · #**608** 11/24/2007, 11:45 PM

no, I didn't do anything with that today. I built a frag rack . . .

NewSchool04 · #**609** 11/24/2007, 11:50 PM

So if I put a silencer on, does that mean with more air I will have to open up the riser more or close it more? If it's close it more, I can't close it more than it being totally closed!

sjm817 · #**610** 11/24/2007, 11:54 PM

It will pump less water which will lower the level in the body...but it will pump more air which makes the bubble level more, so they sort of balance out. Its hard to say exactly since I dont have that skimmer.

If you find you have to close the valve too far, run the skimmer in deeper water.

NewSchool04 · #**611** 11/25/2007, 12:01 AM

I appreciate all the help sjm817 and melev! This really is what the hobby is all about.

tbone28 · #**612** 11/25/2007, 12:34 AM

SMJ: I initially had the drain submerged. Yes, it's quiet, but I had a harder time keeping a steady water level within the skimmer. A slight twist of the wedge would change the level quite a bit. Is this the reason ER doesn't recommend submerging the drain?

I'd prefer to have the drain submerged, as it's quiet. Currently, I have the drain at a 45-degree and a filter bag tied to it. Based on what your saying, it sounds like submerging the drain won't impact the skimmer's performance?

Newschool: I asked what pump you had because I have the Eheim. I thought the Gen-X was too loud, so I bought the Eheim, which is underpowered. The Gen-X is a stronger pump. I thought you were having the same issue as me because you also were running the Eheim. My skimmer is in about 9" of water by the way.

I, too, have owned an ER skimmer in the past - the one with the old-style drain (with the foam). That seemed easier to adjust. Do you agree?

sjm817 · #**613** 11/25/2007, 12:44 AM

tbone, an Eheim SPE5 is ~ the same as the ER SP4 @ 900 LPH. It is not the same performance as the ER SP5 @ 1100 LPH. My RS250 worked really well with the SP5. The Eheim would be a nice pump on the RS180.

As far as the adjustment goes, the traditional standpipes work well, but some people dont like them. Same complaints, hard to make fine adjustments, noise, etc. Gate valves are easy to make fine adjustments with. The wedgepipe is a coarse type of valve. Not sure on ERs recommendations. I go by what the mfgr suggests, but also try out things myself and use what works best. Maybe the wedgepipe outflow doesn't work well set up that way.

NewSchool04 · #**614** 11/25/2007, 01:20 AM

I have my drain submerged tbone. I only use the 90 elbow and it doesn't seem to affect the level in the skimmer but it's 100X's quieter. My skimmer is 6" shorter than yours and I have my skimmer in 8" of water. That's basically right where my elbow is so if I have the elbow turned down, it's about 1/4" under the water level. I would think your elbow would be a lot higher. Try it like this and get rid of the filter bag.

Can you notice the difference between the GenX and the Eheim? If I ordered the Eheim, is it the same one that they also sell for the RS250? How much quieter is it? I don't mind the hum, but I'd rather not deal with it?

I thought the old style was easier to adjust also.

NewSchool04 · #**615** 11/25/2007, 01:29 AM

What do you think about the Eheim sjm817 for the RS180? A quieter pump wouldn't be that bad since my tank is in my room!!!!

And do you know which one they sell for the 180?

tbone28 · #**616** 11/25/2007, 02:21 AM

The Eheim they sell is the one they use for the RC250. Those skimmers don't need as much power. I was sold the Eheim because I thought the OEM Gen-X was too loud. My tank's in the family room. Unfortunately, output's not the same. I'm waiting for ER to come out with a newly designed part (forget which part) for the Gen-X which should quiet it down. They're expecting it end of December. I hope it quiets the pump down enough because I'd like to use the bigger pump if possible.

Right now, I'm getting skimmate with the Eheim, but it could be better. The advantage with the Eheim is that it's almost silent.

I think the Eheim would be a good match for your RS180

NewSchool04 · #**617** 11/25/2007, 02:28 AM

so they are selling the same eheim pump for the 180 and the 250? That makes no sense.

tbone28 · #**618** 11/25/2007, 03:56 AM

the pump was not designed for our skimmers. It was designed for the RC250, but I bought it because it's a quieter pump.

Landon B. · #**619** 11/25/2007, 10:49 AM

I have take a few pictures and got a little more information to see if you guys see anything amis.

Tank 110 w/40 Breeder Sump (Actual Water Volume is around 120 Gallons as far as I've been able to tell.

I have a mixed bag of fish: Yellow Tang, Blue Tang, 2 Percula Clowns, Dispar Anthias, 2 Chromis and a Firefish. I feed Cyclops and home brew of food daily.

Skimmer is an RC-135. Pump is a Sedra KSP-5000. I am feeding it with a QuietOne 1200, its connected with vinyl tubing with about 2' of tube. I used the head loss calculator and came up with a flow rate of 242 GPH. I have the pump dialed back as far as it will let me go, not sure of exactly what the flow is when its dialed back. I can see the water breaking against the body across from the input, I've wondered if I have to much water moving in.

Other thing I've wondered about is where to aim the elbow for the output of the recirc pump. Right now I pointing at the side of the body on a slight angle. I've noticed that this sends bubbles low into the body and they get sucked back up by the pump. Is this wrong?

Shot of the plumbing with Recirc pump off.

Shot of the water height with Recirc pump off.

Shot of bottom plumbing with pump on. Should it be able to take in bubbles or should water be clear?

Shot of gate valve.

Shot of skimmer in operation. Cleaned cup yesterday afternoon.

Thanks All!

jaws_too · #**620** 11/30/2007, 12:09 AM

i just made the upgrade from a rs100 to an rc250. any one know how long they take to break in?

jimdogg187 · #**621** 11/30/2007, 12:20 AM

Probably a week or two depending how much waste in the water.

Nice skimmer BTW

Detritivore · #**622** 11/30/2007, 12:22 AM

hi all,

im thinking about getting an RS135 for my 120 gal. +~20 gal sump. the tank is lightly stocked with fish and it will be predominantly SPS. do you think the RS135 will be enough? i'm really not interested in the RS180, due to all the reported problems with the genx pump.

thanks!

jaws_too · #**623** 11/30/2007, 12:31 AM

thanks jim,

it has been running for 6 days and produces foam. but after i shut it off or empty the cup it takes a few hrs to get foam again.
is this normal for the break in period?

NewSchool04 · #**624** 11/30/2007, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaws_too
thanks jim,

it has been running for 6 days and produces foam. but after i shut it off or empty the cup it takes a few hrs to get foam again.
is this normal for the break in period?

That is normal, no worries.

Snowboarda42 · #**625** 12/02/2007, 01:59 AM

Bump

I just got a RS-80P and mesh modded it the minute I took it out of the box. The bubbles are about the width of a sewing needle. I definitely love this skimmer so far, its really quiet and moves a LOT of air.

I'll post pics when I start getting skimmate.

I have a couple questions:

1. Whats your definition of "foam head"?

2. Where do I want the foam head at?

3. Do I need to adjust the air line at all? Its wide open right now. Does closing it make the skimmer skim more wet?