Would this idea work for a beginner to cut acrylic?

[tgunn]

I'm about to journey into the world of DIY acrylic projects for the first time. My first project will be a DIY square recirculating needlewheel skimmer.

I have access to a portable table saw that I can put a good carbide finishing blade in. However I find the small size makes it tough to get good accurate cuts since most of a large sheet hangs off the table.

So I had an idea I'd like to throw out there and see what people think.

I was thinking I could build a simple "table" with an MDF top. The top would be split in two with a gap separating the two halves; perhaps a couple inches.

The idea would be to draw a cut line on the acrylic sheet, and then to line this cut line up to the edge of the gap. After clamping down the piece securely my though is that I could use a flush cut bit in a router to make the cut.

I realize there's probably better ways to do this (ie good quality table saw, jointer to smooth edges, etc), but since this is my first project I'd like to avoid buying specialized tools for now.

I know there's the whole score and snap method, but I've NEVER had luck with that in the past...

Thanks!
Tyler

[jimmyj7090]

Using the router with a guide (I think what you described making) is going to work better than the table saw anyway.

[tgunn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8502692#post8502692 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimmyj7090
Using the router with a guide (I think what you described making) is going to work better than the table saw anyway.

From what I've read a table saw will make decent cuts but they'd need to be smoothed out before joining the pieces anyways.

I'm thinking that a router will pretty much be the main tool I'll need for this and many other projects made of acrylic I can think of.

Perhaps it's time for me to consider investing in a decent router instead of just borrowing one. :)

Tyler

[jimmyj7090]

I'm no pro, but I do all my acrylic cutting with the router and an edge guide. (except the occasional rough cut to make a PH brackett or something like that).

The router sometimes takes a bit more set up time - lineing up the guide, figuring how to clamp everything without the clamps getting into the way, exct... But it's very much worth it IMO. Nice straight cuts, no clean up.

(Plenty of other people are perfectly happy using table saws, I'm just not one of them)

[tgunn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8502807#post8502807 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimmyj7090
I'm no pro, but I do all my acrylic cutting with the router and an edge guide. (except the occasional rough cut to make a PH brackett or something like that).

The router sometimes takes a bit more set up time - lineing up the guide, figuring how to clamp everything without the clamps getting into the way, exct... But it's very much worth it IMO. Nice straight cuts, no clean up.

(Plenty of other people are perfectly happy using table saws, I'm just not one of them)

I think what I like about the idea of using a router in this manner is that I feel I should be able to make very accurate cuts provided I take the time to clamp and set things up properly.

Thanks again for the input. I'm glad to discover that my thinking was sound.

Tyler

[flfirefighter13]

Im not much help for the acrylic portion, but I can tell you that when accuracy counts with wood thats in sheet form I generally build a jig, clamp it down tite and use a circular saw before I try to get good results with a table saw. The concept should be the same for the router, just make sure you set it up right and it will be perfect. Table saws are great if you have one set up right with room to have the sheet supported fully and still be able to push it through safely, this is just usually not the case with table saw's people have at home...... If I could I would but it would mean moving the couch into the garage and knowcking down bedroom walls, Im not sure the wife would like that very much, nor would the landlord:)

[tgunn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8503146#post8503146 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by flfirefighter13
Im not much help for the acrylic portion, but I can tell you that when accuracy counts with wood thats in sheet form I generally build a jig, clamp it down tite and use a circular saw before I try to get good results with a table saw. The concept should be the same for the router, just make sure you set it up right and it will be perfect. Table saws are great if you have one set up right with room to have the sheet supported fully and still be able to push it through safely, this is just usually not the case with table saw's people have at home...... If I could I would but it would mean moving the couch into the garage and knowcking down bedroom walls, Im not sure the wife would like that very much, nor would the landlord:)

I know what you mean... I borrowed a portable table saw this summer when I wanted to cut some 8x4 MDF down to make some shelves for the pantry. I ended up just clamping a guide to the sheet and using my circular saw. In the end that was a LOT easier than trying to use the table saw...

Yeah, I think with a table saw you pretty much need a big-bad heavy duty one... That or one of those wall mounted saws like they have at Home Depot to cut down sheet material.

Thanks for the input!
Tyler

[Vincerama2]

YOu can buy roller stands or mock up some out-feed table to support larger-than-tablesaw-table sized wood.

Having said that, I also use my circular saw for large pieces of wood! I bought a piece of aluminum "angle iron" and screwed it into a piece of plywood. Then I ran my circular saw down this, using the angle-iron as a guide. This cut the plywood right at the saw blade. Now when I need to cut large sheets, I clamp this guide to the wood, using the edge of the plywood as a guide, and pushing the circular saw base up against the angle iron. It gives me nice straight cuts on large wood!

For acrylic, you can roughly cut it with a handheld jigsaw/sabresaw with a $5 acrylic blade, then clean up the edge with a router and edge guide. (I use the edge of my "straight enough" worktable as a guide and I use a straight router bit with a bearing guide on it. Then I clamp the acrylic to the worktable with the edge matched to the edge of the table and adjust the router so the bearing runs along the table's edge. Gives me a nice smooth edge. HOWEVER, it's hard to do with small pieces of acrylic.


V

[Liquid Hobby]

Instead of putting the saw in between to halves, just cut a hole out of the middle of the MDF and put it over the saw, making it a true table saw...

[gbtower]

I would use some sort of a saw (i used to use a jigsaw) to rough cut and then clean it up with the router. You can use just the router, but it'll eat up your bit pretty quick. Also, controlling speed when making a full depth double sided cut can be a challenge (depending on acrylic thickness) if the router isn't up to it. Also, the cleanest edges are when the router is only taking off a hair from the edge, so you may have to make a second pass anyways. Plus, the bit'll waste more material for the same cut. In the end it'll still work, but I'd recommend at least a jigsaw if not the table.

[tgunn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8506090#post8506090 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Vincerama2
YOu can buy roller stands or mock up some out-feed table to support larger-than-tablesaw-table sized wood.

Having said that, I also use my circular saw for large pieces of wood! I bought a piece of aluminum "angle iron" and screwed it into a piece of plywood. Then I ran my circular saw down this, using the angle-iron as a guide. This cut the plywood right at the saw blade. Now when I need to cut large sheets, I clamp this guide to the wood, using the edge of the plywood as a guide, and pushing the circular saw base up against the angle iron. It gives me nice straight cuts on large wood!

For acrylic, you can roughly cut it with a handheld jigsaw/sabresaw with a $5 acrylic blade, then clean up the edge with a router and edge guide. (I use the edge of my "straight enough" worktable as a guide and I use a straight router bit with a bearing guide on it. Then I clamp the acrylic to the worktable with the edge matched to the edge of the table and adjust the router so the bearing runs along the table's edge. Gives me a nice smooth edge. HOWEVER, it's hard to do with small pieces of acrylic.

V

Wow, I really like the angle iron idea for the circular saw! I've always hated how I have to put my guide board to the left or right of where I want to cut.. I'll have to rig something like that!

Hmm, guess it's time for a new jigsaw if I want to try that (mine's broken).. :)

Good idea though. I guess I'll just have to try a few different ways and see what I prefer..

Tyler

[tgunn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8506596#post8506596 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Liquid Hobby
Instead of putting the saw in between to halves, just cut a hole out of the middle of the MDF and put it over the saw, making it a true table saw...

Another good idea. Now if only the table saw fence was more adjustable. :) It's limited to greater than 1" and less than 30" rips due to how it's set up. Not optimal at all.

Tyler

[tgunn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8506780#post8506780 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gbtower
I would use some sort of a saw (i used to use a jigsaw) to rough cut and then clean it up with the router. You can use just the router, but it'll eat up your bit pretty quick. Also, controlling speed when making a full depth double sided cut can be a challenge (depending on acrylic thickness) if the router isn't up to it. Also, the cleanest edges are when the router is only taking off a hair from the edge, so you may have to make a second pass anyways. Plus, the bit'll waste more material for the same cut. In the end it'll still work, but I'd recommend at least a jigsaw if not the table.

By "full depth double sided cut" do you mean a cut through the entire thickness of the acrylic and acrylic being cut on both sides of the bit? Ie using the router as a saw as I'm suggesting?

I can see what you mean though. I'll keep that in mind when I start working on my skimmer..

I've pretty much sold myself on buying a router, so I'll have to make sure to shop for one with a lot of oomph.

Thanks!
Tyler

[Vincerama2]

You can get jigsaws anywhere from $35 to $200. Obviously if you are just rough cutting and not doing "serious" woodwork, then the cheaper ones will work. Though if you want a saw to do other things in the future, then get a "better" one.

V

[tgunn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8508863#post8508863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Vincerama2
You can get jigsaws anywhere from $35 to $200. Obviously if you are just rough cutting and not doing "serious" woodwork, then the cheaper ones will work. Though if you want a saw to do other things in the future, then get a "better" one.

V

I have learnt my lesson about super cheap tools. My circular saw was $25 and it is definely not a tool I enjoy using. No magnetic brake and no cutting power. :)

I tend to try to get something middle of the line . I've always found the jigsaw (now broken) that I have indespensible, so I think a new one is in order.

[Vincerama2]

For what it's worth, when I was researching jigsaws (I'm still using my $40 Skil jigsaw) I found that the Bosch 1587 and it's sucessor the 1590 get great reviews. (here is one review http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/b1590rvu.html)

Amazon sells them for about $150 (wait until Amazon has one of those "Buy $150 and get $25 off" promotions!)

I got the plastic cutting blade at Tap Plastic for $5. Though I'm currently using my table saw with a plywood cutting blade on it (works fairly well)

V

[tgunn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8510579#post8510579 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Vincerama2
For what it's worth, when I was researching jigsaws (I'm still using my $40 Skil jigsaw) I found that the Bosch 1587 and it's sucessor the 1590 get great reviews. (here is one review http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/b1590rvu.html)

Amazon sells them for about $150 (wait until Amazon has one of those "Buy $150 and get $25 off" promotions!)

I got the plastic cutting blade at Tap Plastic for $5. Though I'm currently using my table saw with a plywood cutting blade on it (works fairly well)

V

Thanks for the link.. That looks like a great jigsaw! I'll have to add that to my list of tools to get.

My current jigsaw is a black and decker; the tilt adjustment is broken so I not only have to worry about cutting along the line I want to, but also to keep it perpendicular to the work surface. :lol: Not ideal at all!

Tyler

[catalyst]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8502692#post8502692 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimmyj7090
Using the router with a guide (I think what you described making) is going to work better than the table saw anyway.

I've seen this recommended in a number of threads - what router bit do you use to cut a sheet of acrylic in half with a router? A trim bit?

[itZme]

Our local club just had an informative meeting where George Weber- GEO was the speaker. He mentioned needing a "clean up" pass with the router before bonding any surface. If the router is cutting on both sides (as if cutting sheet in half) the chips may be welded back onto either side and cause problems at glue up. If you cut the sheet an 1/8" heavy then trim off the last 1/8" it will give you a much better finished edge ready to glue.

He recommended a 2 flute carbide straight cutting bit for general cutting.
HTH
-- itZme

[catalyst]

He recommended a 2 flute carbide straight cutting bit for general cutting.


thank you!

[FullPull]

long levels such as 4' or 6' models clamped to the surface works awesome with a circular saw as well...I'v cut countertops this way with very accurate cuts. The key is to have both pieces supported after the cut is made to avoid any tear off at all of material

[itZme]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8590822#post8590822 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by catalyst
thank you!

You're welcome. If you are going to be following a guide and don't have guide bearings you will want a "Flush-cut bit" with the bearing on the tip so it will ride on whatever pattern/guide it is that you are following.

[Vincerama2]

Just FYI if you want to make a quick DIY sawguide

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/tl_saws/article/0,2037,DIY_14394_2270605,00.html

V