Lighting Website Updates - Page 25

Robert Patterso · #**601** 09/25/2006, 08:32 AM

Does anybody on this thread know where a guy can either the Aquaconnect or Pheonix 400w 14 SE bulb. Can't find a listing anywhere online. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks, Robert

Robert Patterso · #**602** 09/25/2006, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Robert Patterso
Does anybody on this thread know where a guy can either the Aquaconnect or Pheonix 400w 14 SE bulb. Can't find a listing anywhere online. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks, Robert

Was just informed that Pheonix does'nt make a SE bulb. Didn't know that. DUH! And if you can find a Aquaconnect they're $150. For that much money it better do my water changes for me to

. Oh well looks like either evc or reeflux.

Robert Patterso · #**603** 09/25/2006, 09:43 AM

Sanjay or anybody else for that matter. In your opinion do you feel that a single 400w 14k over a 70g sps dominated tank, with dem. of 36Lx24dpx19w would be plenty of light with a Lumenarc reflector. Or would 2 x 250w be better. Isn't there a point when there's just to much. I realize we can't duplicate the sun, but were running longer light cycles also.

Sanjay · #**604** 09/25/2006, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Robert Patterso
Sanjay or anybody else for that matter. In your opinion do you feel that a single 400w 14k over a 70g sps dominated tank, with dem. of 36Lx24dpx19w would be plenty of light with a Lumenarc reflector. Or would 2 x 250w be better. Isn't there a point when there's just to much. I realize we can't duplicate the sun, but were running longer light cycles also.

Yes, it would be enough but would depend to some extent on your aquascaping too. If you have a lot of high light corals towards the extremes of your 36" you may find that they will get less light. However if you have your rock so that there is clearance between the rock and the sides of hte tank you will be fine.

sanjay.

Sanjay · #**605** 09/25/2006, 10:02 AM

Thanks everyone for all you support over the years.... this MACNA was special

sanjay.

Robert Patterso · #**606** 09/25/2006, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Sanjay
Thanks everyone for all you support over the years.... this MACNA was special

sanjay.

Congrats on your award

Robert Patterso · #**607** 09/25/2006, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Sanjay
Yes, it would be enough but would depend to some extent on your aquascaping too. If you have a lot of high light corals towards the extremes of your 36" you may find that they will get less light. However if you have your rock so that there is clearance between the rock and the sides of hte tank you will be fine.

sanjay.

Thanks Sanjay, yes there is approx 3-4" between glass and LR. I'm also wanting to keep lowering light corals such lords and miromussa ect in lower outer edges of reef. So you think this will work ok then.

hahnmeister · #**608** 09/25/2006, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Robert Patterso
Was just informed that Pheonix does'nt make a SE bulb. Didn't know that. DUH! And if you can find a Aquaconnect they're $150. For that much money it better do my water changes for me to. Oh well looks like either evc or reeflux.

There is very little comparison of the Aquaconnect to the EVCs and Reeflux bulbs. The reason the AC 14,000K is $150 is because its really a HQI rated 400w (ok, fine, and somewhat because it is imported in small numbers), and is designed for use on a higher-current HQI ballast. Those other ones are not (they are standard probe start), and so they either dont have as much output on the e-ballasts they are designed to run on, or they burn out faster if run on a HQI ballast.

The Grim Reefer · #**609** 09/25/2006, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Sanjay
Thanks everyone for all you support over the years.... this MACNA was special

sanjay.

Gradulations!!

Very cool Sanjay, and long overdue.

Thank You.

hahnmeister · #**610** 09/25/2006, 01:40 PM

Sanjay, no pressure and all, but a while back you mentioned doing long term tests of halides on various ballasts (comparing HQI to e-ballasts with DE and SE bulbs in particular). I know ReeferAl sent you some bulbs, and I still have some I can send (pheonix and aqualine 10,000Ks at 1 year on both HQI and Icecap ballasts), but is that testing going to go on any time soon? Seems to be a hot topic these days, and it would be a simple test... the hard part is collecting the right bulbs...

Robert Patterso · #**611** 09/25/2006, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hahnmeister
There is very little comparison of the Aquaconnect to the EVCs and Reeflux bulbs. The reason the AC 14,000K is $150 is because its really a HQI rated 400w (ok, fine, and somewhat because it is imported in small numbers), and is designed for use on a higher-current HQI ballast. Those other ones are not (they are standard probe start), and so they either dont have as much output on the e-ballasts they are designed to run on, or they burn out faster if run on a HQI ballast.

So where does one find a AC 400w 14k. Also how the Ushio 400w 14000k bulb. Aren't they supposed to be hqi rated or no. Marine Depot list them as hqi and should be run on hqi ballast. I'm looking for the most bang for my buck without having to replace them every 5-6 mos. I had thought about a 39w t5ho icecap setup. I'm just not sure if they'll support high light acros. And I rather be able to put them at any level I want without much worry of insuffient light. I know there are some successful t5 tanks out there.

crazzy · #**612** 09/25/2006, 02:34 PM

Sanjay / Hahnmeitster Congratulations Sanjay for your award at MACNA : reference hahnmeister post immediately above. I wouild be willing to contribute $$ (say couple of thousand) to help get some answers to this. I have delima I am facing re: T 5's. 400 w or 1000 watt MH, DE or not? Dual reflectors (400 MH or side by side Luminarc III ) and diverse bulbe re; requirements. see my earlier post here and on T 5's Q & A from Grimreefer. Seems to be a good inteligence project for facts.
I am currently having quoted to build a new tank made from Jumbo sheet (dual laminated so it is 1.5" thick) Starfire. The tank will be 204" X 65" X 43" high with a 5" DSB having SPS etc. Can I literally cover this large tank with IC powered T 5's with few or no MH ?? I originally posted this to Grim Reefer on T 5's, he suggested here. Suggestions for Halide 1000's ? mix? reflector?
. I have seen a few people mention the Helios 20K which can be found at www.commodityaxis.com.

From Grimreefer: You might want to check in the large tank forum on 1000 watt lamps. If it were possible to make 400 watt lamps work you would have a lot more options on lamps. I saw some pictures of high end German equipment where you could mount 2 halide lamps per reflector. That could be just the right thing for your situation. Use a 6500K lamp for power and a 20K lamp in front for color. The 6500/20K halide combination looks really nice.

crazzy · #**613** 09/25/2006, 02:34 PM

Sanjay / Hahnmeitster Congratulations Sanjay for your award at MACNA : reference hahnmeister post immediately above. I wouild be willing to contribute $$ (say couple of thousand) to help get some answers to this. I have delima I am facing re: T 5's. 400 w or 1000 watt MH, DE or not? Dual reflectors (400 MH or side by side Luminarc III ) and diverse bulbe re; requirements. see my earlier post here and on T 5's Q & A from Grimreefer. Seems to be a good inteligence project for facts.
I am currently having quoted to build a new tank made from Jumbo sheet (dual laminated so it is 1.5" thick) Starfire. The tank will be 204" X 65" X 43" high with a 5" DSB having SPS etc. Can I literally cover this large tank with IC powered T 5's with few or no MH ?? I originally posted this to Grim Reefer on T 5's, he suggested here. Suggestions for Halide 1000's ? mix? reflector?
. I have seen a few people mention the Helios 20K which can be found at www.commodityaxis.com.

From Grimreefer: You might want to check in the large tank forum on 1000 watt lamps. If it were possible to make 400 watt lamps work you would have a lot more options on lamps. I saw some pictures of high end German equipment where you could mount 2 halide lamps per reflector. That could be just the right thing for your situation. Use a 6500K lamp for power and a 20K lamp in front for color. The 6500/20K halide combination looks really nice.

hahnmeister · #**614** 09/25/2006, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Robert Patterso
So where does one find a AC 400w 14k. Also how the Ushio 400w 14000k bulb. Aren't they supposed to be hqi rated or no. Marine Depot list them as hqi and should be run on hqi ballast. I'm looking for the most bang for my buck without having to replace them every 5-6 mos. I had thought about a 39w t5ho icecap setup. I'm just not sure if they'll support high light acros. And I rather be able to put them at any level I want without much worry of insuffient light. I know there are some successful t5 tanks out there.

The best $$ you will find right now is here...
http://www.aquaristics.com/pro_lighthit.php

According to PaulErik, "Ushio 400-watt lamps except CWA models are high current lamps. AB 10,000K, Auqaconnect 14,000K, BLV 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K+ and Blue Colorlite lamps are all high current lamps. Most of the Ushio Aqualite SE lamps are the same as the BLV Nepturion lamps except they are equipped with E39 bases. The CWA line/models of Ushio aquarium lamps are specially designed for North America. These lamps are probe start and are designed for use with a standard magnetic CWA (Constant Wattage Autotransformer) ballast."

The only exception has been to buy in bulk direct from Germany. This is a mixed bag though, as you might have a hard time convincing customs that they are for personal use... or not. But I have heard that this can save some boku $$$ with these bulbs. Im going to go to Germany next summer, so Im going to try to buy a bunch to gring back.

hahnmeister · #**615** 09/25/2006, 04:23 PM

As for 1000s vs 400s. 1000s only give you about 2x the output of a good 400watter (according to a post made by a mfg about some new bulbs they were coming out with a year or so ago). So 400s are the better buy. Combine this with the wider range of bulbs available, and its a no brainer. Besides, 400s should be fine for a tank your depth. T5s should be fine as well. Linear bulbs penetrate deeper than point source bulbs (halides).

Also, I have a 1000wattHQI (only available in 220v), and I can tell you from when I fired it up... its very very hot. I was standing 3' away from it and it felt like I was standing under the sun. Not so much with 400s. Unless you have a tank that is 5' or taller, 400s should be fine.

Robert Patterso · #**616** 09/25/2006, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hahnmeister
The best $$ you will find right now is here...
http://www.aquaristics.com/pro_lighthit.php

According to PaulErik, "Ushio 400-watt lamps except CWA models are high current lamps. AB 10,000K, Auqaconnect 14,000K, BLV 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K+ and Blue Colorlite lamps are all high current lamps. Most of the Ushio Aqualite SE lamps are the same as the BLV Nepturion lamps except they are equipped with E39 bases. The CWA line/models of Ushio aquarium lamps are specially designed for North America. These lamps are probe start and are designed for use with a standard magnetic CWA (Constant Wattage Autotransformer) ballast."

The only exception has been to buy in bulk direct from Germany. This is a mixed bag though, as you might have a hard time convincing customs that they are for personal use... or not. But I have heard that this can save some boku $$$ with these bulbs. Im going to go to Germany next summer, so Im going to try to buy a bunch to gring back.

Thanks Hahn, It may worth the money to be able to get a true hqi bulb. Longer life and color.

The Grim Reefer · #**617** 09/25/2006, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hahnmeister
As for 1000s vs 400s. 1000s only give you about 2x the output of a good 400watter (according to a post made by a mfg about some new bulbs they were coming out with a year or so ago). So 400s are the better buy. Combine this with the wider range of bulbs available, and its a no brainer. Besides, 400s should be fine for a tank your depth. T5s should be fine as well. Linear bulbs penetrate deeper than point source bulbs (halides).

Ain't no way T5's are penetrating as far as a 400 watt halide in a Lumenarc. A Iwasaki 175 watt 15K in a Lumen Max ll kicked the snot out of T5's putting about double the PAR to the bottom of a 125. Even overdriven T5's aint gonna cut it for SPS in a 43" tall tank.

reeflover2 · #**618** 09/25/2006, 10:23 PM

Grim what would you say the deepest T5's could go for a SPS dominated tank?

hahnmeister · #**619** 09/26/2006, 01:12 AM

Hey, Energy is using T5s on his 1500g tank and loves 'em. Im not saying T5s will match the intensity of a halide... they simply dont come in 400watt versions...lol. But they do penetrate better with what light they make. So yeah, if you wanted to have enough T5s to match a 400watter for intensity, you would need something like a 8x54watt setup... which does take up about 2x the area as a single lumenarc, true. But if you have the area to spare, it will work. I was thinking more of a supplimental role for the T5s anyways.

The Grim Reefer · #**620** 09/26/2006, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by reeflover2
Grim what would you say the deepest T5's could go for a SPS dominated tank?

I'd get nervous at much over 28 or maybe 30". Even overdriven the T5's aren't going to have much left by the time the light gets past the midway point of the tank. At 23.5" 4 IC driven T5's did 183 to the sand. 6 lamps might up the PAR a little but anything more than that is just increasing the coverage area rather than increasing peak intensity. Say 6 lamps would have produced 200 at the sand. If you move the target 6" further down in the water you have to be getting close to the 150 range which is the number I have seen mentioned as what you need to the sand for an SPS tank.

Sanjay · #**621** 09/26/2006, 07:23 AM

I don't know much about T5s at this point... but soon will be able to answer some of these questions.

Just remember.. photons are photons and with enough of them you can use basically use any source of light. Light penetration is basically a function of the number of photons and how they are spread out.

With deep tanks, you are really better off with MH. I usually tell people to shoot for around 100 PPFD at the bottom of the tank and you can basically keep SPS in the top 2/3rd of the tank with ease. Plus you need areas of low light for some of the corals you might want to keep.

sanjay.

The Grim Reefer · #**622** 09/26/2006, 10:30 AM

So some T5 testing is in your future Sanjay? Cool. I guess I need to find someone with a 36" tall tank to see if these things can punch that deep.

Sanjay · #**623** 09/26/2006, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
So some T5 testing is in your future Sanjay? Cool. I guess I need to find someone with a 36" tall tank to see if these things can punch that deep.

I am basically interested in answering comparison type questions, rather than individual t5 lamp type stuff.

I want to be able to answer with some definate data on spread vs intensity issues of t5s vs mh. I have redesigned the reflector setup to allow me to test 4ft fixtures at any depth upto 4ft. Unfortunately this increases the size of the test grid and hence the time to take data. So it will be quite limited, a few (2-3) "best" t5 fixtures and lamps, against a few (2-3) MH setups.

sanjay.

The Grim Reefer · #**624** 09/26/2006, 03:44 PM

That will be interesting to see. Its hard to tell in a tank with rocks and sand if shawdows or reflection is skewing the readings. I know one guy on RC who got a 310 reading at the bottom of a 75 (20" tall) using a 15K 175 watt Iwasaki in a Lumen Max reflctor running on an Ice Cap ballast. His 6 lamp Tek did 125. Both fixtures were mounted at usable heights, 8" for the halide and 4" for the Tek. That halide is going to be tough to beat for performance and efficiency.

DrBDC · #**625** 09/26/2006, 04:30 PM

I love mine. It's like upgrading to a 250 w/o buying new ballasts. I had the XM10,000k's which are no slouch but it's night and day difference as well as a nicer color.