Kong's Restored BB (90g)

[ReefWreak]

lol thanks for the complements

Yea, I'm up at school, away from my tank for months at a time, so that was the growth after a week of having a calcium reactor but not being home at all that week. I was gone for a month at one point with the calcium reactor keeping up levels, and the viewable portion of my tank was about 2x1x1, down from 4x2x2. The coralline grew about 12" in on each side. It was quite interesting.

Because of your luck and a few other's luck with Vortechs, I'm going to try my friend's out, and probably end up buying one as well. Then I can finally get the sides of the tank cleaned up a bit and reclaim some of that lost real estate that is being taken up by those giant powerheads with the magnets and their arms and other crap. I'm very excited.

Thanks again, and I'm looking forward to your next update

[King-Kong]

Wow.. month at a time? Impressive automation with your setup, then.

You've made a good system if you can leave it a lone that long... especially with all those pretty SPS

[ReefWreak]

Thanks! It's not totally automated. The parents add water and feed every day or two, but the reactor is dialed in rock solid, and I have to pay my brother to clean the skimmer every week or so. I could drill it, but I know the neck could clog too much in a month and stop skimming, and also I have to worry about flooding because sometimes the ER does that...

I'm actually waiting to get home for school winter break so I can set up my new Aquatronica, so then I'll be really automated. Set up the skimmer with a flood sensor to shut it off in case of an overflow, same with the sump and other stuff. I'll get the ethernet module so I can check on the tank/control it remotely, get email notifications sent to my phone and/or email account when something is going awry. I can't wait to get rid of the pH controller, pH monitor, temp controller, etc etc etc and just have the aquatronica setup and controlling everything. Now if only they could add a vortech/tunze controller (I hear they're working on it).

The SPS in that picture were right before they started to decline, and I couldn't figure out why for 2-3 weeks. Then when I was home, I just figured I'd pull out one of the encrusted acros and see what was up and why it was losing tissue. Surely enough it was RB, which was a total shock to me because I treat EVERYTHING that goes into my tank with a HUGE dose of interceptor and fluke tab (for RB and AEFW). So the last 3 weeks I've been going home every weekend and treating the whole tank, then big water changes and carbon, and now my parents are saying that the corals have colored up much much better than before. I'm very excited.

Thanks again for the complements, and let it be known that your contribution to this hobby is an influence and a point of aspiration.

Cheers,

Eric

[King-Kong]

Originally posted by ReefWreak
Thanks! It's not totally automated. The parents add water and feed every day or two, but the reactor is dialed in rock solid, and I have to pay my brother to clean the skimmer every week or so. I could drill it, but I know the neck could clog too much in a month and stop skimming, and also I have to worry about flooding because sometimes the ER does that...

I'm actually waiting to get home for school winter break so I can set up my new Aquatronica, so then I'll be really automated. Set up the skimmer with a flood sensor to shut it off in case of an overflow, same with the sump and other stuff. I'll get the ethernet module so I can check on the tank/control it remotely, get email notifications sent to my phone and/or email account when something is going awry. I can't wait to get rid of the pH controller, pH monitor, temp controller, etc etc etc and just have the aquatronica setup and controlling everything. Now if only they could add a vortech/tunze controller (I hear they're working on it).

The SPS in that picture were right before they started to decline, and I couldn't figure out why for 2-3 weeks. Then when I was home, I just figured I'd pull out one of the encrusted acros and see what was up and why it was losing tissue. Surely enough it was RB, which was a total shock to me because I treat EVERYTHING that goes into my tank with a HUGE dose of interceptor and fluke tab (for RB and AEFW). So the last 3 weeks I've been going home every weekend and treating the whole tank, then big water changes and carbon, and now my parents are saying that the corals have colored up much much better than before. I'm very excited.

Thanks again for the complements, and let it be known that your contribution to this hobby is an influence and a point of aspiration.

Cheers,

Eric

Nice that you squashed out the RBs. I had them once, and they do a good job on weakening certain acros..

The odd thing is, they are so easy to treat, i cant believe they exist in the hobby as much as they do!


Small Update: I purchased 3 more threadfins today from the LFS. All were eating, so hopefully they will continue to do the same here.

I also purchased a small ORA Blue Tort frag.. I will try to take a pic tomorrow and post it. It had RBs, but I was able to treat it with a super high dosage of TMPCC and then a long bath in some interceptor.

Everything continues to grow very well, so I am pleased. Hopefully I can snap some tank shots soon!

[King-Kong]

Got another 25g waterchange done today.. corals lookin good.

The 3 new threadfins are eating! Weee! I think that means I can expect all 3 to survive, so that will bring my school up to 10 total!


Also, I installed a solenoid shut off/on for my RO/DI reservoir.

What it does it only allows my RO to be turned on for large blocks of time (say, once an hour/day) during which time it can fill up my reservoir (which has a float valve).

The problem with going directly from a float valve->RO machine is that it can create an issue called 'TDS creep'. The rapid on/off of the RO doesnt allow a proper pressure to buildup inside of the RO membrane, and this in turn allows bad/dirty water to get through it.

Since my aquamedic parastaltic pump is SLOWER than the RO's fill rate, the RO turns on/off very rapidly as the pump tops off my fish tank. This causes TDS creep which burns up your DI and eventually leads to higher TDS in your water.

So, I have been having to turn on my RO machine by hand for a few hours every week.. this is a chore cause i have to remember, and is also bad if i have to leave for long trips.

The solenoid will allow me to set a timer for it, and all should be well in the land again.

The solenoid (wired, with power supply) can be purchased here http://www.thefilterguys.biz/top-off_controller.htm (2nd on the list)

Here are pics of the solenoid:

[hurleycr]

That's a cool idea.... I was having the same issue. So what I did was instal two float switchs in the sump. This way it has to evaporate about three gallons before the water pump in my holding tank will kick on. This way the RO/DI has to make at least three gallons of water. When I construct my new sump I will more than likely create a larger area so that it will have to creat somewhere along the lines of 5-10 gallons at a wack.

I do say though yours would have been easier and cheaper in the long run. O'well..... When's that tank shot getting up. Havn't seen the tank in a while.

[zach0660]

Do you have any updated pics?

[King-Kong]

oo Hurley, I like your idea better, though.

So the float switches in the reservoir hook up to the solenoid?

I think im going to do that, because that is back to true automation, which I want.


Zach: not yet... maybe during the week I can take some shots of some new stuff and how the old stuff is growing back.

[SeanT]

[hurleycr]

Originally posted by King-Kong
oo Hurley, I like your idea better, though.

So the float switches in the reservoir hook up to the solenoid?

I think im going to do that, because that is back to true automation, which I want.


Zach: not yet... maybe during the week I can take some shots of some new stuff and how the old stuff is growing back.

THis is what I got.

RO/DI to holding tank of Three gallons with a float valve. When holding tank is full the auto shut off on my RO/DI shuts the unit down once the pressure builds up from the float switch being activiated.

Then I have two float switchs in the sump, so at full volume in the sump both switchs are in active. As evaporation happens then the first switch will drop to active. As more evaporation happens (approx. 3 gallons) the second will drop making both switchs active. Which activates the pump in the holding container of RO/DI water. It will pump until both switchs are set back to inactive status. At that point pump shuts off and the container is empty, meaning the float valve on the container is inactive and RO/DI is flowing back into the container, until full again.

Effectively making it produce 3 gallons at a whack instead of turn off/on multiple times a day. This has worked wonders for me. I check TDS once monthly and that is IT. There is a cautious note here though. If something where to go wrong and the Valve in the holding container went bad or something, it will make water until you turn it off or the valve is re-activated.

HOWEVER, with a solenoid like you have then yes I would assume that would work as a true safety. Now I think I will have to go buy one of those nifty little buggers.

With that said, I went and spent the money on the really nice Kent float Valve, and its worked like a champ.

[King-Kong]

Originally posted by hurleycr
THis is what I got.

RO/DI to holding tank of Three gallons with a float valve. When holding tank is full the auto shut off on my RO/DI shuts the unit down once the pressure builds up from the float switch being activiated.

Then I have two float switchs in the sump, so at full volume in the sump both switchs are in active. As evaporation happens then the first switch will drop to active. As more evaporation happens (approx. 3 gallons) the second will drop making both switchs active. Which activates the pump in the holding container of RO/DI water. It will pump until both switchs are set back to inactive status. At that point pump shuts off and the container is empty, meaning the float valve on the container is inactive and RO/DI is flowing back into the container, until full again.

Effectively making it produce 3 gallons at a whack instead of turn off/on multiple times a day. This has worked wonders for me. I check TDS once monthly and that is IT. There is a cautious note here though. If something where to go wrong and the Valve in the holding container went bad or something, it will make water until you turn it off or the valve is re-activated.

HOWEVER, with a solenoid like you have then yes I would assume that would work as a true safety. Now I think I will have to go buy one of those nifty little buggers.

With that said, I went and spent the money on the really nice Kent float Valve, and its worked like a champ.

Ok, let me fully describe my system (before the solenoid was installed).

RO into my reservoir (~15 gallons) controlled by float valve (like yours).

Reservoir has an aquamedia parastaltic pump inside it.

Parastaltic pump is controlled by float switches in tank sump. Water evaporates, pump turns on, slowly emptying reservoir.

Problem is, the pump works slower than the RO generates water. So, RO is getting turned off and on very rapidly due to it quickly catching up to the parastaltic pump, thus creating TDS creep.

Proposed fixed for my system: setup ANOTHER pair of float switches inside the reservoir that only turn on the new SOLENOID when ~3 gallons are evaporated.


This way, I get constant evaporation control during the day, and my RO doesnt experience TDS Creep. I am going to order an extra set of float switches right now; thanks!


One note about my system: my parastaltic pump actually feeds to a kalkwasser reactor, and the pump is actually controlled by a milwakee pH controller that will shut off all top off if the pH in the system gets above a certain amount.. this wasnt necessary to my above description of my system, however

[seattownreefer]

im having the exact same issues with the tissue loss and slow grow on my acros. i noticed that when i started to feed capfuls of photoplankton. this is the stuff i am feeding.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Live-Phytoplankt...QQcmdZViewItem

i dont think this stuff is harmful but im going to stop dosing for a month. thanks for the updates on your thread and i hope everything is well with your tank.

[Reeftanks6]

post some pics

[Purple Haze]

Did you experience out-of-the-ordinary algae growth after introducing your RDSB? My alk dropped and I've been seeing a little more algae than normal especially on power heads.

After about 8-9 days, it seems to be subsiding, though.

Thanks

[King-Kong]

Originally posted by Purple Haze
Did you experience out-of-the-ordinary algae growth after introducing your RDSB? My alk dropped and I've been seeing a little more algae than normal especially on power heads.

After about 8-9 days, it seems to be subsiding, though.

Thanks

No -- to be honest, I havent noticed anything from it. Good or bad

I would assume that the sudden drop in alk would be due to the bacteria consuming it, but I would have also expected your nitrates and phosphates to drop with it, but by the sound of it, they didnt.

What kind of algae did you see?

[Purple Haze]

I would assume (long, brown stringy, but not much of it) Bryopsis.

On the power heads, something like GHA, but closer to a brown color.

Guess it's time for some water changes.

[King-Kong]

What kind of sand did you use and how was it rinsed? What about the bucket?

[King-Kong]

Ok folks, it's picture time.

I ran out of batteries in my camera, so I only got a few shots taken, and to be honest, I dont like how they came out. I just dont feel the shots represent the colors properly on some of the new corals, especially the pink millepora (which came from LiveAquaria) and has really floored me with its hot pink.

None the less, first a comparison of one of the faster re-growers, my green stag.

Here it was when the recessing was still only part way through:




Now here it is today: please note the new growth branches started to pop out. This is what it's doing all over the place!



------------------------------------------------------


Here is a photo of the new blue tort frag I just added:



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Here are a couple shots showing the new growth/tissue growing back on my ORA Blue Millepora. It lost alittle over 1" of tissue from all of it's tips, but is almost done healing back.

This first shot shows new arms growing out from the base:


Here is some new growth and showing some of the dead tips that are getting re-grown (notice the purple tissue crawling past the polyps):



and lastly an overall shot of the coral, which gives you an idea of the tip damage I sustained, but clearly shows the re-growth occuring.



------------------------------------------------------


Here is a shot of the pink millepora... the polyps, sadly, are brown, but the tissue is an absolutely BEAUTIFUL pink. Believe it or not, I am actually contemplating getting something like a dwarf angel, so they can come by and annoy the polyps, letting me see that beautiful tissue! I have noticed that there is some flourescent green in the polyps, but I only see hints of it when the actinics are on. I would like to get a better picture of this coral, as I dont think it does it justice, color-wise.




-------------------------------------------------------

Lastly, here's a pretty bad shot of some of my cardinals (and lots of bubbles wizzing by in the water). You can also see some of the re-growth that the favia is undergoing.. It lost about 1/5 of it's tissue during the recession, but it's color, meatiness, and growth are returning.

[Purple Haze]

Originally posted by King-Kong
What kind of sand did you use and how was it rinsed? What about the bucket?

Fine sand, unwashed. I let it settle before I introduced the bucket to the system but i'm sure some of it got stirred up however.

Bucket was an old IO bucket that was used for water changes mainly, but of course, was rinsed well.

Most of it has disappeared on the liverock and corals, but now it just doesn't want to stop growing on the power heads, even after blowing it off everyday. At this point, i'm about nine days into introducing the RDSB.

Thanks

[Flint&Eric]

kong, fwiw a couple weeks enough time for an RDSB to kick in.

[Reeftanks6]

great pics when u get the batteries take some tank shots and fish shots

[Purple Haze]

Originally posted by Flint&Eric
kong, fwiw a couple weeks enough time for an RDSB to kick in.

Huh? Think you missed a word.

[Flint&Eric]

the wine is getting to me, but not that difficult to make out "is"

[Purple Haze]

"Isn't" could have fit

Thanks for the clarification.

[hurleycr]

Originally posted by King-Kong
Ok, let me fully describe my system (before the solenoid was installed).

RO into my reservoir (~15 gallons) controlled by float valve (like yours).

Reservoir has an aquamedia parastaltic pump inside it.

Parastaltic pump is controlled by float switches in tank sump. Water evaporates, pump turns on, slowly emptying reservoir.

Problem is, the pump works slower than the RO generates water. So, RO is getting turned off and on very rapidly due to it quickly catching up to the parastaltic pump, thus creating TDS creep.

Proposed fixed for my system: setup ANOTHER pair of float switches inside the reservoir that only turn on the new SOLENOID when ~3 gallons are evaporated.


This way, I get constant evaporation control during the day, and my RO doesnt experience TDS Creep. I am going to order an extra set of float switches right now; thanks!


One note about my system: my parastaltic pump actually feeds to a kalkwasser reactor, and the pump is actually controlled by a milwakee pH controller that will shut off all top off if the pH in the system gets above a certain amount.. this wasnt necessary to my above description of my system, however

Wonder if the extra back pressure from the reactor is making your pump slow?

I see I fully understand now..... heck ya that'll solve it. I'm telling you was the best thing my membrane and DI catridges ever saw. I was burning up a DI every two months or so. I destroyed my first (newbie mistakes) membrane, and the other well I really have no idea what happened to it.

I have to ask how does the reactor work for your system. I'm looking into one for my tank instead of the calcium reactor. Mostly for the added benefit to perciptate phosphate.

I have always followed your threads, you really helped me out on my build over the past year. Going BB was no easy task, and i'm still not where I want to be yet to add corals. Plently of fish though.