Eheim 1262 as a return for a 75 gal.

[jmdantguy]

Looking for opinions on an eheim 1262 as a return pump for my 75 gallon Oceanic RR tank. I'm currently using an iwaki WMD30RLXT and it is just too noisy. One of the things that I'm not sure of on the Eheim is the barb fitting. Can you get a good seal on them. I really don't want to have to deal with the salt creep.

[Aquaduck]

I think all you would need for a 75 gallon is an Eheim 1250. I just ordered one for my 90 gollon as a return pump. I have an Iwaki 20RLXT as a return right now and I find it is way too much pump for my sump. You only need 2x to 5X tank volume throughput in your sump, assuming you will be using something else for your in tank circulation. How many feet up from the water level in the sump to the water level in your tank?

THe barb fittings can be unscrewed and standard FPT fittings can be used. The Eheim 1250 is silent in operation and the 1260 may hum a bit. The 1250 only consumes 20W or so. The 1260 is up around 60W. So if you can use the 1250 you will be better off in terms of noise and heat. HTH.

[sjm817]

I use a 1260 on a 90G and it is more than enough. 1262 is pretty big for a 75G.

[jmdantguy]

I am using an ecosystem 3012 as the sump. They recommend between 800 and 1000 g/h. I used to use a RIO 3100 and that didn't have enough flow. As for the return plumbing I have a 4.5 ft rise to the top of the water with 3 3/4 inch outlets across the back of the tank.

[Zoom]

Use 1260 the inlet /outlet thread is 3/4" so you can use a regular fitting from HD yes i use one on my 90G tank. You going to need a valve at the pump outlet very strong pump, it pump almost two time is much as the Mag 7.

[ErikS]

With that rise you'll get close to the max listed output - Eheim, IMHO underrates their pumps.

I'd hazzard a guess & say you'll be getting some 900gph even with the headloss.

[jmdantguy]

From a flow standpoint, how do you think the Eheim would stack up against my current iwaki?... because I was hoping that it would flow less.

[ErikS]

It might be slightly less, but I'd guess not by enough that you'll really notice.

[CW from the OC]

I can't comment on the comparative flows of the Iwaki vs. Eheim.

But, The 1262 is much too big for a 70 if you are doing a single outlett. On my 120 it is nearly too much out of a single. But if you use 3 outletts, that will slow reduce the flow from each and it should work. With 3 outlets, I'd make sure to plump 1 inch internal diameter pipe as far as you can.

One thing you should check is how big is your overflow? My 120 has a single corner overflow, I'm guessing its about 8 inches on each side (tank at home, I'm at office), and the 1262 is very close to maxing the overflow. I have to watch it very closely epecially since I put some mesh over it because a small clown kept taking the roller coaster ride down to the sump.

[Zoom]

My single overflow just barely is able to handle the 1260.

[jnb]

I use a 1262 on my 120 - you can always throttle these down. As it happens I split mine with a smaller hose which goes to my carbon cansiter - these are simple, dependable, cool running (even cooler if your run externally). I run a 1260 for skimmer recirulation, and 1250 to feed the skimmer and the 1262 for main return.

I.E. I like ehiems

[jmdantguy]

I have a single overflow with a durso stand pipe. I have a ball valve on the drain which is closed ever so slightly. If I don't do that, the durso pulls so much water that I get the "gurgle" I was trying to eliminate. I also have a ball valve on the return which is set wide open. If I were to use a 1262, what would be the downside of closing off the return line a little to control the flow from the pump... would the pump overheat, leaks from the hose connections, etc.

[jnb]

no as stated above - you can throttle these down with no problems


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6593332#post6593332 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmdantguy
I have a single overflow with a durso stand pipe. I have a ball valve on the drain which is closed ever so slightly. If I don't do that, the durso pulls so much water that I get the "gurgle" I was trying to eliminate. I also have a ball valve on the return which is set wide open. If I were to use a 1262, what would be the downside of closing off the return line a little to control the flow from the pump... would the pump overheat, leaks from the hose connections, etc.

[stgla]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6592457#post6592457 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Zoom
Use 1260 the inlet /outlet thread is 3/4" so you can use a regular fitting from HD yes i use one on my 90G tank.

I assume this is true of the 1262 also. The Marine Depot guy gave me bad info on whether you can use hard plumbing with this. So I can take off teh barb attachment and run rigid PVC with a male threaded connection to the 3/4" FPT outlet? Should I try to upsize the plumbing to 1" or is 3/4" ok for the whole run? I was planning to run it up five feet and then through a SCWD to two tank returns.

[jmdantguy]

What is the best way to secure the hose on the barb end of the Eheim? I would assume hose clamps?

And thank you for all of your feed back.

John

[jnb]

ehiem comes with the barb connector it is a screw down compressing nut - best way I can describe - look closely at

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=EH1260

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6594191#post6594191 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmdantguy
What is the best way to secure the hose on the barb end of the Eheim? I would assume hose clamps?

And thank you for all of your feed back.

John

[CW from the OC]

More specifically, the 1262 comes with a 1 inch barb for the input, and a 3/4 inch barb for the output. Both have a special nut on them that locks the hose to the barb, so no additional clamp is needed. It seems VERY secure when you hand tighten it.

One trick is to put the 1 inch input barb on the OUTPUT side of the pump (especially if installling it in sump). This will allow you to run 1 inch internal diameter hose up to the top of the tank. This helps reduce head loss. Every little bit helps if you want to maximize your flow.

A SQWD or whatever it is called will reduce the output significantly. But it should still work pretty dang good.

[stgla]

CW, Thanks for the advice. I will try that. I wish I had known that a week ago when I placed my order for plumbing parts. I'll just trudge out to HD for the 1" stuff.

[jnb]

i thought you suspected you may already have too much flow

i guess he means in sump because hooking up 1 inch to 3/4 outlet is a little more not so exacting a fit


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6594949#post6594949 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stgla
CW, Thanks for the advice. I will try that. I wish I had known that a week ago when I placed my order for plumbing parts. I'll just trudge out to HD for the 1" stuff.

[stgla]

With a SCWD and a 5' vertical restricting flow, I think the 1262 might not be too much, but I guess I'll find out soon enough!

Maybe I'll stick with the 3/4" plumbing then.

[jnb]

sort of depends on how much flow you want from your return verses how much flow you want from powerheads and returns, etc

remember that return flow thru sump opens up having to manage sump water falling noise issues

these days it seems like people are getting the flow they need from closed loop or super powerheads like tunze

and only running enough thru their sump to feed the skimmer properly. usually like three times turnover per hr as example.

sometimes you gotta be a genie to control the noise made by falling water




<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6595098#post6595098 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stgla
With a SCWD and a 5' vertical restricting flow, I think the 1262 might not be too much, but I guess I'll find out soon enough!

Maybe I'll stick with the 3/4" plumbing then.

[JER-Z]

im going w/ the 1250 for the return on my 65g....It's more than enough flow to feed my skimmer...Tunze will be taking care of circulation in the display...

however, it's not up and running yet

[Zoom]

[QUOTE]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6594348#post6594348 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CW from the OC
[B]More specifically, the 1262 comes with a 1 inch barb for the input, and a 3/4 inch barb for the output. Both have a special nut on them that locks the hose to the barb, so no additional clamp is needed. It seems VERY secure when you hand tighten it.

QUOTE]






For the return The 3/4 " hose is to big for the Eheim fitting you going to need to use a SS hose clamp . This is what you need to use.
A regular 3/4" MPT to the Eheim pump thread that is the corect size it is not Metric it is done that way for the USA pump.
Like 3/4" MPT to 1" Barb Insert fitting for a 1" return hose ,Or 3/4" MPT to 3/4" Barb insert fitting For 3/4" hose.
Or 3/4" MPT to 1" slip for PVC Return or 3/4" MPT to 3/4" slip for a 3/4" PVC Return.
This is for the 1260 or 1262.

[stgla]

Steve/Zoom,
Thanks. My head is spinning from the different advice on how to plumb the output on this thing! I guess I'll find out for sure what works when it arrives. Sounds like the best thing is to remove the barb outlet and start with the threaded outlet.

SOmeone else (I forget where) said the European sizing didn't fit quite well with non-metric American plumbing, but I thought they meant the threaded connection, not the barbed one. Barbed connections with hose look like they would have more tolerance for sizing mismatch than threaded or slip/rigid ones, but I'm no plumbing expert.

I'm post my experiences when I do my setup.

[Zoom]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6595823#post6595823 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stgla
Steve/Zoom,
Thanks. My head is spinning from the different advice on how to plumb the output on this thing! I guess I'll find out for sure what works when it arrives. Sounds like the best thing is to remove the barb outlet and start with the threaded outlet.

SOmeone else (I forget where) said the European sizing didn't fit quite well with non-metric American plumbing, but I thought they meant the threaded connection, not the barbed one. Barbed connections with hose look like they would have more tolerance for sizing mismatch than threaded or slip/rigid ones, but I'm no plumbing expert.

I'm post my experiences when I do my setup.


I just install a 1260 i will not joke about it. You can get the fittings you need at HD or LOVES.
Don't even think about using the fittings that comes with the pump I try the 3/4" hose is to big for the Eheim fitting ..
The female thread at the pump the return and the suction side is 3/4" MPT not Metric.

[CW from the OC]

Steve/Zoom,

Well, you are sort of correct. Yeah, the output barb needs something like a 5/8th ID hose, maybe less, I forget the exact size. I solved that problem by simply not using it. The smaller hose will really reduce the output (assuming you want as much as you can get).

Both of the supplied barbs (3/4 and 1 inch) have 3/4 inch threads.

The 1 inch barb fits perfectly in output threads. So he doesn't need anything from HD other than 1 inch ID tubing to attach to the pump. He will need a way to attach the other end of that 1 inch hose to his return nozzle, whatever he decides to use there.

I'd suggest he do what I did: take both of the supplied barbs to HD and buy what he needs, then he wil see what I mean. But I'd not use the smaller one, as you pointed out, is is pretty dang small.

Cheers,

CeeDub

[Zoom]

Like i said i did not use what come with the pump It was so easy to use PVC 3/4" MPT to 1" Slip from HD and use a 1" slip quick disconnect for a future cleaning .