Auto top off review!!

[Green Mariner]

In case anyone is interested I have just posted my review of an inexpensive auto top off system! The link is in my signature!!

[6-line]

Hi,
GM, seems simple enough, so simple that I've already made this setup using a the reed float switch from Grainger. I just use a common A/B icecube 120v relay to switch on my small sump pump. The only thing I'm waiting for is to buy another reed FS to place in series with the first at the maximum height of sump water level, this for a failsafe to break circuit in case the switch happens to stick 'closed'.

[Olgranddad]

Whats the Grainger part number for the reed float switch? I havn't been able to find any on their web site.

Thanks

[therman]

6 line-

I dont have a sump, just have the float switches in the corner of my main tank, might I say THANK GOD I thought to rig up a backup one from the start. A number of times Ive heard the topoff running for an unusually long period of time. Upon investigation there is usally TWO or more snails all sitting on the float switch!!! Anyhoo, I've been running my topoff with 2 of the switches wired into an extension cord, with a MJ1200 sitting in the RO reservoir plugged into it and 3/8" tube running to the tank. Have had zero problems with it in 6 months. love the setup and its so CHEAP!!!

Olgranddad-

The switch is a Madison model M8000 miniature vertical liquid level switch. Grainger part # 2A554. $10.87 each (they raised the price 37 cents since May :P)

good luck! email me if you have any other ?'s

HTH

Tim

[6-line]

Therman,
I had that vertical switch initially, and it worked horribly and it nearly flooded my sump if it weren't for the photoswitch I had wired in a circuit with a relay. The vert. switch was erratic and the make/break feature was inconsistent. I returned it and bought the horizontally mounted style. IMO, the design is better and it's on the same page as the vertical ones by madison (this one is by Madison as well) part # 2xc13.
Ole Granddad, check out each style and see which you prefer.

[Snailman]

I made my auto topoff with one of the Grainger float switches (2A554) They do not like sidways current. I mounted mine inside a piece of 1 1/4" PVC pipe with a bulkhead strainer on the bottom end so no snails could mess with it either. I have a 20 gallon surge device and this system has worked flawlessly for the last two months even with that. My salinity stays dead on 1.025 all of the time now. These little reed switches are rated for 30 watts and that is more than twice what a MaxiJet 1200 draws so you don't need a slave relay.

[6-line]

Snailman,
I used the relay so I could have it in circuit with the photoswitch (to drop out relay, thus dropping out pump) for my saftey switch. However, since the photoswitch fried, I'm just using two of the horizontal switches in series, just the opposite position (NC vice NO)so it'll open when water level gets too high and if the other switch stuck. I do believe the first vertical switch was defective, but I liked the design of the horizontal on better although it takes up more room.

[newkie]

For the record I first discovered (and was possibly the one who posted the link here) after I found the vendor selling the devices on ebay. I swung a deal and bought two devices. One was to be used for tank overflow protection. Another was to be used for protection in case the sump ran too low. I already have a high quality Sipedon float switch for makeup water.
In any case here are my findings: first I also found the cord to be much too short. Becasue I wanted the unit to be located in the stand and the switch located at water level I had to splice additional speaker wire, what is used between the outlet and the float switch, to make up the length.

second, the device is lacking a simple phono plug which would allow you to disconnect the switch from the outlet. There are no LEDs to let you know the status of power or power to the outlet.

third, one device was defective. instead of cutting the power to the outlet to 0V it read at 100V. Just a warning that the relay may not be very high quality.

fourth, I disassembled the float switch assembly and was disappointed by the way in which electricity was isolated from the water. I would recommend a ground probe to be used with this product at all times. A simple rubber seal is all that is used to keep bare electrical connections from the water. I used heat shrink tubing and aquarium epoxy for added protection.

[Snailman]

Greenbud... I bought one of those things on ebay also just to see how it was made. I agree on the cord, it is way to short. Mine only had 2vac on the outlet when it was off so your unit must be defective. I replaced his float assembly in my application and I was not wild about it either. He did a nice job of packageing it. I would not buy another one.