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  #426  
Old 03/23/2006, 11:28 PM
sadsak sadsak is offline
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Very nice paul! good stuff.
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  #427  
Old 03/24/2006, 12:15 AM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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Tonight I finished the closed loop and ran the first leak test. Basically i filled all the pipes with water and then closed all the valves off. Should there be a leak the water will only drain from the pipes, not the tank. I did have a small drip, but once the union was tightened more, it was gone. So far so good. Ill leave the CL like that for a day and see what happens, then ill begin running it and test the system again. Its likely any small leaks will only be noticeable once the system is pressurized.

Heres a view from under the tank of all the pipes.



Next step.....begin working on the sumps. By the end of the weekend im hoping to have the system running with tap water.

P.
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  #428  
Old 03/24/2006, 07:23 AM
DerekW DerekW is offline
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If the valves are closed how does air get into the pipes to displace leaking water? Assumming there's a leak that is
Also, what's the clear tube with the elbow?
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  #429  
Old 03/24/2006, 10:32 AM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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The valves were open and water will not support its own wweight to a great degree. If there is some air trapped at the top of the system, small leaks will still become apparent.

The bent tube you mentioned is the connectore from the OM to one of the outlets. The OM and the connector to that outlet are very close so I had to make a loop, the elbow is to stop creasing of the pipe.
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  #430  
Old 03/24/2006, 10:41 AM
MyMonkey MyMonkey is offline
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WOW. Very nice Paul.
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  #431  
Old 03/24/2006, 11:01 AM
Travis L. Stevens Travis L. Stevens is offline
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Paul, how come you didn't use something like SpaFlex PVC pipe? Does it just nor bend sharp enough?
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  #432  
Old 03/24/2006, 11:07 AM
cseeton cseeton is offline
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I'm not sure about using the clear vinyl tubes with 5 feet of water head sitting on top of them for long lengths of time...
  #433  
Old 03/24/2006, 12:23 PM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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bending spaflex can be a problem.
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  #434  
Old 03/24/2006, 12:24 PM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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My other tank is plumbed similarly and ahs been for 2.5 years with no problems. I periodically check the tubes for weaknesses or inability to flex.
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  #435  
Old 03/24/2006, 12:54 PM
Ixthys Ixthys is offline
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Have you ever noticed (with that type of clear tubing) it flexing/bending too much, over time?

I had that happen, and it started to restrict flow.
  #436  
Old 03/24/2006, 01:10 PM
eddybabyhd eddybabyhd is offline
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or at least the high pressure braded stuff doesnt bend...i havent ever has a problem with that
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  #437  
Old 03/24/2006, 02:25 PM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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The pipe will be under pressure. If pressurized it doesnt do that and with the exception of obne piece, it is all straight lengths anyway.
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  #438  
Old 03/24/2006, 06:50 PM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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well the CL is running, I would have liked to see more flow, but its doing OK.

Once the main returns are done from the sump the flow should be more than adequate.

Time to move to the sumps and the main overflows.

Paul.
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President Central Okla. Marine Aq. Soc.
  #439  
Old 03/28/2006, 08:56 AM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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Heres how we are looking so far:





Next step:....lay pipe work through the wall to the garage, get the sumps fitted out.

The dining table you can se in the pictures will not be staying in that room once I get the false wall fitted. Not sure exactly what I will be doing in that room, but theres no rush to get it done.

The water testing went well, on saturday/sunday I plan on draining and adding 400lbs sand (precured) and the 360g water. I have the water made ready for it.

Paul.
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Paul W Whitby Ph.D
President Central Okla. Marine Aq. Soc.
  #440  
Old 03/28/2006, 09:48 AM
captbunzo captbunzo is offline
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Woohoo!!!
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  #441  
Old 03/28/2006, 10:02 AM
mdiddy7s mdiddy7s is offline
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I heard that 90 degree PVC elbows will reduce the amount of flow from your pump to the display and increase how hard it has to work (increases the heat output) to get it done. It was suggested that 45 degree elbows would be better. What is your opinion on this? Your plumbing work looks good, and is similar to mine, as far as 90's go but I am thinking that I might try a new technique with the next system.
Mike D

PS I will definitely be going with the 4-way next time rather than the OM squirt. I just do not get enough flow like I would like and I am limited to 1200gph through the chamber.
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  #442  
Old 03/28/2006, 10:07 AM
asnatlas asnatlas is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mdiddy7s
I heard that 90 degree PVC elbows will reduce the amount of flow from your pump to the display and increase how hard it has to work (increases the heat output) to get it done. It was suggested that 45 degree elbows would be better.
I have also heard that every 90deg you all will add something like a ft of head pressure... So if you have 4ft head with 4x 90's it will equal about 8ft of head pressure...
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  #443  
Old 03/28/2006, 10:27 AM
eddybabyhd eddybabyhd is offline
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mdiddy, the super squirt can handle up to 2200 GPH...and i think paul was wanting more velocity than volume...45's dont make that much difference, since closed loops have zero head pressure before plumbing them...

i think it would have been harder to plumb with 45's personally, and it seems this undertaking is quite a hurdle...i have always used 90's, but then again, i have always ahd more pump than i needed
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  #444  
Old 03/28/2006, 10:37 AM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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The premise on this plumbing is to add another pump at a later date. to do that I just open the unions and refit a new half of the union with the new plumbing components.

I wanted to avoid as many 90s as possible, but had to have some unfortunately. Flex pipe is by far the best option.

P.
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President Central Okla. Marine Aq. Soc.
  #445  
Old 03/28/2006, 11:12 AM
Ixthys Ixthys is offline
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I can't quote the reference, but I did read here on RC that a physics-type guy compared using two 45's vs. one 90 and the 90 actually had less resistance/head pressure.

Plus, it is mildly difficult to work with two 45's over a 90.

Wish I could find the link....so take it FWIW
  #446  
Old 03/28/2006, 04:08 PM
Untamed12 Untamed12 is offline
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What pump is driving that CL? (my apologies, if you said what it was 45 pages ago...)

IF...if you decide to add the 2nd CL, how would you replumb? Would you also add a 2nd OM4way?

I was mapping out the possibility of using the 8 outlets, driven by 2 OM4way CLs...yet enabling all 8 outlets to be driven by BOTH CLs. In other words, you could disconnect/service one of the CL systems and all 8 outlets would continue to operate.

Or....you could have each CL only connected to 4 outlets.
  #447  
Old 03/28/2006, 04:18 PM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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the pump is a sequence 4200

I will simply plumb each side of the tank to a single pump with an OM 4 way. So two outlets on the bottom and 2 on the back per pump.

Paul.
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President Central Okla. Marine Aq. Soc.
  #448  
Old 03/28/2006, 04:35 PM
Untamed12 Untamed12 is offline
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Hmm...I was planning on using a Dart for my CL. That 4200 has a lot more muscle. Even then, you are thinking that you might need additional flow. It sounds like I'll certainly be needing 2 CLs.

Your CL inlets were only 1.5", right? If you split them, you have only a single 1.5" inlet to the 2" intake of the 4200. That's not a problem, is it?
  #449  
Old 03/28/2006, 04:47 PM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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Im installing a reducer on the outlets (3/4inch) until each outlet is directly connected to the outlet of its own OM. Then each 1 inch outlet of the OM will feed a single 1 inch return to the tank.
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President Central Okla. Marine Aq. Soc.
  #450  
Old 03/28/2006, 04:49 PM
pwhitby pwhitby is offline
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Its easy enough to drill the back of the tank, even after I add water, to make another inlet for the CL.

Im leaving it as it is for now since I have no idea when I will be adding another CL.

well spotted tho!
P.
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