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#26
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Don |
#27
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Hi Don, I didn't take an IR image, but I did take some IR laser readings of the outside of the aluminum HPS sealed fixture. The warmest point was the top of the back of the case where I'm guessing the transformer for the ballast sits. It measured about 110F. Most of the rest of the case was around 105F. Pretty cool running little light considdering it is making the light of roughly 150watts of compact florecent. Small tight little footprint for cramped undertank areas, and I think it cost less than $70 at home depot or lowes if I remember correctly.
I think you would be pleased with it as a choice for your application. I'm looking forward to seeing this outstanding tank design come to life. It will be interesting to need to clean both sides of the glass Best Wishes, -Luke |
#28
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Why haven't I seen anyone else do this kind of fantastic woodwork on RC? Oh thats right. Because this guy is God.
__________________
65 gallon 36x18x24tall-20 long Refugium, Octopus NW-150 (modified to recirc.) 2x250 Aqua Medic Phoenix 14k bulbs !!!!!!!!!!!!!FOR SALE!!!!!!!!!!!! |
#29
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Very nice work Don. I look forward to following your project.
E. |
#30
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Here is the wiring diagram for the system. This mess will go into a small 10x10 x3 acrylic box and stuffed under the tank.
In the beginning I was going to reuse my automation controller and go hog wild with automation but honestly I want to keep things simple. There will be no power strips just this control box. Pretty straight forward. Dedicate 12vdc power supply and battery charger. Marine deep cycle battery (outside on the porch) Lighting timer with dpdt relay for reverse photo period Dual opticals for the ato Optical high level to control back-up low volt pump Power failure to control low volt pump Ranco for the heat Cooling fans run oposite the ranco Two dedicated breakers Nothing fancy but will be clean and compact no mess of wires. |
#31
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Nice work Don. Where are you getting your optical sensors? I've looked around, but had no luck.
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"I SUPPORT K.R.A.C." [Originally posted by nrike "that has to be one of the ugliest tanks i seen in my life. but nice effort"] |
#32
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#33
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How much and do you ship??
__________________
"I SUPPORT K.R.A.C." [Originally posted by nrike "that has to be one of the ugliest tanks i seen in my life. but nice effort"] |
#34
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Here is the beginning of the electrical system. The wiring that is there is all there is to the lighting. The cable is 12g 3 conductor. One cable is the power going in. The second cable is the halide stub and the black outlet is the fuge light power. The little black box is the timer that will run the halides for a preset time period and the reverse the photoperiod for the fuge.
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#35
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Don.... your killing me. I am going to have to send you some fancy cord grips!
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#36
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Don |
#37
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Thats what I like to hear. The woodworking is nice and all... but some of us like to look under the stand too!
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#38
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Wow real nice. I have been doing some research on the vinear stuff. My cousin redid her cabinets and it came out great. Everything is looking great so far..
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Eric (Red House for my 425 system) |
#39
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WOW the electrical is a little over my head but I will still follow this looks like a great build can't wait to see it finished. Keep it up. Will the tank be made by you also? What dims, glass or acrylic?
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Fish swim in water. ><> ><> |
#40
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Quote:
Don |
#41
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Beautiful work Don!
I'm wondering how the wood finish and color will hold up to the UV of the halides? Also, how will your overflow tank be plumbed? I drew up a setup that hid all the plumbing in the rockork, so as not to rely on a checkvalve like those zero edge tanks. In the end, I decided I didnt want all the cleaning and extra evap. They sure are pretty though! Cant wait to see more, I always like your work. Chris
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"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
#42
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Also,
I know a guy who wiped out about 50 large gorgeous Koi with a huge jar of pennies. Thought it would look cool....
__________________
"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
#43
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Quote:
I'm going with one sequence dart and am drilling the rock for the returns to get them up as high as possible. Then Ill add two check valves. I also am adding a back up low voltage pump. So if all else fails the low voltage pump will prevent any flooding. Also it will come on in case of a power outage. The back-up pump will be activated by opticals and have two deep cycle batteries and will be charged by the 12vdc supply, just like a alarm system. And of course if all that fails I'm puting a stand pipe in the sump that goes to the sewer. Don |
#44
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Good Man!
__________________
"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
#45
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If anyone has any lighting suggestions for the fuge I'd like to here them.
Have you considered a single T5HO strip?
__________________
Life is not a dress rehearsal! ;-) "Well behaved women never get any respect" -- Benazir Bhutto |
#46
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thats some really nice wood work...cant wait to see it finished
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#47
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wow this tank is gonna be sweet especially with your fine woodworking skills. tagging along
Mark
__________________
Ummm Ummm Good |
#48
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Are you talking about something I would find at HD or do I have to have something else? Don |
#49
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I would say the 70w HPS from HD for the fuge. OR you can just use a simpe shoplight from lowes with a 6500K floodlight bulb screwed into it.
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Jeff |
#50
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This is what I found on the web for t-5 is this the type of thing I should be going with for t-5's?
http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp...OD&ProdID=1349 |
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