|
|
|
|
#1
12/29/2007, 02:13 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Silicon Dry Time (Time Crunch)
Well i just drilled my 55G while it was full. This of course means I re-did the plumbing. Wondering when my silicone on the bulkheads will be ready for use? Also added a baffle to the sump.
The obvious answer is wait 24hour like the directions say, but i really don't want my tank just running on power heads and a small heater. |
|
#2
12/29/2007, 02:17 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
i would have avoided the silcone all together. but, if you used it already...... i have added water as soon as 6 hours later in a time crunch and saw no ill effects.
__________________
-Scott Whenever I’m about to do something, I think “would an idiot do that?” and if they would, I do not do that thing |
|
#3
12/29/2007, 02:24 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Why not use it.
I should point out that this is NOT whats holding the plumbing together. This is just for the threaded joins (bulkheads and Unions.) |
|
#5
12/29/2007, 02:39 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#6
12/29/2007, 03:12 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
yeah the rubber gasket on the bulkhead should seal just fine, and any threaded fittings need just teflon tape of pipe dope. the part of the union that actually comes apart in the middle also doesn't need any sort of sealent. the o-ring makes a water tight seal. you shouldn't be using silicone on any part of your plumbing.
That said, no worries, it should still hold water just let the silicone dry.
__________________
-Scott Whenever I’m about to do something, I think “would an idiot do that?” and if they would, I do not do that thing |
|
#7
12/29/2007, 03:29 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
DO NOT use silicone or any other sealant on bulkheads. Thye tend to make the gasket want to squish out and leak. The best possible seal is obtained with a completely dry surface. Alway place the gasket on the flange side of the bulkhead, regardless if its inside or out and tighten hand tight plus maybe a quarter turn.
Common problems are overtightening, using sealants and trying to support the weight of piping, fittings and pumps with the bulkheads causing differential stresses and leaks. Always support piping and fittings so the weight is not on the bulkhead. For threaded PVC fittings use either a thread sealant stick like LACO or Ace Hardware sells or a few wraps of teflon tape. Do not try to plumb anything to the outsdie threads on a bulkhead since they are not tapered pipe threads and will leak. |
|
#8
12/29/2007, 03:52 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yeah i guess i never thought of tape.
Just to put everyones minds at ease, I didn't put this on the inside of the bulkhead (gasket side) nor did i put any on the inside of the unions (rubber gasket). Everything thats sealed is threaded and NOT touching water. In other words its ONLY for a second defense against leaks. I am NOT relying on this as Glue or Gaskets or Seals. Sounds like I'm being more concerned then others and i appreciate the concerns. I just would like to know about dry time. |
|
#9
12/29/2007, 04:00 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I do have a word of warning.. I did something similar, but not with plumbing. I changed the height of the baffles in my sump for more water volume by siliconing in extensions.
I waited 22 hours for it to dry, then put the sump back inline with the system. My tank immediately started crashing (within 30 minutes) Doing some research on the web showed that the typic GE tank safe silicone takes "up to 48 hours' to dry to an inert state. I pulled it back out, did a few massive water changes, and let it dry for another 36 hours. Only lost a few things in the tank. So do be a bit careful about that baffle you added in the sump. My house was cooler with high humidity (last winter) so I'm sure that affected they cure time versus a warmer day or environment. |
|
#10
12/29/2007, 04:43 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hmmmmm, this is why i posted before filling with water. I think i might just wait the 24hrs.
Although i suspect its the silicone you used. I did make sure this is 100% reef safe and made for fish tanks. |
|
|
Linear Mode
