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View Full Version : Who uses a Phosban Reactor?


highquality
06/12/2006, 02:16 PM
Im trying to decide whether to get a Phosphate sponge or get a phosban reactor. any suggestion?

fittdog8848
06/12/2006, 02:26 PM
I really like my reactor. Really easy to use and change media out.

dj synystr
06/12/2006, 02:28 PM
i love my reactor no phosphates since its been in. change it once a month or so.

highquality
06/12/2006, 03:10 PM
what is it run off of? what kind of media?

monsterReef
06/12/2006, 03:30 PM
check out new Warner Marine PHOSAR, GFO in pellets, no reactor required...

http://www.warnermarine.com/phosar.htm

Works great in a bag... and works even better in a reactor for me. With the old stuff I had my reactor pump throttled back and with PHOSAR I can turn up my water flow, the pellets tumble and don't fly out at flow rates impossible with the granular stuff.

Bret61081
06/12/2006, 06:56 PM
I like my Phosban Ractor....When I tested my phosphates for the first time...they were off the chats...after 2 weeks and 2 jars of the stuff, they are down to .2....should be down to zero hopefully by the end of hte month! Stuff works great

highquality
06/12/2006, 08:29 PM
reactor it is and ill try some pellets. are they all about the same? TLF ?

Warner Marine
06/12/2006, 09:36 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7548531#post7548531 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by highquality
reactor it is and ill try some pellets. are they all about the same? TLF ?

The product is a pelleted form of Ferric Oxide, NSF graded and approved.

badpacket
06/18/2006, 05:15 AM
Hi Warner Marine. Are you going to send Randy from the Chemistry Forum some too test? I think a lot of people might have questions as too how much Phosphate the larger pellets will adsorb compared to the smaller stuff with much greater suface area.
Also, do you know what the mechanics of phosphate movement within the pellet it? I can see the outer edges adsorbing phosphate that comes into contact with it, but then does it continue to get pulled to the center of the pellet, or does it reach a certain depth and then migrate no more?

If it is less effective than Rowaphos, etc, as long as it is in the vicinity as far as removal is concerned, it would be real nice to be able to just throw it in some HOT Aquaclear or something.

Hope to read you response.

Warner Marine
06/18/2006, 12:20 PM
Hello Badpacket,

PHOSaR was engineered, designed and manufactured to be an improved media compared to earlier generation GFO products including Granular media.

The PHOSaR pellet has a more uniform and sharper pore structure compared to the Granular form. This material was developed to address the weaknesses of the Granular form.

And as to surface area affecting adsorption, this is not granular Activated Carbon. The adsorption characteristics for PHOSaR are completely different compared to the large DOC molecules adsorped by GAC.

Pelletized PHOSaR and Granular media have the SAME capacity (to remove Phosphate, Arsenic and Silicates) per weight, but the pelletized PHOSaR allows a drop in pressure across the media bed which means MORE WATER flows THROUGH PHOSaR, not AROUND it. And if used in a Fluidized Media Reactor, PHOSaR is still superior to Granular Media as the pelletized media is more prone to tumble and spin and will allow more water flow through the reactor itself. In addition, the pelletized media is more robust, resistant to grinding itself to powder at higher water flow rates in a Fluidized Media Reactor.

PHOSaR is more FLEXIBLE, in that it can be used in more applications. PHOSaR pulls down Phosphates FASTER than Granular Media in the real world because more water will flow THROUGH it and not around it. PHOSaR is easier to rinse (if you so wish, RO/DI only please) and less dusty. And of course, PHOSaR doesn't stain water like the GFH product from Europe.

And I certainly hope that RANDY tests PHOSaR in his upcoming article. PHOSaR is the next evolutionary step in GFO products and to omit it would be ignoring the elephant in the room, so to speak.

If you or anyone else would like the raw material engineering data that conclusively proves PHOSaR's superiority, please email me at jon@warnermarine.com

Best Wishes,

Jon Warner
Warner Marine

collins
06/18/2006, 12:50 PM
I use one to run carbon, but have run phosban in it with great results

LobsterOfJustice
06/18/2006, 12:56 PM
I love my TLF reactor, I have one to run carbon and one to run phosban. I might check out this pellet stuff next time I have to change it out.

Speckled Grouper
06/18/2006, 01:03 PM
Jon, is PHOSaR available for purchase yet? You listed Champion Lighting and Custom Aquatic as dealers, but I couldn't find it on either of their websites.

Warner Marine
06/18/2006, 01:32 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7582838#post7582838 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Speckled Grouper
Jon, is PHOSaR available for purchase yet? You listed Champion Lighting and Custom Aquatic as dealers, but I couldn't find it on either of their websites.

They simply haven't added it to their dbase yet. Just call them and ask. Champion has it "in stock" ready to ship and Custom Aquatic and others will soon. Numerous retail stores already have it too or can order it of course.

Best Wishes,
Jon Warner
Warner Marine

mr_o98
06/18/2006, 06:32 PM
I run a phosphate reactor with Seachem Phosguard

old salty
06/18/2006, 07:45 PM
I run a TLF reactor with Rowaphos. I know very well that it works because I get an ugly diatom bloom when the media expires.


John,

Very interesting reading with regards to your product. I think the number one reason that people like me use Rowaphos is due to the lack of leeching phosphates when the media is used up. Since I don't want to hijack this persons thread with a hundred questions, could you send me a PM with some more info?

arconom
06/18/2006, 08:03 PM
I would like so more info as well.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7582633#post7582633 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Warner Marine
Hello Badpacket,

.

The PHOSaR pellet has a more uniform and sharper pore structure compared to the Granular form. This material was developed to address the weaknesses of the Granular form.





It seems the only benefit of this is the structure of the media itself?

highquality
06/19/2006, 08:44 PM
I just got two of thw TLF 150 phosban reactors. It says you can use a maxi jet 500, but I dont have one around and want to get the tlf running quickly. what do you guys suggest? split of another pump? how will i know how much water is going thru?

geo*SanAnto
06/19/2006, 09:03 PM
you can split it off another pump, just be sure to run a ball valve or similar to regulate the flow.HTH

highquality
06/19/2006, 09:16 PM
what would you gauhe the flow? whether to use more or less? will the stuff fly out with to much flow and thats how you tell.? can you use to much and be a bad thing?

badpacket
06/21/2006, 12:13 AM
Hi Jon,

Appreciate the reply, was indeed not aware that the adsorption mechanism was differrent. Assuming PHOSaR will survive in HOT filters like Aquaclears, etc, and works as well as Rowa, you should have a winner on your hand.
This being said, I would expect cost to be the deciding factor. Over the lifetime of a $35 fluidized bed reactor, the costs to run Rowa or the non aluminum leaching ones makes the reactor cost basically zero.

Hope to hear good news about it.

glbtrottr
06/21/2006, 11:56 AM
Phosban reactor here...

greenfroggiespawn
06/22/2006, 04:26 AM
Do you guys have pictures? Is it simple to set up?

JCDelbeek
06/23/2006, 03:04 AM
Jon: Is your product cost competitive with the others ... how about cost efficiency i.e. price per mg phosphate removed?

What about longevity i.e. given the same beginning phosphate level, how does longevity compare to the others?

How much phosphate does it remove per unit mass compared to the other products?

And finally .... :-) ... if your product processes more water and hence more phosphate, does that mean it would be exhausted faster and requires more frequent replacement than other products?

Aloha!
Charles

subzero420
06/23/2006, 03:24 AM
3 here, 1 carbon/phosban/de nitrate

heres some pics...

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/6268/dsc006706io.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/5263/dsc007033od.jpg

greenfroggiespawn
06/23/2006, 05:14 AM
Interesting picture. So I can submerge these completely w/o worrying?

bjonesjr1
06/23/2006, 07:53 AM
I use the reactor as well, I use phosban in mine, my phosphate levels have gone down to 0 & I haven't had any algae problems since I added it to my tank. I use a Micro-Jet 450 (http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=AS1173) to run mine just right with the ball valve in line to adjust when needed... Will be installed in my sump when that is built !!!

Here are some other pumps:
Mini-Jet 404 (http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=AS1151)
Mag-Drive Supreme Mini (http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=DN1111)
Eheim 300 Compact (http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=EH1000)

bjonesjr1
06/23/2006, 07:55 AM
Here is a picture on my tank:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/116685mini-HPIM0889.JPG

subzero420
06/23/2006, 01:20 PM
If your going to submerge it you have to completely remove the phosban sticker and all the glue.

yama63
06/23/2006, 01:30 PM
you guys don't use a media bag with it ?? You just dump it in there?? I use a media bag that it came with???

subzero420
06/23/2006, 01:37 PM
haha, media bags only for those people who dont have a reactor, only when you use it in a cannister filters or when put in a high flow part of the sump do you need the media bag.

greenfroggiespawn
06/23/2006, 02:39 PM
Bjonesjr1
Do got pics of the ball valve and lines?

Will I be able to tweek the powerheads? I just heard this was somewhat bad, creating back pressure?

The things is I'm proally gonna hange OUTSIDE of my sump, but the thing is my SUMP Is 21 inches HIGH (if the pump sits below).

So basically it pumps water through the reactor and 'drips' back into the tank? How can you tell its working well or if you have enough media?

highquality
06/23/2006, 10:01 PM
Im not sure if mine is working right! It says to have top 1/2 tumbling , but it looks like the water is coming up one channel area in the granules. Its not coming thru everywhere, but in more concentrated flow zone. So one area at the top is tumbling but not whole 1/2 granules around entire top

LobsterOfJustice
06/23/2006, 10:32 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7618045#post7618045 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by highquality
Im not sure if mine is working right! It says to have top 1/2 tumbling , but it looks like the water is coming up one channel area in the granules. Its not coming thru everywhere, but in more concentrated flow zone. So one area at the top is tumbling but not whole 1/2 granules around entire top

turn up the flow

highquality
06/23/2006, 10:45 PM
but then that channel will be tumbling from top to bottom

bjonesjr1
06/23/2006, 11:30 PM
I'm sorry no pictures of the ball valve on the tubing of this, but I have a the micro jet 450 on the reactor its on the maximum flow it does, I control with the ball valve... I have it to where its barely making the phosban rise, because when its to high of flow, then the phosban becomes floating in the water colume, and thats not good. It is just at a slight tumble, not all over which is ok to me, but it does the job... My phosphates are at 0ppm.

ZoeReef
06/24/2006, 01:23 AM
sub...clean installation guy..well done.

I put phosguard in a canister filter, according to instructions. They did not say to use a sock. In less than 48 hours the volume of media decreased by 1/3.

That tells me there is a whole bunch of phosguard media floating around somewhere in my tank. I've been fighting back with water changes. Lesson learned here...

mikeo1210
06/24/2006, 11:12 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7615076#post7615076 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by subzero420
haha, media bags only for those people who dont have a reactor, only when you use it in a cannister filters or when put in a high flow part of the sump do you need the media bag.

I beg to differ (haha). The way you're using it you HAVE to use the sponges that come with the canister. If you're changing Phosban only once in six months (as suggested) those sponges are going to become nitrate factories. Not to mention you won't be able to use your canister for anything else. You don't need that much Phosban so why use your entire cansiter for it? Loosely packed in an easy flow through mesh bag (like the one that's provided) in a canister w/o sponges is the way to go IMO. Of course I'm not going to laugh at someone who does it differently.

subzero420
06/24/2006, 02:35 PM
The reason I was laughing was because I understood that he put the phosban in the media bag and then put it in the phosban reactor. Whats the point of the reactor if your just going to put it in a media bag? You mine as well just put in your sump somwhere and save $35. The whole point of the reactor is to tumble the media so it has different flow patterns so it makes the media last longer.

I think you missed the whole point, I was just laughing because you dont need to put the media in the bag and then in the reactor, and the way he posted he seemed lost. So dont give me this BS that "Of course I'm not going to laugh at someone who does it differently" cause I wasnt criticizing him.

As for nitrates you might be right about the nitrate factory thing. That was also my concern. We'll see how it goes once I get my tank established, and then deal with it if I need to.

greenfroggiespawn
06/25/2006, 06:54 AM
What media do you guys suggest, and how often and how much do you guys change/use? *using cup as median for measuring?

Will mixing them hurt?

bjonesjr1
06/25/2006, 11:57 AM
Here is a link to my thread to where their is another link I have on my thread to the phosban reactor clip at the bottom of my thread on the last page. Its a small 1 minute video of the reactor working...

My thread (http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=7624957#post7624957)

bjonesjr1
06/25/2006, 11:59 AM
for an answer to greenfroggiespawn, I use 150grams of phosban media in my reactor. its 3x the recommended amount but your able to go up to 5x the amount. On the bottle it recommendes 50grams for 50gallons I believe, But for the phosban reactor to work properly it says that it needs 150grams in it to run right. So I run 150grams for my 55gallon tank. Haven't had any problems since installing the reactor on my tank.

highquality
06/25/2006, 12:10 PM
thanks for the video clip

bjonesjr1
06/25/2006, 12:23 PM
your welcome highquality glad I could help :) :) :)

greenfroggiespawn
06/25/2006, 02:20 PM
Thanks.. Vid helps me a lot.

greenfroggiespawn
06/26/2006, 04:52 AM
I'm thinking of a mini-jet 606 since I have to go about 21 inches. Think that'll work?

Thanks.

bjonesjr1
06/26/2006, 07:00 AM
It should work, it says that you can go up too 48" max with that pump, so.... You just may have to dial it down a bit, you want somewhere in between 80-90gph for the reactor. It doesn't require that much flow, just install the ball valve on the pick-up line & you should be fine.

greenfroggiespawn
06/26/2006, 07:27 AM
Thank you.

I'll update and get pics or something once I get it up. :)

bjonesjr1
06/26/2006, 10:55 AM
Your Welcome, & sounds good about the pictures :) :) :)

greenfroggiespawn
07/02/2006, 04:53 AM
Hi

I got my phosban reactor.

I read the instructions and what not and just want to double check where the 'media belongs'.

It belongs between the 2 sponges right? I can remove the red dispersion plate (about 2.5 inches) but a black sponge is there as well (near top).

Do i have to remove that top one b4 adding media or can I just pour through it and have it sift it?

Also, do you guys use metal clamps or something? I only got 1 ratchet plastic clamp.l

Sorry if confusing. I checked the pick out but just wanna make sure.

arconom
07/02/2006, 10:10 AM
You have to remove the top before adding the media.

gatordustin
07/02/2006, 12:04 PM
I see several people use their phosban reactor to run carbon. I'm buying a TLF reactor today and was wondering if you guys would reccommend a particular brand carbon to use in this reactor. Larger pellet size so it doesn't pump out as easily?

Thanks

highquality
07/02/2006, 12:16 PM
the top sponge and red plate are removed , then tape hole on the downtube and spoon in wet media. the sponge actually goes on top of the red plate at the top when you put them back on.

gatordustin
07/02/2006, 01:16 PM
This was asked several posts ago, but I don't think it was answered. Can I use both carbon and rowaphos in the reactor together? I didn't know if continuous contact b/w the two would cause any problems or not.

I'm asking b/c I only have a 55g tank and would like to run 1/2cup of carbon and 50ml of rowa, and it seems that you need at least 150ml of media in the reactor to get the right tumble.

Thanks

outy
07/02/2006, 02:16 PM
you dont need 150 rowa and you can use carbon rite on top of the rowa many people do

greenfroggiespawn
07/02/2006, 02:40 PM
So:
red (removable)
sponge
media
sponge
red disperse plate?

Sponge ontop of red? Thats odd??

AustinVines
07/02/2006, 03:47 PM
Froggie, mine goes red plate, sponge, media, red plate, sponge. I think I followed the instructions explicitly but who knows. It does seem strange that it isn't just the reverse order but those are the directions.

D

greenfroggiespawn
07/02/2006, 04:12 PM
Ya, pictures says spong over plate for top and bottom. BUt i guess I was a bit unsure cuz when it came, the was red over sponge at the top.

LobsterOfJustice
07/05/2006, 10:56 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7668280#post7668280 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gatordustin
I see several people use their phosban reactor to run carbon. I'm buying a TLF reactor today and was wondering if you guys would reccommend a particular brand carbon to use in this reactor. Larger pellet size so it doesn't pump out as easily?

Thanks

All I know is dont use marineland, about 1/3 of the media ends up floating which is stupid in a reactor.

whiteshark
07/05/2006, 11:07 AM
I just added one 2 days ago. The tank PO4 was testing consistantly at 1. After I hooked up the reactor I tested the outflowing water and it was 0. This thing works pretty well! Hopefully it will only take a week or two and the tank will be 0.

greenfroggiespawn
07/14/2006, 08:24 PM
I set mines up. but suddenly the sponge on teh bottom is not evenly sitting (the bottom one). I put the setting on MAX and LOW just to play around, but currently its on LOW and SLOW.

Is this called channelling? I only see the media moving on one side.

arconom
07/14/2006, 11:32 PM
I think so. I first added a few tablespoons and have run this for 3-4 weeks to get my reef used to low Phosphates. The problem with not having enough media in the reactor is this channeling effect I'm getting also. There is no sweet spot with GPH to make all the media tumble on the top layer.

xtrstangx
07/14/2006, 11:40 PM
I run 2 Phosban reactors, one carbon and one Rowaphos.

greenfroggiespawn
07/15/2006, 04:08 AM
Well I've adjusted it now and i flattened the bottom sponge. I have it on really slow flow (return). Over course of days/weeks I'll increase it.

I got a water change coming up so ya..

LBCBJ
07/15/2006, 09:43 AM
How much many ml per gallon of Rowaphos are you guys using? How many gal/hr is your pump running? I'm using about 100ml with ~25 gal/hour and I'm getting a channeling effect in one area, like a stream shooting up, but only in this one spot. How can I fix this? This is on an 18g nano

greenfroggiespawn
07/18/2006, 12:54 AM
I used all mines and its not even on full force YET !

But it's tumbling everything nicely. ONce in a while try tap or shake the reactor so iot settles and releases bubbles, but you shouldn't have to do this.

Im wondering how oftern i should chnage the media.

melev
07/18/2006, 07:09 AM
Hi guys,

When you set up your reactor, you need to rinse the media (Phosban, Rowaphos, Pura Phoslock, Silphos, etc). What I do is hook it up to my tank, and put the output tubing in a bucket near my tank. Let it push out the red / rust-colored liquid into the bucket. Once it is clear, and the water in the reactor is clear, it is safe to put the tubing in your tank or sump. Replace whatever water drained out with new saltwater. Think of it as a mini-water change.

To dial in the flow, take a sample of the effluent (the water coming out of the reactor). Test it for phosphates. It should read 0. If it is anything higher than 0, you need to decrease the flow, and test it again.

The media's life will vary based on your tank. Test the effluent weekly. Once you see the phosphate appear in the effluent, the media is consumed and needs to be replaced.

When it comes to filling up the reactor, I put a wooden fork (or spoon) in the center tube, and use a canning funnel to keep the media from pouring everywhere.

http://melevsreef.com/pics/06/06/funnel1.jpg

Your goal is 0 phosphate in the output. Don't worry about how the water flows through the reactor nor how the media moves in the reactor. According to TLF, you no longer want the media tumbling.

The reactor may remove phosphate for 30 days in some tanks, and 90 days in another. I have two reactors on my 280g reef, even though one could do the job. Each reactor has about 1" of media in it. I have a third reactor solely to run carbon actively in the reef.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

reefkeeperrut
07/18/2006, 08:15 AM
just 1" of media - that doesn't seem like very much. What kind of media are you using?

melev
07/18/2006, 05:48 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7764054#post7764054 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefkeeperrut
just 1" of media - that doesn't seem like very much. What kind of media are you using?

It isn't a lot, but that way I'm not wasting a huge amount of it as I have found it to solidfy. It is GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide), similar to RowaPhos.

I have used more in the past, but didn't really see a big difference in my results.

Waxxiemann
07/18/2006, 06:12 PM
Marc, I thought you were running JellyBelly Flops in your reactor! :D

melev
07/18/2006, 06:28 PM
Just until Evan ate them. ;)

Waxxiemann
07/18/2006, 06:54 PM
I knew somthing was up when my water changed to rainbow color and everything in my tank died. :p

jdieck
07/18/2006, 07:21 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7683835#post7683835 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LobsterOfJustice
All I know is dont use marineland, about 1/3 of the media ends up floating which is stupid in a reactor.
I would recommend that if you use media that does not clump or if it is too light that it floats just pack the reactor completely:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/18470Reactor2.jpg

Now meet Lil'Abner the one I use for phosphate removing media. It is a Reeftek modified Kalk reactor to provide upflow for the media with fiber filter on the top outlet.
Here it is loaded with 3 pounds of Warner PHOsR media.
I tried it with Rowa a Rowa like and Phosban, as Marc mentions above (Melev) the media clumped together very quickly, now with Warner I really love it. After filling the media in order to clean it I remove the top filter and run fast flow trough it throwing the water away until it clears, then install the filter and adjust the flow.
I am really happy with the Warner stuff, the flow is very uniform across the whole surface, it has not clumped at all after a month running, it took about one third the time and water flow to clean than the Rowa or Phosban and I see a lot less little particles, I used to have to replace the filter plugged with particles once a week, now it has lasted the full month without plugging and of course Phosphates at zero (reactor and Tank)

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/18470LilAbner.jpg

greenfroggiespawn
07/18/2006, 09:02 PM
Whats an estimitable time to check the tank. I have a 90 gallon with a 20 gallon sump.

I travel quite often during certain times and will need to rely on my friend to help me.

jdieck
07/18/2006, 11:12 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7768641#post7768641 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by greenfroggiespawn
Whats an estimitable time to check the tank. I have a 90 gallon with a 20 gallon sump.

I travel quite often during certain times and will need to rely on my friend to help me.
For phosphates you mean? I usually do it every two weeks but if you have new media before you travel it will certainly can wait a month.

ObscurityKnocks
07/25/2006, 12:18 PM
Marc, where did you see/hear that TFL doesn't recommend the media to tumble? According to the docs on their website it still says the top 1/2 inch of granules should tumble like boiling water.

jdieck
07/25/2006, 12:31 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7810027#post7810027 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ObscurityKnocks
Marc, where did you see/hear that TFL doesn't recommend the media to tumble? According to the docs on their website it still says the top 1/2 inch of granules should tumble like boiling water.
I'm not Marc. (just uglier I guess) but anyhow... :D
The new recommendation to minimize media break out and particle carry over is that if you use it in a media bag in the sump it shall be tight, if you use it in a reactor the upflow shall be just enough to rise the media. At this point some of the smaller particles on the surface of the media will stumble a bit.
By the way, to improve filtration of smaller particles I will advise to install some fiber filter before the rector outlet once the media has been rinsed by passing some aquarium water thru it and discarding it.

melev
07/25/2006, 04:16 PM
When you purchase a reactor now, or even the media, these now contain a small typed insert that states not to tumble the media because it causes them to dissolve into far smaller particles.

greenfroggiespawn
07/25/2006, 09:47 PM
as an estimate, how often do u guys change the media? every 2 montsh? i know to go by test but sometimes im so busy and i totally forget to test. but the best i can do is tell my friend to change it.

lol

also can i reun other types of media like silicate absorbers?

melev
07/26/2006, 12:20 PM
Just test the effluent for phosphate. It should read 0. If it is more than 0, it is time to change it.

greenfroggiespawn
07/27/2006, 12:07 AM
thanks currently are there any deals as to where is a cheap place to buy media?

are silicate remover effecient?

Peter Eichler
07/27/2006, 12:56 AM
I've been taking as little break from the hobby (got my new tank tonight :)). I was a bit shocked to see how many people are using phosphate removers considering I thought at first Rowaphos and Phosban were aluminum oxide. So, are there any negatives associated with the iron oxide products?

outy
07/27/2006, 01:14 AM
keep an eye on your alk when you fisrt start up thats the only negative i can think

melev
07/27/2006, 02:35 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7822882#post7822882 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Peter Eichler
I've been taking as little break from the hobby (got my new tank tonight :)). I was a bit shocked to see how many people are using phosphate removers considering I thought at first Rowaphos and Phosban were aluminum oxide. So, are there any negatives associated with the iron oxide products?

Phosban and Rowaphos are GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide). Kent's Phosphate Sponge is Aluminum-based. Aluminum-based phosphate removers affect leathers adversely, based on my own experiences as well as documentation by Randy Holmes Farley (our resident chemist). GFO doesn't affect leathers at all, which is why many of us use them.

Peter Eichler
07/27/2006, 02:59 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7823077#post7823077 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Phosban and Rowaphos are GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide). Kent's Phosphate Sponge is Aluminum-based. Aluminum-based phosphate removers affect leathers adversely, based on my own experiences as well as documentation by Randy Holmes Farley (our resident chemist). GFO doesn't affect leathers at all, which is why many of us use them.

Thanks for the help. I know the negative impact aluminum oxide can have which is why I was shocked at first to see so many people using phosphate removers. Ferric oxide is iron oxide by the way.

Has there been any explanation as to why it has an impact on alkalinity levels?

melev
07/28/2006, 03:59 AM
I'm sure RHF has an article about it. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php

Neptune777
07/28/2006, 11:53 AM
I love the Phosban reactor! I am going to purchase another to run carbon on a regular basis as well!

phishlet
08/17/2006, 10:29 PM
Just set up a Phosban reactor using Two Little Fishies Phosban. The instructions say not to use it with less than 130 grams and not more than 200 grams. One container of Phosban is 150 grams.

So is it OK to put the whole container in the reactor for a 125 reef? I've read in this thread how people recommend "half dosage".

jdieck
08/17/2006, 11:19 PM
You may want to start at half the dosage and ramp up as the phosphate level drops to prevent shocking the system.

melev
08/18/2006, 12:56 AM
Just put in 1" of media. I know some people that run 3 teaspoons on their system, so as not to shock the reef. Using lots of media rarely benefits anything, ime. Better to use a lesser amount, and change it a little more often.

Remember, when you turn it on, test the 'effluent' for phosphate. It should read 0 coming out of the reactor. If it is higher than 0, slow the rate down even further. It should read 0. Then in a week or two, if the level rises, either slow the rate down more or replace the media with fresh.

phishlet
08/18/2006, 07:33 AM
Ok. I have a little over an inch; probably 1.5 inches or so in the chamber. The effluent is very slow. I have it set so there is just the slightest hint of the top of the phosban moving. Sound about right?

MJAnderson
08/18/2006, 09:05 AM
Phishlet,

That's about right.

phishlet
08/18/2006, 01:24 PM
Thanks!