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View Full Version : The $120 250w HQI ballast setup


electric130
11/10/2006, 03:42 PM
So you want a 250w DE or "HQI" setup, but don't like the pricetag the proper M80 or "HQI" ballasts bring such as $181 for a single PFO HQI ballast or $150 for a Blue Wave III. Well, this setup will save you a little money:

$90 - M80 250w "HQI" ballast from Hello Lights (http://www.hellolights.com/25hadmam80ba.html)
$3.75 - Grounded Power Cord from Hello Lights (http://www.hellolights.com/grpoco.html) (possibly cheaper other places)
$16 - 8"x8"x4" NEMA1 Enclosure (box) from Lowe's
$9 - 9ft black, 3-prong, 16ga extension cord from Lowes

That's right about $120. So this will save you $30 over the BWIII or $60 over the PFO HQI ballast. while it's not a huge savings, it's also a lot more fun building it than just opening up a box and pluging something in. Maybe that's just me? :eek1:

or you could go with a 3 light setup:
$270 - 3 M80 ballasts from Hellolights
$11.25 - 3 grounded cords from Hellolights
$34.50 - 12"x18"x6" NEMA1 enclosure from Automation Direct (http://web6.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Enclosures/Metal/NEMA_1/Screw_Cover_Wall_Mount_/Painted_with_Knockouts/SC121806)
$27 - 3 9ft Black extenstion cords from Lowe's

that's $342.75 for a 3 ballast 250w HQI setup versus $370 for a BWIII and a BWVII setup or $525 for a single and dual PFO HQI ballast (MY GOD!!!!! )

clearly your biggest savings would be if you were to upgrade your system one ballast at a time. not everyone will do that so this setup isn't for everyone. it's mainly for the people that want to save a little while taking on a simple project for fun. of course, you could save even more by not even buying an enclosure and just mounting the ballast and components to a piece of wood or metal. as long as you maintain the grounding integrity, and keep an eye on the heat once everything's set up, there's no problem with this. so then your savings could be anywhere from $45 on up.

so here's the setup i just made:

Outside
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/10832HQI_3.JPG

Whole Setup:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/10832HQI_1.JPG
I used the 9ft extension cord to go to the lights. rather than buying some other connector, i used the exsisting 3-prong. however, since this could be confused as a standard power connector, i painted the end of it white to distinguish it. if you wanted to be extra careful, you could label it as well.

Close-Up of Case:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/10832HQI_2.JPG
the white tube is the capacitor, the black thing at the top is the ignitor, and of course the massive, heavy thing at the bottom is the ballast core. again, you can see the lighting connector painted white.

this project is not for everyone since you're playing around with electricity and it can be dangerous. that said, it's an easy and fun project. the wiring diagram is on the sticker on top of the ballast, so there's no way to mess that up. have fun and feel free to ask questions.

RicGio
11/10/2006, 05:43 PM
Why? Hellolights has an electronic ballast (ARO) for $99 and a reflector for $29.99. Buy the grounded cord for $3.75 and some 12-2 SJ cord from lowes and your in with an ELECTRONIC ballast AND reflector for $140.

electric130
11/10/2006, 06:06 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8519865#post8519865 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RicGio
Why? Hellolights has an electronic ballast (ARO) for $99 and a reflector for $29.99. Buy the grounded cord for $3.75 and some 12-2 SJ cord from lowes and your in with an ELECTRONIC ballast AND reflector for $140. because an ELECTRONIC ballast can't drive DE's to their specs. an ELECTRONIC ballast will underdrive DE's and you might as well spend your money on SE's. you can do the research yourself and you'll see that every 250w electronic ballast out there will drive bulbs at a much lower PAR than an M80. DE's are only superior to SE's when driven by an M80 ballast and in a proper pendant like a PFO Mini or Reef Optix III. but even with SE's, the PAR output on an M80 is significantly higher than on electronic ballasts. i have owned electronic ballasts in the past and i'm aware of their shortcomings. that's why i'll always run M80 ballasts in the future for 250w DE's or even SE's.

oh yeah, that ARO ballast at $100 is on sale. it's not always that price. the M80 for $89 is a normal, not a sale price. sure if you wait to get things on sale, you could build this setup for even less. the point is that excluding sale prices and shipping, this is a far superior setup to an electronic ballast setup. you have to compare apples to apples. if you don't put your electronic in an enclosure, then compare that to the M80 without an enclosure the cords and reflectors will be the same for either setup, so you're still left with the electronic ballast costing $35 more than the M80 and you're not going to have anywhere near the amount of PAR with the electronic as with the M80. it's your call on what you want for your tank. i'm just speaking from experience.

easttn
11/10/2006, 06:09 PM
Great to see you back JR.

electric130
11/10/2006, 06:19 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8520003#post8520003 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by easttn
Great to see you back JR.
thanks. just starting to piece together the equipment for the next tank. should be moving back to charlotte in the spring.

easttn
11/10/2006, 06:53 PM
Figures a "bubble head" would shoot you down.

I was an Intermediate Maintenance (AIMD) AT5 back in the 80's. So I'm just rednecking RicGio.

Salute and shake the hands of a military man tomorrow everyone. Without folks like JR we would not be THE place to live.

Happy BDAY all you jarheads!
Semper Fi - Always faithful
Ooh-rah!


Sorry JR, back to the thread.

RicGio
11/10/2006, 07:30 PM
Do Icecaps "underfire" DE's? That's what I'm setting up on my 90. I work with magnetic ballasts frequently on light fixtures ranging from 75-400watt . They run a little hot for my liking, and the caps tend to fry. Some of the lower wattage ones even emit an audible humm.

No problems, Easttn...we needed guys to guard the gates to our base. You guys always had nice shiny belt buckles! LOL

electric130
11/10/2006, 07:50 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8520499#post8520499 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RicGio
Do Icecaps "underfire" DE's? That's what I'm setting up on my 90. I work with magnetic ballasts frequently on light fixtures ranging from 75-400watt . They run a little hot for my liking, and the caps tend to fry. Some of the lower wattage ones even emit an audible humm. yes they do. you can see the comparison of icecaps to M80's on Sanjay's site. comparing the AB 10k DE on icecap to M80, the PAR's are 101 and 128 respectively. you're talking about over a 25% difference. using JBNY's results from SE's, the PAR for the SE AB 10k was 422 on icecap and 659 on M80. again, over a 25% difference. basically, the M80's drive all bulbs to higher PAR. yes they put off more heat, but i don't think it's that bad. electronics still get warm. i had both icecap and ARO 250's. they weren't as hot as magnetics, but they definitely weren't cool. again, it's all a matter of preference. my goal with this was to show how you could save a little by doing a DIY M80 setup for those that want to run M80's.

joshuasamuels
12/28/2006, 01:25 AM
Now I am a bit confused. Couldn't you buy the whole M80 setup (with reflector) for $111?

Look at: http://www.hellolights.com/25m1methalre.html

electric130
12/28/2006, 08:04 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8839799#post8839799 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by joshuasamuels
Now I am a bit confused. Couldn't you buy the whole M80 setup (with reflector) for $111?

Look at: http://www.hellolights.com/25m1methalre.html sure can. you'd still need to buy the cord to go between the bulb and ballast and the enclosure to mount the ballast in. my point in this was to illustrate to people how to do a DIY setup versus buying a pre-built one like BW or PFO.