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dpdash
04/10/2005, 07:57 PM
After alot of experimentation, I finally got my standpipe to be totally quiet, now the only noise from the tank is the sump return. The tank is viewable from all sides so the return is a 1" standpipe in the center of the tank. It drains straight down into the sump, there is about 12-14" of excess hose curled up horizontally in the sump, then there is alot of air bubbles which create alot of noise in the sump. I have tried putting a t on the end w/ a pipe above the water line, a t in the sump, 90degree elbows on both sides and nothing does a great job of quieting it down. I tried putting a filter sock over it and it did a pretty good job of quieting the return but I really don't want a sock on the end, just something to clean every other day and possible create too much back pressure and overflow the tank if I let it get clogged up at all. I would greatly appreciate any ideas.
Thanks
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/dpdash/tank2002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/dpdash/tank2003.jpg

Herbert T. Kornfeld
04/10/2005, 08:35 PM
One detail you should provide: how much flow does it handle?

I have many solutions for you depending on the gallonage that goes through it.

One, to make a "U" trap...much like on a sink drain. The tank water goes down into the sump, then makes a U back up to the surface, and at water surface you put a '90' on it that is one pipe size larger (to allow the water to slow down) with a length of similarly larger pipe on it running horizontal. The "U" part lowers the amount of bubbles overall and traps the noise from the downspout area...much like a trap on a sink drain. The horizontal area allows the water to slow down and for the air and water to seperate before being released into the sump. This method works well up to about 300gph through a 1" pipe & 4 feet of height.

If you are at the other end of the spectrum, more like 700gph or so out through a 1" pipe, 4 ft or more, I would instead put a reducer on the end of the hose, or a valve, to create back pressure on the drain pipe. This will handle a bunch of the noise and air that tries to get through, and the remainder will get shot through the restricted part so fast it will be nothing more than the output like an asperated powerhead in your sump. Set up a baffle so the aerated water has to flow over it and thin out the bubbles and your set. Just make sure no large chunks (or snails) can get down your drain and block the restricted part or your gonna flood.

If these two dont work as well as you like, there are more advanced methods, but my Im finished typing for now...so let me know.

sjm817
04/10/2005, 09:32 PM
Here is a DIY (http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=569735) that I saw today. Looks interesting but I think you have a lot more flow than the one posted. I dont like the ribbed drain tubing. It creates a lot of turbulence on the way down.

dpdash
04/10/2005, 10:31 PM
The pump is a blueline rated at 1100gph at 4' but I have a gate valve on it and it is dialed down quite a bit. It is only a 1" standpipe so I don't think I am flowing more than 600-700gph.

The ribbed hose is pretty smooth inside, not like on the outside. Let me know what you think.
Thanks

dpdash
04/10/2005, 10:41 PM
pic of the drain
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/dpdash/tank2001.jpg