The T5 Q&a Thread

[Altpers0na]

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
Sounds like your current fixtures are NO instead of HO so only use those for blue/actinic.

For the 10K lamps use 1 UVL Aquasun, 1 ATI Aquablue (nearly white light) and a Blue Plus, Trust me, you will be glad you used the blue lamp. The aquasun has a slightly red hue to it so the blue washes that out. The Blue Plus also has a lot of PAR so its a good thing.

Ballast is a little tricky. I would use an Ice Cap 660 if it were me. It can run 3 lamps and they wil be overdriven. You do need to use a couple fans to cool the lamps but you really should if you dont overdrive too. Other option would be a workhorse 7 ballast, not may fav but it will work.

hey grim

i have secured a 660 to go with my 28w novas for my 75 aga... that puts me at 6 to 7 bulbs... total, 3 nova 28ws.. and 3 or 4 on the ice cap..

i would eventually like to keep a few sps, (keeping corals always lead to sps dosnt it?)

so should i do 3 + 3 or 3 + 4 or just ditch the 28s and use the icecap alone... at least till i convince my self to get a second 660..

and of course bulb selection..

i dont like the tanks that look overly blue all the time... such as the 20k look, i prefer 10k to 14k colors...

would your recommended bulb list stay the same?

and thanks for the assistance...

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by Boca Kris
I did wonder about having TOO much light. I have a standard 55G, and 5 bulbs seems like alot, but I have seen the same fixture used on tanks my size and even smaller. (I think they have this unit on a 45G at Aquactinincs)

I did order the UVL Super Actinic, and I did see that Sfiogoli on clearance. Maybe its worth ordering now while its on clearance as a back-up.

So, my bulbs will be:
Front:
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actininc
UVL Aquasun
UVL Actinic
ATI Aquablue

Do you think thats gonna be overkill on my tank? I plan on adding some softies, and eventually even try my hand at some LPS, maybe even a coupla SPS.

And thanks again for the help!

Should be fine.

[Putawaywet]

Greetings everyone,

Grim, (as well as anyone else) I'm wondering if you might be able to offer up some insight on my new purchase.

I just picked up the Sfiligoi 12x80w Stealth pendant and I'm trying to sort out what kind of internals I might be dealing with



Here is what's inside the ballast box:



The internals are marked as follows:

ERC (or) ERO
Made in Italy
ATF HID 90
Code 689882
Input 110v
Output 220v
Lamp max 150w compensated
ta 50 *C/B 60hz
EN 61558-2-13

Reef / Aholic suspects they are Autotransformers for HID / MH / Mercury vapor lamps. whch has me comfused as to why I'm seeing them on a HO T5 setup. HID ballasts for MH can fire T5 tubes?

I know you've mentioned the Sfiligoi entry into the T5 game a while back but not sure what you might know about how they setup their units.

Question #1: Can you tell me more about what is in the box and how does it correlate to HO T5?

Question #2: Two lamps keep cutting out after a few hours. If I turn everything off and let it cool down for a bit and they fire back up again no prob. My guess is it's a ballast problem? If so, should I be looking at 1 of the 6 in the box or start looking for something else in the fixture itself.

Here is the link to the thread where these questions have come up:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...9#post11473629

Many thanks in advance -Brett

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by mwlude
I am up grading to a 120g 48X24X24
I currently have 2 110 vho atinics and 2 T5Ho with IC SLR
Current bulb set up on my 55g
VHO Atinic T12
ATI Aqua blue T5HO
UVL Aqua sun T5HO
VHO Atinic T12


I currently have mostly softies, mushrooms, and zoos. It seems that I currently have too much light as my mushrooms and zoos try to grow move to the shade even towards the bottom. So I was thinking for my 120 I would only have 4 t5 w/ ic slr and 2 t12 atinics

The final set up would be 4 t5 with the ic slr and 2 Vho T12

What 2 T5 bulbs whould you suggest to add to my current set up? Also do you think it would be benifical to switch the 2XT12 atinics to 2 X t5 eventually?

Stay with the VHO actinics and add another Aquablue and a Blue Plus

[flaco626nj]

Originally posted by Putawaywet
Greetings everyone,

Grim, (as well as anyone else) I'm wondering if you might be able to offer up some insight on my new purchase.

I just picked up the Sfiligoi 12x80w Stealth pendant and I'm trying to sort out what kind of internals I might be dealing with



Here is what's inside the ballast box:



The internals are marked as follows:

ERC (or) ERO
Made in Italy
ATF HID 90
Code 689882
Input 110v
Output 220v
Lamp max 150w compensated
ta 50 *C/B 60hz
EN 61558-2-13

Reef / Aholic suspects they are Autotransformers for HID / MH / Mercury vapor lamps. whch has me comfused as to why I'm seeing them on a HO T5 setup. HID ballasts for MH can fire T5 tubes?

I know you've mentioned the Sfiligoi entry into the T5 game a while back but not sure what you might know about how they setup their units.

Question #1: Can you tell me more about what is in the box and how does it correlate to HO T5?

Question #2: Two lamps keep cutting out after a few hours. If I turn everything off and let it cool down for a bit and they fire back up again no prob. My guess is it's a ballast problem? If so, should I be looking at 1 of the 6 in the box or start looking for something else in the fixture itself.

Here is the link to the thread where these questions have come up:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...9#post11473629

Many thanks in advance -Brett

not for nothing but if my 3000 dollar light fixture was over heating i wold call the company and ask for a replacement ......jmho .hope you can figure it out good luck
victor

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by fishlibrary
What is the last choice be ?

1. KZ CL
2. KZ CL
3. Slyvania Coralstar
4. ?????? (please select from KZ, UVL, D-D, Sylvania only)

KZ Coral Light is an Aquablue. I would add a UVL Super Actinic

[chull13]

what do you think Grim?
Thanks,

Chris

Originally posted by chull13
Grim Reefer,

I know you have probably answered this a million times but I would like your opion on a 6 36" T5 configuration overdriven with 660s that will give me the most par but great color. Mixed softy/LPS/SPS tank. (24" deep) What bulbs to use???

Thanks

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by chull13
Grim Reefer,

I know you have probably answered this a million times but I would like your opion on a 6 36" T5 configuration overdriven with 660s that will give me the most par but great color. Mixed softy/LPS/SPS tank. (24" deep) What bulbs to use???

Thanks

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
Blue Plus

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by jennmac415
Grim... I bought some extra bulbs from a fellow RC reefer... so these are the bulbs I now have in my possesion... what combination should I now use to get a 14-15,000K look with good growth, popping of all colors,(blues, greens, reds, blues and pinks) good flouresceing blah blah...you know what I mean...

6 ATi Blue Plus
2 UVL super actinic
4 GE 6000K
2 Ge 3000K
2 ATi Aquablue special
2 D&D Actinic plus
2 Geisemann Aquablue plus

Here is my current configuation which I don't like at all...

remember ... 7 rows side by side to make 72"

1. ATi Blue plus
2. UVL super actinic
3. GE 6000K (Had the GE 3000 here and liked it better than the way it is now, but still not blue enough overall...probably want to add it back in the new combination..)
4. Ati blue Plus
5. GE 6000K
6. ATI blue plus
7. Ati Aquablue special

thanks AGAIN... and again and again and again and again.........

Try this

1. ATi Blue plus
2. UVL super actinic
3. GE 3000K
4. Actinic Plus
5. Ati Aquablue special
6. ATI blue plus
7. D&D Aquablue Plus

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by Altpers0na
hey grim

i have secured a 660 to go with my 28w novas for my 75 aga... that puts me at 6 to 7 bulbs... total, 3 nova 28ws.. and 3 or 4 on the ice cap..

i would eventually like to keep a few sps, (keeping corals always lead to sps dosnt it?)

so should i do 3 + 3 or 3 + 4 or just ditch the 28s and use the icecap alone... at least till i convince my self to get a second 660..

and of course bulb selection..

i dont like the tanks that look overly blue all the time... such as the 20k look, i prefer 10k to 14k colors...

would your recommended bulb list stay the same?

and thanks for the assistance...

I'd hang on to two of the 28 watt actinics for dusk/dawn.

For the 4 lamps on the 660 try

Front
Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
UVL Super Actinic
Aquablue

[Altpers0na]

sounds like a plan,

ty

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by Putawaywet
Greetings everyone,

Grim, (as well as anyone else) I'm wondering if you might be able to offer up some insight on my new purchase.

I just picked up the Sfiligoi 12x80w Stealth pendant and I'm trying to sort out what kind of internals I might be dealing with



Here is what's inside the ballast box:



The internals are marked as follows:

ERC (or) ERO
Made in Italy
ATF HID 90
Code 689882
Input 110v
Output 220v
Lamp max 150w compensated
ta 50 *C/B 60hz
EN 61558-2-13

Reef / Aholic suspects they are Autotransformers for HID / MH / Mercury vapor lamps. whch has me comfused as to why I'm seeing them on a HO T5 setup. HID ballasts for MH can fire T5 tubes?

I know you've mentioned the Sfiligoi entry into the T5 game a while back but not sure what you might know about how they setup their units.

Question #1: Can you tell me more about what is in the box and how does it correlate to HO T5?

Question #2: Two lamps keep cutting out after a few hours. If I turn everything off and let it cool down for a bit and they fire back up again no prob. My guess is it's a ballast problem? If so, should I be looking at 1 of the 6 in the box or start looking for something else in the fixture itself.

Here is the link to the thread where these questions have come up:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...9#post11473629

Many thanks in advance -Brett

Like I said in the other thread I would contact the manufacturer about the cutting off issue. As far as the ballasts I pointed this post out to someone who is a true guru when it comes to the internal workings of lamps and ballasts so hopefully he will reply.

[Putawaywet]

Thanks Grim. Hopefully he can offer some guesses as to why they picked these particular ballasts.

[The Grim Reefer]

My guess would be they got a killer deal

[djs819]

I'm waiting for a new TX5 to come in and was trying to come up with the right combination of bulbs to order. I have an old fat back hex, 48" wide in back, 36" in front, 27" deep. I like the color of MH, but couldn't find a fit for my canopy and the wife requires it.

Going through this tread I saw two different recommendations for the TX5. Are either of these correct for my tank?

Front
ATI Aquablue or for more blue look ATI blue Plus.
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

and

Front:
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actininc
UVL Aquasun
UVL Actinic
ATI Aquablue


Thanks!
David

[PaulErik]

The transformer box for that fixture contains the step up transformers (120V to 220/230/240V). It is easier and cheaper to use European T5 HO ballasts for 80W lamps because they are available in a two lamp version.
The light cutting out/off may be because of one of the transformers is over heating or from a bad T5 ballast which are housed inside the fixture. I’m not sure if the transformers are equipped with a cut off temp switch (thermal switch). If they do not it is probably one of the T5 ballasts. I don’t have my product specifications with me right now. It’s best to contact the manufacturer and trouble shoot the problem with them. I’ll be traveling the next few days and I can’t get information on the parts used right now.

[PaulErik]

One more thing. Those step up transformers were originally designed for HID ballasts (150 watts maximum) but can be used for other applications. In this case they are providing the proper voltage to the T5 HO ballasts.

[The Grim Reefer]

Thanks Paul, I read right past the 110 in 220 out. The 220v ballasts I had here don't look like they had the same circuitry as the 110 version. Only a single wire to each end of the lamps. I could see where they would be cheaper.

[FranktheTankTx]

Grim,

I'm suddenly thinking of getting a 36g corner tank (almost Nano) to do some SPS, zoo's & rics. A 36g corner dimensions are 34"x24x21". But it's only 34" right in the front of the tank. Then the dimensions start to slim down towards the back.

I've never owned a corner tank... but my worry is the funny dimensions. I'm stuck, what kind of light to get??? MH or T5?
If I were to go T5 light, what would you suggest a 24" or 36" How many bulbs?

I would think 24". And I would think 6 bulbs. How is this going to look? Shadows everywhere, or will it look fine?

All the thoughts you can share are appreciated!
Thank you!

[Putawaywet]

Paul, Grim,

Thanks a bunch. At least now I know I have a better understanding of what I'm looking at and dealing with.

I'll give Aquarium Obsessed a call next week to discuss the lights cutting out.

Brett

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by FranktheTankTx
Grim,

I'm suddenly thinking of getting a 36g corner tank (almost Nano) to do some SPS, zoo's & rics. A 36g corner dimensions are 34"x24x21". But it's only 34" right in the front of the tank. Then the dimensions start to slim down towards the back.

I've never owned a corner tank... but my worry is the funny dimensions. I'm stuck, what kind of light to get??? MH or T5?
If I were to go T5 light, what would you suggest a 24" or 36" How many bulbs?

I would think 24". And I would think 6 bulbs. How is this going to look? Shadows everywhere, or will it look fine?

All the thoughts you can share are appreciated!
Thank you!

A halide would probably be best for something like that.

No real good way of covering it right with T5's.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by Putawaywet
Paul, Grim,

Thanks a bunch. At least now I know I have a better understanding of what I'm looking at and dealing with.

I'll give Aquarium Obsessed a call next week to discuss the lights cutting out.

Brett

One bit of troubleshooting you can do would be to take the two lamps that are going out and move them to another ballast and see if the problem follows the lamps. I doubt it but it wouldn't hurt to try just to be sure. Also a slight possibilty that one of the lamps isn't in the endcap firm enough and loses contact once the fixture heats up enough for the metal to expand but that is also unlikely.

[Putawaywet]

Copy!

[jd_md_73]

I apologize if this has been asked before (I DID use the search function), but what has been people's experiences using the IceCap SLR vs. the TEK 2 retrofits? I'm looking to light a 30 long with 4x39w T5's.

Thanks!

[The Grim Reefer]

Tek 2 reflectors are a tad over 3" wide, can you get 4 over that tank?