seabass
05/11/2006, 05:06 AM
I’ve enjoyed my old 15-gallon office nano (http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35116&hl=), but when I was faced with having to move it to a new office, I decided to bring it home and upgrade it versus tear it down and move it. And since I only had a few weeks prior notice, I was looking:
• for something that was quick and easy to setup
• to minimize DIY projects
• to have things setup and running a week in advance of the move
• to avoid long wait times establishing a new nitrogen cycle
I was also wanted:
• something small enough that can be moved relatively easy
• something large enough to maintain a relatively stable water chemistry
• to maintain relatively manageable 10% water changes (changing up to 5 gallons a week)
• to minimize the long term costs (of water changes, equipment replacements, electricity…)
• a more diverse selection of livestock to choose from (compared to my old 15 gallon tank)
• something that was immediately available (in stock at PETCO or one of the local fish stores)
• a reef quality light fixture that sat on the tank (not suspended)
• water flow turnover of 20 times or better (without using power consuming sump pumps)
• a tank that was at least 24" in length, 18� in width, but no more than 18� in height.
Tank:
With trying to minimize costs (initial and ongoing), along with the self imposed 5 gallon (10%) water change restriction, I knew I was looking for a tank between 30 and 50 gallons in size. There were some attractive cubes out there, but they cost more and it was harder to find a suitable light fixture for them. Our PETCOs have been starting to stock a good supply of 40 gallon breeder tanks (36x18x16). For around $100, plus a stand, I found a tank that fit my criteria.
New Base Rock and Sand:
Obviously I needed more rock, but LR is expensive and must be properly ‘cycled’ before use. Base rock was a good solution, as my 15-gallon tank already had a good amount of established rock. Reefer Rocks (http://www.reeferrocks.com/) is an excellent online source of base rock and I was able to arrange four (roughly 10lb) rocks, prior to putting them in my tank, to create a suitable base structure. It doesn’t take long for the new rock to become ‘live’ and it doesn’t create an ammonia spike (as there is no die-off). I also added a bag of Nature’s Ocean Bio-Active Live Aragonite Reef Sand (http://www.petco.com/Shop/Product.aspx?R=1686&Nav=1&N=0&Ntt=natures%20ocean&sku=708941&familyID=7452&) from PETCO to supplement the live sand that was being moved.
Lighting:
I purchased a 36� Nova Extreme T-5 Fixture (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12772&N=2004+113175) and replaced one of its standard 460nm actinic bulbs with a 420nm spectrum bulb (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13824&N=2004+113907). Since this is a reef tank, I was concerned that a 156W fixture wouldn’t be enough, but I also wanted to keep the total electrical consumption low. I had heard good things about T5 lighting, but I didn’t know what to expect (especially since the Nova Extreme uses a typical polished reflector instead of some of the higher tech reflectors that are on the market now). However, since I won’t be keeping SPS and the tank is relatively shallow, I gave it a try. I am very pleased with the color and light output from this fixture; and for my tank and livestock, I wouldn’t want any more light. Note: this fixture lets you run as many as three timers to control your light cycle (1 set of LEDs and 2 sets of 2 bulbs).
Power Filter:
I’m using a Penguin BIO-Wheel 350 Power Filter (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12320&N=2004+22769) to provide two media chambers (for a variety of media if desired), as well as substantial surface agitation and flow. I like the idea of using one of the carbon filled filter cartridges (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13373) when needed; in addition, I purchased the optional media basket for other chemical media (but I can also run it without any media or cartridges). For my reef, I have removed the BIO-Wheel.
Skimmer:
I chose the AquaC Remora Protein Skimmer (http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=ACRM) which seems to be doing a reasonable job of skimming so far; however, the increase in water flow is minimal. I have to clean the collector cup a little less than once a week, but I try to do so more frequently.
Powerhead:
I got the SEIO M620 Super Flow Water Pump (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12074&N=2004+113040) to provide a strong but gentle/dispersed current throughout the tank. With the additional 620gph (in addition to power filter and skimmer) of flow, my 40 gallon tank has a turnover of about 25 times an hour. The flow is pretty consistent throughout the tank and I’m pleased with the result.
Heater:
I’m using a 100W Visi-Therm Stealth Heater (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12060&N=2004+113767). It won’t shatter like glass and I find it perfectly capable of maintaining a constant 78° temperature.
Weekly Maintenance:
Since I basically planned on using the same methods that I had been using to care for my 15-gallon nano, I wanted to continue to perform manageable sized water changes; this helps keep things easy and minimizes the ongoing costs. I’ve been using Catalina’s Natural Seawater from PETCO (http://www.petco.com/Shop/Product.aspx?R=6815&Nav=1&Ntt=ocean&N=30%2024&cp=2&Nao=12&sku=910058&familyID=11884&) which comes in a 5 gallon box (and is perfect for a weekly 12.5% water change). I dilute it slightly to maintain the salinity at 1.25. I’ve been enjoying good results, although I might reconsider using a salt mix if I ever purchase an RO system.
Energy Consumption:
One of my goals was to setup en energy efficient reef. With the lights running, but without the heater (which would be fairly typical with the lights on), my setup consumes about 200W of power. It would be less during the night with the heater running, and even less when the heater is not on.
New Tank:
http://pccab.net/40B/Transfer.jpg
With Base Rock:
http://pccab.net/40B/Aquascape.jpg
Today (about 4 months later):
http://pccab.net/40B/tank.jpg
• for something that was quick and easy to setup
• to minimize DIY projects
• to have things setup and running a week in advance of the move
• to avoid long wait times establishing a new nitrogen cycle
I was also wanted:
• something small enough that can be moved relatively easy
• something large enough to maintain a relatively stable water chemistry
• to maintain relatively manageable 10% water changes (changing up to 5 gallons a week)
• to minimize the long term costs (of water changes, equipment replacements, electricity…)
• a more diverse selection of livestock to choose from (compared to my old 15 gallon tank)
• something that was immediately available (in stock at PETCO or one of the local fish stores)
• a reef quality light fixture that sat on the tank (not suspended)
• water flow turnover of 20 times or better (without using power consuming sump pumps)
• a tank that was at least 24" in length, 18� in width, but no more than 18� in height.
Tank:
With trying to minimize costs (initial and ongoing), along with the self imposed 5 gallon (10%) water change restriction, I knew I was looking for a tank between 30 and 50 gallons in size. There were some attractive cubes out there, but they cost more and it was harder to find a suitable light fixture for them. Our PETCOs have been starting to stock a good supply of 40 gallon breeder tanks (36x18x16). For around $100, plus a stand, I found a tank that fit my criteria.
New Base Rock and Sand:
Obviously I needed more rock, but LR is expensive and must be properly ‘cycled’ before use. Base rock was a good solution, as my 15-gallon tank already had a good amount of established rock. Reefer Rocks (http://www.reeferrocks.com/) is an excellent online source of base rock and I was able to arrange four (roughly 10lb) rocks, prior to putting them in my tank, to create a suitable base structure. It doesn’t take long for the new rock to become ‘live’ and it doesn’t create an ammonia spike (as there is no die-off). I also added a bag of Nature’s Ocean Bio-Active Live Aragonite Reef Sand (http://www.petco.com/Shop/Product.aspx?R=1686&Nav=1&N=0&Ntt=natures%20ocean&sku=708941&familyID=7452&) from PETCO to supplement the live sand that was being moved.
Lighting:
I purchased a 36� Nova Extreme T-5 Fixture (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12772&N=2004+113175) and replaced one of its standard 460nm actinic bulbs with a 420nm spectrum bulb (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13824&N=2004+113907). Since this is a reef tank, I was concerned that a 156W fixture wouldn’t be enough, but I also wanted to keep the total electrical consumption low. I had heard good things about T5 lighting, but I didn’t know what to expect (especially since the Nova Extreme uses a typical polished reflector instead of some of the higher tech reflectors that are on the market now). However, since I won’t be keeping SPS and the tank is relatively shallow, I gave it a try. I am very pleased with the color and light output from this fixture; and for my tank and livestock, I wouldn’t want any more light. Note: this fixture lets you run as many as three timers to control your light cycle (1 set of LEDs and 2 sets of 2 bulbs).
Power Filter:
I’m using a Penguin BIO-Wheel 350 Power Filter (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12320&N=2004+22769) to provide two media chambers (for a variety of media if desired), as well as substantial surface agitation and flow. I like the idea of using one of the carbon filled filter cartridges (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13373) when needed; in addition, I purchased the optional media basket for other chemical media (but I can also run it without any media or cartridges). For my reef, I have removed the BIO-Wheel.
Skimmer:
I chose the AquaC Remora Protein Skimmer (http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=ACRM) which seems to be doing a reasonable job of skimming so far; however, the increase in water flow is minimal. I have to clean the collector cup a little less than once a week, but I try to do so more frequently.
Powerhead:
I got the SEIO M620 Super Flow Water Pump (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12074&N=2004+113040) to provide a strong but gentle/dispersed current throughout the tank. With the additional 620gph (in addition to power filter and skimmer) of flow, my 40 gallon tank has a turnover of about 25 times an hour. The flow is pretty consistent throughout the tank and I’m pleased with the result.
Heater:
I’m using a 100W Visi-Therm Stealth Heater (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12060&N=2004+113767). It won’t shatter like glass and I find it perfectly capable of maintaining a constant 78° temperature.
Weekly Maintenance:
Since I basically planned on using the same methods that I had been using to care for my 15-gallon nano, I wanted to continue to perform manageable sized water changes; this helps keep things easy and minimizes the ongoing costs. I’ve been using Catalina’s Natural Seawater from PETCO (http://www.petco.com/Shop/Product.aspx?R=6815&Nav=1&Ntt=ocean&N=30%2024&cp=2&Nao=12&sku=910058&familyID=11884&) which comes in a 5 gallon box (and is perfect for a weekly 12.5% water change). I dilute it slightly to maintain the salinity at 1.25. I’ve been enjoying good results, although I might reconsider using a salt mix if I ever purchase an RO system.
Energy Consumption:
One of my goals was to setup en energy efficient reef. With the lights running, but without the heater (which would be fairly typical with the lights on), my setup consumes about 200W of power. It would be less during the night with the heater running, and even less when the heater is not on.
New Tank:
http://pccab.net/40B/Transfer.jpg
With Base Rock:
http://pccab.net/40B/Aquascape.jpg
Today (about 4 months later):
http://pccab.net/40B/tank.jpg