Another closed loop question

[wanecek]

Hi there,

I really don't want to drill a hole in my glass tank for a closed loop but I want more flow in my tank with out the power head look.

Has anyone done a closed loop with out drilling holes? Maybe using just a siphon method? I know I would be taking a chance that power can go out and thus I might lose my siphon but I wanted to hear if anyone got it to work. For example what have others done to keep the flow going when you have a outside over flow and the power goes out?

Thanks,
Michael

[Joe Masyga]

I did it without any holes here is a link on how to do it.
http://www.melevsreef.com/closedloop.html

[wanecek]

That's pretty cool.

Did you have the pump and plumbing sitting on the back of the stand or can you run it down so it is located in your stand(below the aquarium instead of behind it)?

Also, the black threaded pipe (part of the cap). Is this necessary or can you just have 2 PVC connectors. One with a smaller threaded end and the cap to screw it on. Does my question make sense?

thanks,
Michael

[Joe Masyga]

My pump is in the stand I can post a pic later when I get home
the black part is not needed you just want access to prime the pump

[wanecek]

Thanks! If you could show me how you set up yours that would be great. What pump did you use?

Thanks,
Michael

[Joe Masyga]

Right now I have a little giant 4mdqx but I'm upgrading to a sequence reef flow hammerhead

[Joe Masyga]

Here are the pics

http://www.rockymountainreefclub.com/members/bosskbh/closed loop 1.JPG


http://www.rockymountainreefclub.com/members/bosskbh/closed loop 2.JPG


http://www.rockymountainreefclub.com/members/bosskbh/closed loop 3.JPG

The only thing I wish I did deferent is I did not put a ball valve on the intake side and I should have

[Rebel]

I know most people plumb it with a threaded cap to prime the pump. I didn't. I just took a large powerhead and short hose and stuck it up the CL intake and turned it on. It took about 2 seconds for the Iwaki 100rlt to catch prime and go.

My biggest advice would be to make sure your intake screen is far enough below the water to not suck air. I started with mine about 3" below the water line, but it would make little whirlpools and suck ait. I had to lower it to about 5".

Jason

[wanecek]

Thanks for the pictures Joe. Using the flexible pvc is a good idea as well. Did you use a SCWD or anything else. Lots of great ideas.

Thanks,
Michael

[artful-dodger]

Hammerhead...big flow!

[ktani]

A thought comes to mind. What if you put a tube in the top of the prime section and then put a T off the main return or a power head. This way if you lose power, you can use the flow into it to prime it so the pump is not running dry.

Jason is absolutely correct on his statement but also be careful if you get it too close to the bottom or it will suck up sand too.

Joe - You can cut the flex hose and put a ball valve in, I would personally do it if you can. Tell me how the pump works.

Kip

[Rebel]

Another thing,
Marine Depot sells larger intake screens--if you do not want to make your own. They are threaded clear PVC.

[aztecdreams]

kip ive turned off the power to mine many times to check it in case of power failure, it keeps its prime. I also used the same method as above includin the flex pvc.

[ktani]

that makes sense as long as there is nothing that is open to the outside air that would break the siphon. Ok never mind my last comment. :-)

[Joe Masyga]

Michael I don't have a SCWD the loop has ten outlets that allow me to get a good random flow

Kip on the new pump I definitely will have the ball valve on the inlet side just for the ease of maintenance I’m hopping to get the pump switched out this weekend.

[wanecek]

Ten outlets, wow that is a lot! Something to think about....

Thanks for all the information. I am glad that I can put in a closed loop with out having to drill anything. Have a Happy New Year!

Thanks,
Michael