Glue to repair leaky flex pvc joints

[Kurt448]

I am working on a job to fix some leaky spa flex pvc joints. Unfortunately, the pvc can't be taken out and re-glued, so I am looking for a strong thick glue that will do the trick. My biggest difficulty will be keeping the joints dry long enough to get a good seal. The prior plumber tried to just wrap the whole fittings in huge globs of silicone to stop the dripping, so I need to figure out something a little more permanent and leak-proof. Any help would be appreciated.

[TAB]

red hot might work. No matter what you use, you must stop the water and get a dry surface. I know alot of products say they work on wet surfaces *cough* Bull SH*t * cough* If glued correctly there should be no leaks, hell even if you messed up royaly pvc rarly leaks.

[BruiseAndy]

Drain the hot tub to a level below the leak
let the joint dry out
sand it down to roughen it up
marine grade epoxy.

Now if that doesnt work have fun getting the epoxy off to fix it right.

Don't think you will be able to fix it wet as those spa pump put out some pressure.

[FINFISH]

You might try 3M's 5200 marine adhesive sealant. It can be used underwater- and I've had it in my tanks with fish (at work) for years with no deleterious effects.
A combination of patches might be your best choice (best strength) After prepping and sealing (with whatever sealant/glue you want), overlay another piece of pvc (rigid or flexi) that is split lengthwise and clamp it in place.

[Kurt448]

Thanks guys...any other suggestions. I am not familiar with red hot..where could I find this and what is it exactly? I think epoxy is out of the question, I would at least want to use something else first to make sure I get a solid seal.

[BeanAnimal]

polyurethane based glues will work on wet surfaces... water acts as a catalyst. In any case, you should really rpull the joint apart and fix it properly. That is the only way it is going to be done right.

Bean

[FINFISH]

To that end, you can use a tool called a RAM bit- that is sized for the particular PVC fittings you're using.

[TAB]

Red hot glue is a type of PVC glue... its in a red and white can normally rigth next to the pvc glues. Its actaully blue and thick compared to pvc glue.

[BeanAnimal]

For those who don't know what a "ram but" is.

It is a reamer drill bit designed to re-drill the slip portion of a PVC fitting that has had the pipe cut off inside it. In other words, saw off the old pipe at the edger of the fitting... then use the ram bit to drill out the old piece of pipe that is glued into the fitting. Glue and insert your new ppipe and your good ot go.

Bean

[FINFISH]

Originally posted by TAB
Red hot glue is a type of PVC glue... its in a red and white can normally rigth next to the pvc glues. Its actaully blue and thick compared to pvc glue.

IPS makes a "heavy bodied" grey glue that works very well. I never use the regular stuff any more. Proper prep, purple prime, push'r'in, get'r'done.

[Phyl]

I stumbled across this thread because I was looking for ways of fixing a leaking slip joint. At MACNA we saw a neat trick in a presentation for removing PVC from a slip joint. My husband was hesitant to try it but after reading this thread I figure it was going to be our best shot at fixing it properly. We did some trials tonight on removing pipe from fittings and it worked like a charm.

Cut the PVC to remove the joint. Cut the protruding pipe with snips at a 90* angle to the edge of the fitting. Use heat gun to soften the PVC (which apparently has a lower heat threshold than the fittings), grab with a pair of needle nose pliars and twist until the PVC comes out of the fitting.

[tokitay]

Only way to fix it properly is to remake the joints. You can use the above method. Be careful when heating the fitting, otherwise you will get it too hot and warp it, then the fitting will leak again. IMO, cut it all out and make it up peoperly. Always use primer!

[trstange]

Originally posted by tokitay
Only way to fix it properly is to remake the joints. You can use the above method. Be careful when heating the fitting, otherwise you will get it too hot and warp it, then the fitting will leak again. IMO, cut it all out and make it up peoperly. Always use primer!

I agree. You're better off taking the time to fix it right. Otherwise you'll be fixing it several times trying to stop the leak.

[Phyl]

IME the temperature required to soften the pipe is not nearly great enough to even affect the fitting. You don't need to get the pipe liquid soft, you just need to barely heat it to get it to curl for you. Use as little heat as you can when softening the pipe.

In our application there isn't enough room to get a coupling in where we have had to remove pipe so in lieu of recreating the whole entire masterpiece removing the leaky pipe through heating was our only recourse.

[Kurt448]

Unfortunately, I don't have very good access to the pipes so I am not even sure I could get a heat gun in there...but it sounds like a decent option. Could I use just any heat gun or are there certain ones that I should stick with that reach specific temperatures? Thanks for all of the help!

[Phyl]

I used an old heat gun I had lying around. Practice on a test fitting so that you can see how little heat it takes to soften the pipe within the fitting. It really works suprisingly fast. I think a hair dryer would probably suffice. Make sure to clean the fitting out well with primer before trying to reuse it.

[Kurt448]

I am using flex pvc..is that what you used or are you talking about the straight pvc? If so, you think this method will work on the flex?

[pad]

There is a solvent that is designed to be mixed with small pieces of PVC. Makes a thick gel that you can use to coat the joint. I used to be a swimming pool service guy, believe me I have never seen any joint that can't be redone.

[pad]

Should have said replaced instead of redone

[jer1198]

home depot sell glue tha can be used under water, under pressure, its called Rain R Shine, or Wet R Dry, one of those names, its thick and blue, you can put it around the fitting, and the chemical reaction will draw the glue into the leaking area.

[Kurt448]

Here is what you mentioned...looks like a decent possibility. I think I will try this and the heat gun technique and see which one works better. Obviously re-doing the entire fitting will be more advantages in the future, so we'll see how easy it is to remove the existing tubing.

http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/instance_assets/assets/Photo/Rain-R-Shine_30894.jpg

[TAB]

This is redhot glue
try it I have fixed things arcylic over flows and abs sumb with it
aswell as leaking pvc pipes.
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/044752110327.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)

[keigle]

I have had good luck using Devcon plastic welder(epoxy). You will have to keep the joint from leaking, but once mixed up and applied it only takes 15 min and holds 1500 psi. You can usually get it at any hardware store.

[jer1198]

.thats the stuff

http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/instance_assets/assets/Photo/Rain-R-Shine_30894.jpg [/B][/QUOTE]

[jer1198]

double post

[JohnS_323]

The heat thing works well on smaller sizes (up to 1.5"). It's a little tougher on 2" and downright difficult on 3". BUT I was able to successfully replace (or redo!) several leaking fittings. The 3" took a lot of doing. Slow heat, flat head screw driver, needlenose pliers, large pliers and a TON of patience. When I finally got the pipe out, the fitting was pretty nicked up on the inside. I tried one of those deburring tools (can you say "Useless"), then used a lot of primer and the Rain R Shine stuff above. I really didn't think it would reseal properly, but it worked great!

Whew!

[Kurt448]

Well I tried the head gun trick...it made the flex pvc extremely pliable, however, I don't think it made it any easier to pull it out of the fitting. With all of the wrenching I did on it while it was so soft, I pretty much destroyed it. I tried a little of the red hot stuff to try and coat the exterior of the tubing but that didn't work so well. I may have to give the rain r shine a try.

[JohnS_323]

Did you destroy the PCV pipe sticking out of the fitting, or the fitting itself? If possible, give it a whirl on a test piece. The key I found was cutting the PVC pipe perpendicular to the fitting from the edge to the fitting. Then grab that bugger and start wrapping it around needlenose pliers like an old sardine can (requires serious twisting and wrist strength!). The PVC will absolutely be destroyed. The key is to do as little damage as possible to the fitting.

HTH

[goby1]

http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/showskus.asp?ctg=1&subctg=1&prodgrpid=165
I thought that this flex stuff was for flex pvc... it's clear blue and gummy. It's not supposed to be used with a primer.... G1

[Kurt448]

John, I did exactly as you just said and that is how it eventually came off. The bulkhead which I was trying to get it out of was for the most part undamaged, it did soften quite a bit, but not nearly as much as the flex tubing.

Goby, I have never seen that product in any of the stores that I frequent...between ACE, OSH, HD, and Lowes. Do you know any chains that may carry it?

[JohnS_323]

Kurt, if the bulkhead wasn't too badly damaged you should be able to reuse it. That is providing it didn't warp, as was mentioned by someone earlier in this thread. I didn't have that issue, but I believe that if the fitting did warp, you would not be able to get a new piece of pipe into it. I'm not sure how flex pvc will react, though.

Also, I don't how the Rain R Shine will work with flex pvc. I don't really have a lot of experience with it.

All I can say is load it up with glue and pray!

Good luck

[BeanAnimal]

if the gap is too big... you may want to try and melt PVC shaving into some glue... use it to fill the gap when squishing the pipe together.

PVC tend to get brittle if overglued.... the chemical reaction makes it harder for the glue to penetrate the second time around. You may have to swab it a few times to make sure it gets nice and gummy.

Bean

[goby1]

Kurt, Aquatic Ecosystems carries it. It's number 235 under pvc solvents. They say you need to use this for spaflex (flex pvc). I think the idea is that because it is gummy, the joint will take more abuse from vibrations, etc. I know many people who use regular cement for flex, and they don't have any leaks. If it is truly a chemical issue for compatibility with flex (as opposed to just mechanical), I'd use the flex cement. G1

[BruiseAndy]

prime the pipe and joint until you can scratch off pvc with your fingernail, then you know it's gummy enough to glue. Usually takes 3 times to get it that gummy. Work on 6"+ pvc quite often and thats how we do it and don't get leaks.