Calcium Reactor help

[stevensmd]

I am at the stage where I would like to hook up my calcium reactor...I have the MRC CR-1. What I need now is a bottle, regulator, drip counter and pump...does anyone have advice on where to get these, either locally or internet? Any lessons learned on how to proceed or things to avoid? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....
dave s.

[Pico66]

you can buy the co2 bottle and regualtor with needle valve al together, I'd shop oniline for a good deal.
I'm not familiar with that particular reactor, I had a bubble counter for co2 going into the reactor, and just used a screw on type of plastic drip regulator for the output into the tank.
The mfg might give you suggestions on the pump. Rgs John

[cee]

You can get a used CO2 bottle from any welding supply or fire extinguisher company. My 5 lb. lasts 4-6 months, and I run a pretty heavy dose of CO2. It's about $7 to fill. The regulators can be found on ebay or other places. Mine's a JBJ (I think), and has a fixed output pressure (which keeps it a little cheaper). On a pump, I'd use a Mag3 for that one. The media is a great source of debate; I like the Korralin (or Koralinth, can't remember which). I've tried the Schraun (big pieces or SPS branches), the ARM (crushed coral basically), but I like the one I chose because the particles stay "fluidized" and tumble in the flow.

Dave

[cee]

Oh, use mineral oil in the bubble counter. It doesn't evaporate like water will, and you'll never have to mess with it.

[EvilMel]

Basically you can get a regulator/bubble counter/solenoid all in one place. I think all my stuff is by Milwaukee and I believe I got it from Marine Depot. I really like the idea of having a controller on there as well, but can not for the life of me remember where I got my controller.

Here's the controller I have:
http://www.milwaukeemeters.com.au/paquarium.html

This page (if you scroll down) shows my regulator:
http://www.milwaukeemeters.com.au/ffcontroller.html

You absolutely should buy one with a solenoid, plus make sure it comes with CO2-grade tubing. I also have one of those cheap plastic check valves on my CO2 output so that water doesn't back flow into the regulator and rust it.

Check out this page too (I don't remember if this is where I got it or not):
http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/CA_CO2.html

I like Airweld off of parkside for my CO2 and I think you can get a bottle from them.

[stevensmd]

wow...thanks for all the great ideas....ok first stupid question...when I get the regulator...does it need to have the capability to be electronically controlled? (assuming I would like to get a controller) I figure they make regulators that can NOT be used with a controller??? Sounds like a good way to go for less future headaches, plus if I need to buy all this stuff, it might be better to spend the extra few bucks and go the "automatic" route...
dave

[EvilMel]

I like the mineral oil idea. I never thought of that one.

So I don't think the regulator itself needs to be hooked up to power (I can't remember) but I KNOW the solenoid needs power. That's its think...on when power on, off when power off. Basically with a controller, you hook the solenoid's power cord to the controller and if the controller detects the pH getting too low it shuts off the solenoid, which stops CO2 flow from the regulator. It's nice because pumping too much CO2 into your tank can seriously impact your pH and drive it down too far if you aren't careful.

BUT if your solenoid gets busted (say by saltwater flowing backwards into it and it rusting) then when the power goes out (in a storm or something) the CO2 will still be pumping into your tank. I know because this happened to me. I woke up one night with the power off and heard "blup, blup, blup." I got up and since I also had a battery operated pH meter, I saw that the pH was really low.

So calcium reactors are no joke. It's a pretty serious thing. Take precautions to make sure no water can back-flow into the solenoid.

By the way Dave, I think I have the exact same calcium reactor.

[phlipper84]

mag 3 pump will be too large for that reactor. I have an MRC 2 and it only uses a mag 2.

[EvilMel]

I can look and see what pump I have on mine since I have the exact same reactor. This is the recirculating pump they are talking about. You will also need a pump to pump water into the reactor from the tank and the size of that depends on if you are putting the reactor in the sump or external to it.

[imsqueak]

I could be wrong but I think my milwaukee controller acts on low (or high-I'm tired and have brain disfunction) pH and Dave and I discussed this and determined I waised my money on my controller so now it's just acting as a monitor. I just remember Dave saying he may be able to open it up and switch it to the other end and it would work.

[reefstyle]

You can buy the bottles and co2 on middle brook at airweld or airgas? changed there name.d

[cee]

Phlipper:

I originally had a Mag 2, but got much better performance on my MRC with a Mag 3. It does two things; breaks the CO2 up better and blows hard enough to keep the media fluidized. This is esp. important when you have a large SPS load. Andy and I spoke about this to "upgrade" my reactor.

Watch the Milwaukee controllers; if it's made for freshwater, they turn OFF when the pH gets above the setpoint. Just the opposite of what you want for SW as Don points out. Personally, I don't use a controller and have never had a problem. Once it's "dialed in" to your load, you should be OK. My pH does run about 0.1 lower than "ideal" though, but no ill effects.

Dave

[EvilMel]

Actually my milwaukee pH controller (which was made for freshwater) turns OFF if the pH gets too LOW. So I have no clue what you guys are talking about.

What actually happens is that the red "alarm" light blinks all the time (to let you know that the controller is ON) and then when the pH gets too low the controller turns off and the red light goes out. This way if your light burns out, you would be able to tell. If it worked the other way, you wouldn't ever know if it was working or if the dang light had burned out. I mean they should have put a green LED in there if you ask me, but mine definitely turns OFF when the pH gets BELOW the set point. We checked it numerous times because it seems so odd to have that red light blinking.

[SmartWrasse]

I also think you can do without the controller. The milwaukee reg, bubble, solenoid combo is inexpensive and works fine.