Need some advice on closed loop system

nu2reefs · #1 05/10/2006, 10:19 PM

Starting a 55g reef tank and hubby and I are trying to figure out the closed loop system and are either scratching our heads or banging them on the wall....you take your pick. This is what we have purchased as well as what we have done so far. I have the protein skimmer, filter system with (2) bio wheels, 2 powerheads, roughly 60lbs. LS, a couple LR from where I work, and all has been cycling for 3 weeks now. The LR has been in our salt water tanks at work for over a year so I know that they are already cured and no die off. I also have the heater, spot feeder syringe, all the salt I need, the reef and marine test kits, reef starter kit ( calcium, iodine etc.), more calcium, extra filters, hydrometer ( saving up for a refactor), nets, 3 buckets, measuring cups and spoons. I also bought a 29g to make a sump/refugium. In that I have it divided into thirds. Did all the silaconing over a week ago so I know it's cured. In the refugium I have 1" Miracle Mudd, 3" sand substrate and currently awaiting some Macro algae. My Mag 3 pump arrived in the mail today. It will do 300gph at a 4' head. Bought the PVC, elbows, couplers etc. for the closed loop system. Have not sealed them yet with PVC cement until we figured out how we were going to set it all up. Because I was unaware, I did not drill holes in the 55g tank, nor have I made an overflow box. One of the gals that I used to work with is majoring in marine biology and was starting to help me, but unable to contact her now due to her move. I know eventually, I will need to buy a RO/DI unit (until then, my work let's me take some RO water home as I need it. I will also eventually need to buy some halide lights and probably a chiller. Am I heading in the right direction? BTW, I also have a 29g salt QT set up. Also ordered a drip system to help when I finally purchase my brood for the tank. Trying to do it right the first time, cause I would hate to have things die on me because of my ignorance. Patience is a virtue in this hobby, and one that I'm willing to do in order to make this endeavor last. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

seldon · #2 05/10/2006, 10:49 PM

sounds like a pretty good plan but i would make a few changes. First, I would use more than a mag 3, especially for your 55. Second, i would loose the biowheels as they tend to be nitrate factories. Also, in the sump, the macro is good, but you may also consider a protien skimmer. Good luck on your project.

Seldon

zlwags85 · #3 05/10/2006, 10:54 PM

I have a mag3 on my 10gallon tank with about a 1 ft. head and It only turns about 270gph after the elbows etc. With a 4' head and all, I would think you would want to get a mag7 or bigger and not use the powerheads. I do like the mag pump though, not to loud and had no problems with it yet. Good luck!

nu2reefs · #4 05/10/2006, 11:02 PM

The protein skimmer will be moved from the tank to the sump area. As for the pump, many told me here in RC that a Mag 2 would work. My head clearance I'm guessing will be around 2 1/2 feet. I will remove the bio wheels pronto. Thanks and keep the advice coming.

larryp · #5 05/11/2006, 06:10 AM

hello. i might have talked to you over the phone. if your in spfld that is! i have a 55. you guys are more than welcome to get some ideas from it if you wish. some maybe worth keeping some maybe not! nothing better than checking out another 55!

Benny Z · #6 05/11/2006, 08:02 AM

fwiw, i am using a mag3 as the return pump on my 29g. i think it will be ok for the return pump as long as you have supplemental flow in the display, which you are obviously planning. you want low flow through your sump/fuge imo anyway.

that said, i probably would've gone with a mag5 if it were me. but, i think a mag3 will get the job done.

LegoZ81 · #7 05/11/2006, 08:14 AM

don't pull them both at once pull one keep an eye on ammonia make sure it does not spike wait a week then remove the other.
the live rock does not have the bacteria counts to take over for the biowheels immediately you must give the system time to adapt and the bacteria population on the liverock to grow.

LegoZ81 · #8 05/11/2006, 08:17 AM

the reason for this is that the biowheels are better for bacteria to grow on b/c they are such an oxygen rich location.
this will intern make them able to process more ammonia and nitrite then the live rock causing the bacteria on the live rock to die from essentially starvation.