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View Full Version : Ye olde pH problem


callmedrlove
06/12/2006, 11:39 PM
I'm sure it's been discussed to death, but I assure anyone who replies that if I can solve my pH problem with help from these boards that I will forever preach the gospel of reefcentral's never-ending ability to assist the unknowledgeable. With that introduction out of the way, here's my situation.

I have a 65 gallon tank with the following inhabitants: 4" Yellow Tang, 2" Six Line Wrasse, 3" Maroon Gold Clown, Two 2" Firefish, 2 1/2" Coral Beauty, Bubble Tipped Anemone, Green Button Polyp, assorted snails and crabs, two Serpent Sea Stars, and one Long Spined Urchin. I use standard hobbyist test kits to test everything except pH and Specific Gravity, so the measurements are subject to user error. Calcium ~425, Alk 2.9~3.0, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 75, Phosphate 0, Specific Gravity 1.025, pH 7.8~7.9.

I do not have a CO2 reactor. I believe the reason for the low pH is because the tank is in a tightly sealed room, and due to the heat the windows must remain closed, thereby limiting ventilation. To somewhat circumvent this lack of fresh air, I ran a tube from my skimmer outside to draw fresh air into the skimmer, but this only increased the pH from an average of 7.8 to around 7.9.

I currently add Kalkwasser to my tank using a 5 gallon bucket with airline hose to drip it. This leads to imprecise dosage, so I am buying a peristaltic pump. My question is this: can I mix stronger Kalkwasser in order to increase the pH more while dripping in only enough limewater to account for evaporation? If not, is there any other way to maintain a higher pH?

I recently bought 2 Firefish and 1 Diamond Watchman Goby from my LFS and after I got them into my quarantine tank (in which the water comes from my main tank) one of the Firefish and the Goby died within 2 days. The LFS said it was because my pH was way too low to support fish, and they recommended stopping my Kalkwasser dosing and changing to a 2 part calcium and alkalinity buffer, and then they changed their tune and told me to use baking soda.

When I asked them what this "buffer" actually increased, they said it directly increased pH without affecting anything else. I've read enough of Dr. Randy Holmes-Farley's articles to know this to be untrue. Their point was that my fishs' deaths was completely my fault for having low pH compaired to their pristine 8.3. When I asked them how they kept their pH so perfect they mentioned that they have huge volumes of water, huge protein skimmers, and a huge ozonizer, none of which the average consumer has. Finally they buckled and gave me a credit for my dead fishes, but now I am really interested in maintaining a more healthy pH.

I've rambled long enough. If anyone actually read this far into my post, I appreciate it as will I appreciate any helped offered. Thanks.

Randy Holmes-Farley
06/13/2006, 08:06 AM
OK, let's see what we can come up with. :)

How much limewater (kalkwasser) are you adding each day?

How much solid lime in the limewater?

How are you measuring pH?

You are probably correct about the CO2 level in the room air, but it is worth verifying with an aeration test as outlined in this article:

Low pH: Causes and Cures
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm

Reefski's
06/13/2006, 09:18 AM
how did you acclimate your new fish to the new water conditions?

also it is NOT a QT if it shares water, nets or anything else with your main system. you may as well put them in the main system except they are harder to catch.

Carl

callmedrlove
06/13/2006, 10:45 PM
Limewater addition varies, depending on how reliable my drip system works. On average I add maybe a gallon every couple of days. I use Seachem Kalkwasser and add 1~1.5 Tsp per gallon of reverse osmosis water. The pH is measured using an American Marine Pinpoint pH monitor. As a side note, the last two days have been unusually cool here in Tennesse, and I've been able to have the windows open. As of right now (10:45 pm) the pH is at 8.27 and has hovered around 8.29 for the past two days. Other than opening the windows, nothing has changed.

carloskoi: I used airline tubing to drip them in over the course of a half an hour or so, then floated the bags for about 15 minutes to match temperature. And also, let me clarify. The QT does NOT share water with my main tank. To fill the QT or do water changes on it, I remove water from my main tank and pour it into the QT. I then add fresh saltwater to the main tank. That way when the fish are ready to come out of the QT, they are already acclimated to the exact conditions they will be going into.

As a side note, with having a pH of close to 8.3 the last two days, I've noticed that my BTA has really opened up and almost doubled in size. This gives me even more reason to correct this pesky pH....

Randy Holmes-Farley
06/14/2006, 07:15 AM
Perhaps when the windows cannot be open, you can up the lime to 2 tsp per gallon, and if necessary, increase the evaporation with a fan so that you can add more total volume as well.

callmedrlove
06/14/2006, 09:32 AM
Thanks, I'll try that. As another option, would the use of an ozonizer make a difference? I know very little about the use of ozone in aquariums, other than that it can increase ORP (and I don't really know what that is...), and that it can reduce disease causing organisms and improve clarity.

Randy Holmes-Farley
06/14/2006, 05:14 PM
Ozone will not help raise pH. :)

These articles describe what it does do:

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 1: Chemistry and Biochemistry
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 2: Equipment and Safety
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 3: Changes in a Reef Aquarium upon Initiating Ozone
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php