IMO the g4+ would pull more air based on my readings so far. That is with out mods.

Here are a few more pics

Perfect fit in 20g long but not my sump .I wish it was just 1.5 inches smaller.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/o2manytnks/180/new-skimmer-d.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/o2manytnks/180/new-skimmer-f.jpg[/IMG]

and same metter on my g-3

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/o2manytnks/180/new-skimmer-e.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7947029#post7947029 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clkwrk [/i]
[B]RMA-6-ssv..........But why should I have to mod it out the box? I have an H&S a200-1260 that needed absolutley no modifications at all and performs like a beast.

What was the not so easy mod? [/B][/QUOTE]
Mod it, don’t mod it, It your skimmer not mine. It is just an option. For some people buying a $200 skimmer and making it perform like a $600 plus skimmer is cool and economical. No doubt the H&S 200a is a much better skimmer. I have recommended the H&S 200 just yesterday for someone to buy. At $1000 it should be in another category all together.
I have never recommended the model you bought (Recircs). Only because for me moding things is half the fun. Fun, cheaper, and better performance, that why I do mods.

The DNW-400 is probably the only recirc I would buy; I can’t wait to mod that one for someone. A 16” body 32”tall pulling 100Scfh now that will be a moded beast.

The not so easy mod is the tapering the pump outlet / "opening it up" only because you can easily go thru the plastic.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7948049#post7948049 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clkwrk [/i]
[B]

Perfect fit in 20g long but not my sump .I wish it was just 1.5 inches smaller.

[/B][/QUOTE]

Why don't you just cut the horizontal drain pipe and shorten it up?

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7948207#post7948207 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ereefic [/i]
[B]Why don't you just cut the horizontal drain pipe and shorten it up? [/B][/QUOTE]

Thats not the problem its the base length of 24 "

Ahhh, bummer.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7948097#post7948097 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques [/i]
[B]Mod it, don’t mod it, It your skimmer not mine. It is just an option. For some people buying a $200 skimmer and making it perform like a $600 plus skimmer is cool and economical. No doubt the H&S 200a is a much better skimmer. I have recommended the H&S 200 just yesterday for someone to buy. At $1000 it should be in another category all together.
I have never recommended the model you bought (Recircs). Only because for me moding things is half the fun. Fun, cheaper, and better performance, that why I do mods.

The DNW-400 is probably the only recirc I would buy; I can’t wait to mod that one for someone. A 16” body 32”tall pulling 100Scfh now that will be a moded beast.

The not so easy mod is the tapering the pump outlet / "opening it up" only because you can easily go thru the plastic. [/B][/QUOTE]

This isn't a $200 skimmer . More like $550 retail local and I like to try and support my local shops.. I just think they need to put some more time into them to refine them . or get a logo like don't forget to modifiy it . J/K

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7948244#post7948244 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ereefic [/i]
[B]Ahhh, bummer. [/B][/QUOTE]

It is because I have another skimmer chamber in my sump and it would have worked perfect. Now to use it I got to removemy chiller from under my stand , move my frag tank over , Put a 20l just incase it overflows and then put the skimmer in that and run external.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7942960#post7942960 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jabbajaw [/i]
[B]I got my NW-150 running with vinegar last night for cleaning but I was having a problem with the pump. It was barely pushing any water in the cylinder so on a whim i blew into the venturi tube and low and behold it kicked in? I redid all the connections and checked the o-rings but with the same result. I have to blow in the darn thing every time I turn it on. Anyone know of anything i can try or is it defective? [/B][/QUOTE]

I had/have the same issue, waiting for a new pump from marine solutions. another local reeefer had the same also and got a new pump and it works fine. seems to be a problem with some pumps. hopefully my new pump will arrive soon and also work. i think that coral vue is starting to become aware of the issue, seems like more people are having this happen

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7946931#post7946931 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques [/i]
[B]i got mine doing just over 20 SCFH . with some easy mods and one not so easy mod.
what model flow meter are you using? [/B][/QUOTE]

I'm up to 22 scfh Randal, on my RMA-7-SSV. Although I replaced the entire output part of the pump.... 1" PVC, lots of dremeling, and lots of epoxy.

I still think I can get 27-28ish though. It still feels like some venturi improvements will help.

take a pic I wanna see :D

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7948959#post7948959 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley [/i]
[B]I'm up to 22 scfh Randal, on my RMA-7-SSV. Although I replaced the entire output part of the pump.... 1" PVC, lots of dremeling, and lots of epoxy.

I still think I can get 27-28ish though. It still feels like some venturi improvements will help. [/B][/QUOTE]

Step away from the skimmer very slowly................and FIX YOUR CAMERA!


Please :lol:

For those of you who are getting extra air into their skimmers how is the turbulence after compared to before. You can get 1000 sfcm in there but if the foam head isn't stable, its not going to skim very well.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7948954#post7948954 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by joe healey [/i]
[B]I had/have the same issue, waiting for a new pump from marine solutions. another local reeefer had the same also and got a new pump and it works fine. seems to be a problem with some pumps. hopefully my new pump will arrive soon and also work. i think that coral vue is starting to become aware of the issue, seems like more people are having this happen [/B][/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info, I will contact marine solutions about getting a new pump. There service so far has been excellent.

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7949298#post7949298 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE [/i]
[B]For those of you who are getting extra air into their skimmers how is the turbulence after compared to before. You can get 1000 sfcm in there but if the foam head isn't stable, its not going to skim very well. [/B][/QUOTE]

I've got the output pipe set about and inch below the bottom of the union (Nw200) and its pushing foam out. Seems pretty stable to me. Its also pushing enough air now that when foam gets up above the neck, it gets sucked into the cup, instead of just hanging up there until it gets pushed out of the way.


Heres what I did, I'll try to take some pics when I get home, but its going to just look like a mess.

Look at your pump from the front. See the circle part that the volute slips into? See the pump output pipe coming out of it? Cut it out. Dremel out the case a bit, and fit a 1" PVC pipe in its place. PVC cement it in with the thickened PVC cement that will fill gaps. Use lots.

Take the dremel back out and port the area that flows into the 1" pipe. Get yourself a 1" union and chop it down as short as possible. Put this on the pipe coming off the pump. Get a 1" elbow, chop it down too, and put it on top of the union. Get a 1" to 3/4" bushing. The bushing should replace the flange part of the union that attaches to the body pretty well. Port out bushing and union part on body.

Next, pull off the volute, port out around the little peace sign looking thing on the intake. Be careful, its thin plastic. (this part may later get replaced with 1 1/4" pvc, we'll see.)

Next, the short venturi: pull out the piece of plastic. Drill through the venturi at an angle so you can slide airline into the venturi, so that it comes out at the hole. This parts tough because theres not all that much extra plastic there, but I gained 2-4 scfh on just getting rid of that bend on the air intake. (Next I'll try the 1/4" ID tube I've got sitting around..gotta figure out a way to get it in though.....)

I'll post pics tonight... I still want to try replacing the impellar with a pinwheel....

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7949298#post7949298 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE [/i]
[B]For those of you who are getting extra air into their skimmers how is the turbulence after compared to before. You can get 1000 sfcm in there but if the foam head isn't stable, its not going to skim very well. [/B][/QUOTE]
You’re opening up a can of worms with that question. This may even be off topic. Im not sure what people mean when they say foam head stability. To me head stability is kind of a catch fraise to say the skimmer is producing foam. But some people just mean low turbulence. I think their more to it than Foam Head Stability than just low turbulence.
Their is another factors to consider. Restriction on air flow seems to consistently improve skimmer foam head stability/performance. Why I’m not sure but I have my theory's. At 9 scfh, a little air flow restriction helps foam production allot. The silencer or a flow meter provides enough to do that. I see skimmate production go up every time by adding a little air flow restriction. At 20 SCFH I need actually turn the flow meter valve down to create more air restriction to get good foam. I dial the air flow down to 18 scfh, and foam is producing again. This makes a huge difference. If I open the air back up it kills the foam head production instantly.

That said I am able to stabilize the foam head after each mod I’ve done.

When I got my skimmer it pulled 9 SCFH skimmate was very very stable about only 1/2" neck got dirty. Skimmate shows up fast (after break-in period)
12 SCFH very stable skimmate shows up fast
14 SCFH unstable 36 hours no skimmate, had to dial back air flow meter to produce foam.
16 SCFH stable 4 hours to produce skimmate
20 SCFH unstable had to dial back flow meter to produce foam.

Turbulence, and shortened contact time, makes the air mods to the in-sump models only step 1 in trying to improve skimmer performance. Step 2 for me is the recirc mod. And step 3 is a diffuser not necessary but I believe would improve performance (not as detailed a diffuser as spazz's...). I think these rules apply to all NW skimmers as far as improving performance even H&S. IMO.

I have the nw200 and am having some trouble getting a good foam production. Today is 1 week and I have yet to get anything in the cup. Where are most running their water level? I've tried right at where the neck starts to all the way up. On thing I noticed when the riser is almost fully extended is that the bubble consistancy changes almost in an exact pattten. Say 3/4 up the neck for water height the bubbles will be small and it looks like it should for building foam then after about 5 seconds it changes to larger bubbles and collapses about an inch down the neck. It is roughly the same amount of time over and over. It's like the pump is surging or is that too much head? Anyone have any ideas?

rc1214b, what depth of water is yours sitting in?

My NW-200 is in 9" of water and my riser is just slightly above the bottom of the collection cup union. Working well for me.

Rich, you need to post those mods in the mod thread also. I moded the venture also with good results. I did a few more mods also ill get on posting them later. Im trying just to do 1 mod at a time to check the results better. But im getting ancy now. I did not notice any improvement out of moding the intake section (the Rich, you need to post those mods in the mod thread also. I moded the venture also with good results. I did a few more mods also ill get on posting them later. Im trying just to do 1 mod at a time to check the results better. But im getting ancy now. I did not notice any improvement out of moding the intake section (the peace sign).
The clear pipe that goes into the union, I tapered the end of it and smoothed that transition. At the same time I drilled four 3/16 holes into the Tee to diffuse the body input turbulence and reduce a little back pressure I got 3-4 scfh there. It seemed like it made more improvement than it should have, but that and the venture mod got me up to 20 SCFH.

I really want to get to work on that Shredder model. I got some real good ideas for that. I think it has a ton of potential.

Hey Ereefic, mine is also in 9" but my riser is just below the lip where the formed neck starts. Why would there be such a difference if their both in 9" water?

rc1214b
do you have the silencer on it?

I know your water level has to be higher in the neck but does your pump or bubble size look like it rises then falls if you go high?

Roland, no I do not, do you think that might help?

[QUOTE][i]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7950973#post7950973 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques [/i]
[B]
The clear pipe that goes into the union, I tapered the end of it and smoothed that transition. At the same time I drilled four 3/16 holes into the Tee to diffuse the body input turbulence and reduce a little back pressure I got 3-4 scfh there. It seemed like it made more improvement than it should have, but that and the venture mod got me up to 20 SCFH.[/B][/QUOTE]

Jackpot....

I've been thinking that narrow piece is an issue...I'll see what I can do tonight.

I set my riser to just below the union also to see what it does. The top has somewhat of a foam look to it, it's not just the boiling water look. It almost spills over into the collection cup then like I said before after a short period of time it dies down and drops to about an inch below the top, then the bubbles look smaller and it rises up again. This is roughly a 10 -20 second process over and over.