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Vital Idol
12/09/2005, 11:16 AM
I am installing a saddle on 3 inch PVC, I can't seem to get it sealed.
It came with 2 U shaped rods and nuts to mount it with, I was prefering to just glue it on but that didn't work out.
Now I've tried glue with the U rods but am afraid I'll over tighten the nuts and crack/break the 3 inch pipe.

Originally I used normal PVC cement, after about 2-3 hours, I was able to just put some pressure on the saddle and pop it off.
I've never had that happen before with PVC.
So then I went and got the rain-or-shine pvc glue and glued it, still leaking, got some plumbers goop and tried sealing around the edge, still leaking...
I've tightened the nuts down pretty good I think, afraid to go any tighter.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what I should have done (or could do) differently?

RandyStacyE
12/09/2005, 02:29 PM
I don't know just how big of a pipe/hose you are trying to attach to the 3" PVC, but I prefer to drill, tap, use a little thread tape, and screw the fitting into it.

Have you seen these (Uniseal) ?
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/8600/cid/2009

I would drill and thread it if applicable.

Vital Idol
12/09/2005, 04:29 PM
I would have drilled / threaded, but HD and Lowe's didn't have an taps that would match the threads of the push fitting.
I'm just attaching 1/4" polyethelene line (drain line from my RO/DI)

mr. pluto
12/09/2005, 07:08 PM
don't you need a rubber or foam gasket?

Vital Idol
12/09/2005, 07:27 PM
I didn't think I did, the paper insert that came with it didn't really have any instructions on it. The thought did cross my mind though after I couldn't get it sealed.

Justjoe
12/09/2005, 11:40 PM
Usually with those types of saddles, you need to prime and put on extra glue, and while the glue is still setting you tighten up the nuts to snug it up. There are some that have an o-ring inside as well.
Right now it sounds like you may have to cut out that section of 3" pipe and replace it. If the pipe is under pressure, its usually a loosing battle to get them waterproof.
Joe

BeanAnimal
12/10/2005, 12:20 AM
If this drain is "under pressure" then you don't want your RO/DI drain going into it. This at best will cause back pressure that will degrade the output ratio of your unit. Worse, you could back "nasty stuff" up into your unit if a check valve fails.

If replacing this section of pvc is not an option, then a repair saddle may work. These have a rubber gasket that clamps around the pipe.

As far as saddles go, RRThe stuff I have seen at HD is pretty lousy as far as QC. I am not sure if these are glue type saddle, they may require a rubber gasket. If all else fails, grab a few inches of neoprene from someplace (HD should have it as shower liner for under tiled showers). You can make a gasket out of this material and try again to get a good seal. If you over tighten the tie rods,m you may distort the fitting and cause it to leak.

Bean

Bean

Vital Idol
12/10/2005, 02:13 PM
I'm thinking now of just spraying some expanding glue or insulation foam into the top of the saddle to plug it and starting over.
I'm pretty sure its permanently attached now as I've used tons of Plumbers goop around the edges of it.
I'd like to be able to seal the inner edge as well, but that isn't likely since I didn't think it would be this big of an issue, I had already glued in the 2" to 1/2" bushing.
This won't be under pressure, its a shower/toilet drainage pipe. Should be pretty free flowing right?
The 1/4" hole that I put in the pipe is on top, I doubt the 3" PVC will ever be full of water to the point that it would leak.

Thanks for all the tips, I probably should have posted before attempting, would have made a big difference. Although it seemed like such a simple task, I didn't think I need any help.
I expected the hard part to be getting the 1/4" line from my tank stand through the wall, up into the ceiling and to a drainage line.