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alex - The only thing I'd add to what John has said is that it seems like you need to slow down a little.
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John - Thanks for the promotion . And yes, knowing what I know now makes the planning of my 450 gallon office tank a lot more interesting, and a lot more fun. OK everybody, pictures to follow!
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The Dude abides |
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I didn't want to make it sound like I was in a rush to get it all stocked and everything. I definetly don't want to have problems and will take it as slow as I need to. I just want to get the live rock in there so I can let the tank cycle for a LONG time. I just know that when I have more money I will be itching to stock it, so I want it to be established, ready, and safe for the fish in a few months!
Those hydor flo's make it look like the water will spin in a circular motion and none will shoot forward. Is there a hole on the end so that water goes forward and in a circle around the powerhead? |
#453
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Sorry Alex, don't know anything about that product.
Here are some pics of the coral frags I got about 6 weeks ago. If you recall, some of them developed STN near the base, but this seems to have recovered nicely. All of the frags have based out pretty nicely, and these photos were taken 4 nights ago. This first frag is acropora nana. It's actually a little more green than shown here, but the camera's not great for macros. You can see the plug it came mounted on. The purple stuff below it is Deltec 2-part putty that I used to attach it to the rock. It's kind of bulky and I'm not all that pleased with it. I think I could have combined a smaller amount of putty with some super glue gel, but the good news is that coralline is already growing on the putty and it should be harder to see as the coral grows and coralline accumulates. I'll also mention that none of my frags have budged since they were mounted, so I think the putty is good stuff. You can also see the nice base that this coral laid down over the last 6 weeks. The bad things that you can see are the many types of algae that are growing on the rocks. This one is acropora tenuis. This coral has actually grown a fair amount, and is one of the ones previously undergoing STN. As you can see, there's no evidence now of tissue loss. The next one is acropora austera. This is actually a beautiful little frag, and unfortunately it's a little out of focus, but you can at least appreciate the color, sort of (purple with green tips). Here's the left side of the reef. The upper deck from left to right consists of the small frogspawn, a. tenuis and a. nana. The lower deck contains a green monti cap and the recovering blasto colony. Here's another shot of the left side. I've included this one since it looks a little over the top of the "upper deck" revealing some frags positioned more toward the center and right of the tank. This image shows the right side of the reef. This shows all 5 of my acro frags. From left to right are a. nana, a. tenuis, a. austera, a. hemprichii, and my first acro - a tricolor that hasn't grown a bit as far as I can tell. Here's a similar view and I'm including it because the clownfish took such a nice pose. The acro in front of the sixline is a. hemprichii and it's supposed to be a gold color. It was gold originally but unfortunately it's become quite bleached and white-looking. The tips are still green and the polyps extend occasionally, and I think there's some new growth on it, so I'm sure it's not dead. I hope the color will return over time. And one last shot, down at substrate level. Just to the right of the clownfish's tail is an acan lord frag that is doing much better now, and above it you can see a lettuce nudi crawling over some zoos.
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The Dude abides |
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Very nice. Thanks for the update.
Alex, that Hydor rotating device shoots water at an angle. As it rotates, the angle is pivoted with it. You will not have a jet of water, and the flow will vary as it pivots 360 degrees. If it is near the surface, you'll see a small mound of water as it moves from 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock. They don't cost much online, and quite a few people use them.
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
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Wow, your tank is really looking good! I especially like that six line wrasse.
Melev- Thanks for the clarification. I couldnt really figure out from research what direction it made the water flow. If I am going w/ 3 maxi jet 1200's do you think that I should get one for all of them, or should I wait to see how I set up my rock and powerheads, and then decide how many to get? |
#456
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I'd probably get two, if I were you. Use them as you see fit. If you don't like them, store them for a later use because there will be a time when you'll find their usefulness of value.
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
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Ok , I went and bought the following at the lfs:
2 hydor flo's 4 MJ 1200's ( 1 for the aquaC remora which I already have) 1 ebo jager test supplies I already have the tank and skimmer. Now for the questions: Anything else I need before adding sand and rock? I had a 20 long on my stand, and replaced it with a 37, will the stand hold it? What can I use to paint the back of the glass blue? I hate seeing wires and stuff on the back. |
#458
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You need salt for saltwater. Hydrometer or refractometer to measure salinity. Thermometer. Lighting.
For the background, you can buy blue background from your LFS by the foot, or you can paint the tank, or you can get blue sign material from your local hobby shop and velcro it to the back of the tank. The stand may be able to support the new tank if it is built well and remains stable.
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
#459
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I am buying saltwater from the lfs and their RO for top-offs. I have the lighting, just forgot to mention it! Here is my question about the hydrometer: I dont want to spend a whole lot of money on a refractometer, so can I just buy a cheap hydrometer? I would measure the salinity right when it gets poured into the tank, before there is any chance of evaporation, and mark where the salinity should be w/ a sharpie (probably not good, what should I mark it with?). Even though the hydrometer would measure off a little, I would still know where the salinity should be, will this work?
What do most people use to paint the glass? How do I know if the stand is well built? Any specific things to look for? |
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To be honest, I'm happy to answer your questions as are others here. However, it is unkind to hijack a thread with an abundance of questions for your own tank. This thread in particular is a diary thread, so a few questions to the original poster are usually a non-issue, but that isn't what is happening here.
So start a new thread, and ask your questions. You'll get answers. Now, since I'm typing, I'll answer what you've asked, but then we have to give the thread back to its rightful owner. A cheap hydrometer is better than nothing at all, but they can be very inaccurate. You can get 5 off the shelf at the LFS (local fish store) and test one of their tanks and get 5 different readings. So whatever you get, consider it a temporary purchase rather than the tool you'll use for the next year to 18 months. I see refractometers up for sale around $40 on various e-tailer websites regularly. Matter of fact, in your own thread, just ask if anyone has seen them on sale, and links will magically appear over time. Rather than using a sharpie to mark your tool, learn which number you are aiming for. My reefs run at 1.026sg (specific gravity). You might run yours a little lower since you are new to the hobby, and might not realize your salinity is getting too high too quickly. So 1.023 would be a good range, especially if your hydrometer is off Some think their tank is 1.026 only to later find out it is 1.030 once they get a refractometer. I've never painted a tank, so I can't say from personal experience, but I think you want Krylon Fusion paint. I think a background from the LFS is easier to apply, just taping it in place. If you go that route, be sure to run a full strip of tape along the top of the background attaching it the top trim. You want to create a barrier so no water or salt creep can drip between the background and the glass. Make sure you top off daily, not every few days. With the tank you have now, is the stand stable or shaky? With a larger heavier tank, shaky would translate into future disaster. I'd look at how it is built and analyze if the wood could handle the load.
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
#461
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sorry about the hijack
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#462
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Thanks for the advice. I have moved my Skimmer intake and heater as suggested...
and added a cleaner crew of: 15 - Scarlet Hermits 2 - Emerald Crabs 50 - Blue-leg Hermits 12 - Astae Snails 2 - Fighting Conch 12 - Nassarius Snails 6 - Nerite Snails 12 - Cerith Snails 1 - Red Brittle Star 1 - Serpent Star 4 - Peppermint Shrimp In addition I added two small Ricordia. It sounded like they would be a good, easy start. I also have ordered 2 Maxi-Jet 1200's to add to the tank for flow. To answer your questions, my return to my main tank is a "Mega-Flow" which you can see an expample of on the All-Glass website (http://www.all-glass.com/products/aq...low_demo.shtml). I was also asked about the Mag 9.5 proving to much flow through the sump and if you look at the picture you can see there is a ball-valve in-line to turn that down. My next questions are when should I begin adding SPS/LPS and do any of you know where I can get some starter frags? It sounded to me like there is a fair amount of trading/donating that takes place in this online community and I would just like to know where to start. Thanks. |
#463
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You can contact your local club to get corals in trade. It is possible to get some from members here on RC in the Coral Trading Forum, or even on Ebay. It is best not to get them too soon though, if your tank is young.
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
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Hey Dudester,
The latest pics are really great. Glad the tank came together for you and that you are off on a BIG adventure with your next tank. This is a great thread and has provided tons of valuable insight as I embark on my first reef tank. Since you and your buds have been a most entertaining and informative group I have to ask if there is a thread for your new tank? James |
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axciom333,
[welcome]
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
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I'm just getting back from being away for nearly a week, hence the lack of replies. I must say, I'm a little disappointed. As starved for pics as everyone is, I finally post a bunch, and the only comments regarding the photos are from Melev (always appreciated, of course), Alex, and axciom333.
Oh, by the way axciom333, To Reef Central No other questions or comments about the corals? OK then, I'll first address the comments made while I was gone, then I'll update the thread with new stuff. So here goes ... melev - Quote:
alexk3954 - Thanks for the compliment. Yes, the sixline is a beautiful fish. Read along (that is if you're still out there) for a sad story about that very fish. Oh, and glad you got your questions answered. Melev's right in that there are tons of people here to help you. I don't mind you asking questions here, since I learn as well, but your purpose will probably be better served in a thread of your own . I definitely support reef-related questions posted here on this thread. The more information available in one place, the better, as far as I'm concerned. I'd just like to echo a comment that Melev made to you about the MaxiJet 1200's. Definitely get 2 and if you don't use them immediately, trust me, you will eventually for some reason or another. In fact, I just bought another one only 1 week ago. I think I now have 4 of them, in addition to some MJ 600s and 900s. And they're all being used for one thing or another. For example, I use the MJ1200 to mix my saltwater, and I have 2 mixing containers. I also have a MJ1200 hooked up to vinyl tubing for transfering water. When I had to fix my CL pump, I put 2 MJ1200s in my tank for circulation. You can never have enough! ToTaLCHaoS13 - Love the new sump setup, and it looks like an excellent choice for your cleanup crew! Keep an eye on the fighting conch(s). They have a rather large appetite and require a large amount of substrate to adequately nourish them. I think I remember that 1 fighting conch needs almost 2 cubic feet of substrate. You could probably add a hardy LPS pretty soon (like a frogspawn or hammer coral), as long as your nitrates are very low and your other parameters are stable. By the way, what's your pH, Ca and alk? I wouldn't add any SPS for quite some time. I think I waited about 3 months before adding my first SPS frag, and I didn't add any more for over a month after that. I don't have my log with me right now (yes, I keep a log of every addition I make to my tank, as well as every loss, chemical parameter, treatment, and overall interesting observations) but I'll check it and give you more exact dates if you're interested. axciom333 - Glad you like the pics. Yes, the tank has come together, but it's far from perfect. I still have bryopsis, flatworms, a horrendously loud fan, and lots of exposed live rock. All of these will change in time, however. Muuuuaaaahhhh. Good luck with your first reef -- you've found the right place for help! The thread for my new tank is here . It's kind of interesting to read it now, since the title indicates I'll be setting up a 180-280g tank. In actuality, and not yet mentioned in the thread, I'm setting up a 450 gallon tank. Once I have some final drawings and equipment plans, I'll update the thread. Stay tuned ... Now, for the new news. As you all know by now, I'm unable to leave town without something bad happening to my tank. When I got home, I first noticed a dry floor. This was good. Unfortunately, the next thing I noticed was a larger population of flatworms than I had been used to seeing. I did a quick head count, which should have equalled "2" and I only came up with "1." My sixine wrasse was gone. Our house sitter/fish watcher left town the day I returned, so I haven't had a chance to talk with her to find out if she even noticed that one fish was missing. If you recall, the last time I left town a sixline wrasse disappeared. There are no visible remains and no crispies on the floor. It was so pretty and healthy when I left, and a real flatworm killer to boot. I missed this fish so much that ... I got another one today! I also got a Rainford's goby (Amblygobius rainfordi), a fighting conch, and a beautiful purple with green mouthed Favites coral. I'll get pics of this coral soon. Speaking of pics, I have one image that's back-logged, that is, I forgot to post this one. This is my setup for cleaning gear with muriatic acid. Notice the chemical-proof gloves. To clean out the skimmer, I simply placed it in the rubbermaid tub with dilute muriatic acid and plugged it in. After about 30 minutes it was spotless. I used this same tub to clean out my pumps.
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The Dude abides |
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Durnet, out-welcomed by Melev once again. Cursed long posts!
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The Dude abides |
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Sorry about that. I saw it needed doin'.....
I'm going to do the same thing with the ASM G-3 I bought a few weeks ago, for the unbelievable price of $60.
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
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Dudester - Sorry to hear about the Wrasse (again). Man, it seems that there are a lot of just plain "disappearing fish" in this hobby. I think I've had at least three of them in my tank's short life.
I was in Atlanta all last week at a High School Robotics National Championsip competition. My son stayed home to watch the tank. He called one morning to say that the Green Chromis was lying on the floor in front of the tank, all dried up. That was the only fish that had survived from day one in my tank, since last October. Like you, something bad always seems to happen when I'm away for a few days, and also, my tank has not been conducive to the survival of many fish. Yesterday I bought another Royal Gramma at the big sale at AA to keep the Maroon Clown company. Are you going to the Austin Reef Club meeting next Saturday at 2:00PM? I'm definitely planning to drive down. Bruce |
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sucks about the six line wrasse . I wish you luck with the next one. It sounds like you really like the maxi jets. Have yours ever seized up? I was reading an article which said powerheads tend to produce a little bit of heat, so calcium (or something) builds up on them faster than anywhere else in the tank. Then if they get turned off, when they turn on again, the propellor(?) might not spin, but the thing is still on causing it to heat up a lot. Then from heat the thing might even crack and release stuff into the water. I am concerned because if I run them on a wavemaker which turns them on and off a lot, might they seize up and cause a wipeout? (hopefully this wont be regarded as another hi-jack, just a question about maxijets b/c dudester said he uses them a lot )
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Maxijets are pretty much the most reliable / affordable pump you can buy. Heat is really not an issue with them, and they only seize up if calcium levels are too high in the tank or if you drip a lot of kalkwasser.
Nothing a good soaking in vinegar and water can't fix. I've had the same Maxijets for years.
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
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melev - 60 bucks for an ASM-G3? You lucky dog! Fire up that acid and burn baby, burn.
Bruce - Welcome back, how was the Georgia aquarium? Sorry to hear about your chromis ... I think they're known for carpet surfing so I can't say I'm all that surprised since you don't have a huge tank (I'm not trying to be mean, I really am sorry). Too bad I missed you at the AA sale, that's where I got the items I listed above. I saw the Royal Grammas (there must have been 50 of them) and was tempted to buy one myself. I don't know if I'm working this Saturday or not, but if I'm not, then I'll definitely go to the ARC meeting. Alex - Like Melev said, MJ's are very reliable. And cheap! If one of them seizes on you, clean it out and just replace it with the spare that you'll probably buy. The MJ1200 that powers my skimmer had it's impeller "seize" due calcium deposition that occurred after 6 months of use. I have now put myself on a schedule to clean out all of the MJ impellers every 5 months, and in this way I hope to prevent the pumps from becoming clogged with deposits.
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The Dude abides |
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Clean only every 5 months! I thought I would be cleaning them about every month, so thats good news. How do you usually clean your MJ's? Do you dissasemble them and scrub, or run them in a muriatic acid solution?
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#474
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Cleaning them monthly will produce better results, and avoid issues early on. It doesn't take long, and can be cleaned in the sink with water and a toothbrush. If you want to make it easier, drop them in a bucket of water and vinegar, and plug them in for an hour. Then disassemble and clean them, rinsing well.
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Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
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OK, I'll change my schedule to every 4 months .
Yesterday I got a lot done with the tank. A week away equals the need for some tuning up. I did a water change, positioned my new coral where I want it, and pruned bryopsis and other algae for about an hour. I originally bought 3 lettuce nudis but I've only been counting 2 in the tank for the last 2-3 weeks. Upon my return I only found 1 in the tank, and this may be why my bryopsis increased in volume. During my water change, I found a lettuce nudi in the sump drawer. I thought it was dead but after scooping it out, I felt it move in my hand. I therefore replaced it into the tank and could tell it was quite emaciated. Poor little guy must have been crushed under the waterfall of my sump's spray bar and starving for days. Once returned to the tank, the Nassarius snails began to converge upon it and tried to eat it alive. I couldn't sit back and let nature take it's course, especially when I paid for that nature and there was plenty of food in the tank to nurse this little slug back to health. So I rescued it from the snails and replaced it on a little patch of bryopsis. Later I saw it being chased along the glass by another hungry snail, and I again rescued it. As of this morning it's still in the tank and I'm happy to say that it's visibly fatter and healthier, hopefully with a belly full of bryopsis! I also have halimeda, valonia, a lettuce algae of some sort, and an odd green algae that looks like 100-legged spiders. I don't mind this stuff, since it's quite easy to peel off of the rocks. I pruned much of this algae along with the bryopsis. In doing so, however, I did manage to knock off my A. nana frag, but this was easily re-mounted and the polyps were fully extended a short time later. By the way, does popping the bubble of valonia kill it, or does it just re-grow in the same spot? Speaking of extended polyps, I shined a light on my new Favites coral after lights-out, and the whole thing was covered with little extended tentacles searching for plankton. Fortunately I fed my tank with H2O coral food, and I hope it got some nutrition. I'll try to photograph this coral in the next day or two.
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The Dude abides |
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