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#301
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Quote:
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Thanks, Robert |
#302
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As with any irregular shaped surface your going to have to make sure that you have adequate water flow or detrius can accumulate.
Are you talking about having the cement stick to the acrylic and then silicone the whole thing to the back? I don't think cement will adhere to the acrylic too well. |
#303
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Well, I got a 6' 125g. I allready got the starboard in it. Yesterday I drilled 4x1" holes in the corners of the back panal for the CL returns and a 2" hole to feed it. I'm planning to buy a Dart to run the CL and an OM4way. I'm planning to cut each end of the tank for external overflows to feed the sump. I allready have the sump return pump (pcx-55) and two penductors. How's my flow sound so far?
What would you suggest to attatch it to the back wall? I'd rather do this to avoide dead zones.
__________________
Thanks, Robert |
#304
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My friend has a couple of rocks that have small contact points with the rock wall along the back of the aquarium. These rocks hold the rock wall completely flat against the glass. There aren't any dead zones by doing it this way.
I think it sound like you'll have pretty good flow. |
#305
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I used insulation foam for the backing on mine, then siliconed it to the glass.
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#306
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How well did the insulation foam hold to the cement? Did you use a spray on foam?
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#307
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Heres my original build thread, at the bottom are mostly up to date pics.
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=523325 I used a blowtorch to roughen the surface so the cement would stick, I've had no problems with it to date, going on 1.5 years in place now. |
#308
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That looks great moses. I think I'll steal a few ideas from that, if you don't mind.
__________________
Thanks, Robert |
#309
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Thanks! I got my inspiration from some cichlid keeper forums, as well as the wealth of knowlege here.
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#310
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Crap! Now i just got about a million more ideas! Thanks a lot!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by speckled trout; 04/04/2006 at 01:12 PM. |
#311
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Okay, I finished two batches of DIY Live rock. At first I though that it was really going to suck, but after everything hardend it actually looked pretty good and held up well together.
I also added some sea salt to increase porisity - read this in the new Sprung book. Still wonder though, what is the drip/layer method? |
#312
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Drip layer means to add cement slowly to the rock that you're creating. It will create a lot of porosity if you use a slightly dry mixture and don't pack the cement together when your forming your rock. To do this, take a small pinch of the wet cement and kinda dribble it into place with the rest of wet cement that you've already added to your mold. If it's done properly the finished rock will end up with lots of porosity. Too wet of cement and packing it together will create a rock without air pockets inside of it. Don't do this if your trying to create a rock that will be benefical for biofiltration.
The more decorative pieces don't utilize this method because you have to "pinch" the cement together to ensure that plenty of cement is always in contact with itself and the rest of the new structure that you're making. If you don't the multiple branching rock will simply turn into a bunch of smaller branching rocks. Also, try making rocks with shorter branches at first. The rocks with longer thin branches are much more difficult to make and require a little practice. |
#313
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Hey everyone, I have not tried my hand at making rocks yet, but i was wondering, if i were going to try and make some frag plugs, about the size of a raquetball.... would i still need to cure them and everything, or being that they are so small, could i just place them into the sump of my tank?
Mike |
#314
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I've found that even smallish pieces need a a little while to cure, though not the typical 6 weeks or so. Toss them in a bucket of FW for a week and test the pH and see where you end up.
__________________
Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside....only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#315
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tank pic
Here's a pic of my 105g. I'm no photographer, so I apologize for the quality of the pic. Most of the rock is agrocrete and is starting to get covered with coral.
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#316
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tank pic
Here's a pic of my 105g. I'm no photographer, so I apologize for the quality of the pic. Most of the rock is agrocrete and is starting to get covered with coral.
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#317
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#318
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your tank looks natural! That is the best DIY LR tank I have ever seen......
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#319
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Great Info.
Thanks Alot. Bill. |
#320
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Wow, I hadn't looked at those pics in awhile! That little green monti is quite a bit bigger now. It was just a little nub back then!
![]() It's cool to compare before and afters. The stuff just keeps growing. |
#321
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So do you have any updated pics?
Have you had any new ideas that you have tried out yet? Bill. |
#322
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Here's one from the side up on top. My pc's aren't very strong and I have to place my rocks in sort of an unnatural way to get the corals close enough to the light source in my 30" deep tank. Hopefully, I be able to buy some MH's in the future, with my wife's permission, of course!
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#323
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Nice
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Somethings Fishy Around Here!! |
#324
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How long do you let it sit in the mold before you take it out. I have tried making these and everytime my structure crumbles. Getting very frustrating. My first batch seemed to be the best - 3 tries later and i think i am getting worse at it.
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#325
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Quote:
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__________________
Whoever said fishkeeping will lower your blood pressure never had a reef aquarium... "A facility for quotation covers the absence of original thought." -Lord Peter Wimsey, "Gaudy Night" |
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