RO units.

[brad23]

I was looking at byuing a RO unit, but none of them say if they come with a tank or not. Is that something extra I'd have to buy. Also do all of them come with a shut off switch that turns the RO unit off when it fills the tank.

and how much do replacement filtes cost?

[DaveC]

check out the following places

www.buckeyefieldsupply.com

www.aquaticreefsystems.com

I get my cartridges from buckeyefieldsupply....plus I get the refillable resin for my DI...saves alot of money that way..you can even get refillable carbon cartridges if you like...but they seem to be cheap enough as is....prices are about the best I have found..

DaveC

[Reefmedic79]

None come with tanks unless otherwise stated. Buy a BRUTE rubbermaid trashcan for your own storge tank.
Auto shut offs have to be bought seperatly.
Get the Di filters now to keep from paying extra later for an attachment.


Depending on the output rating of the membrane they're about $50 with DI Cartriges being anywhere from $20-30.

[Fizz71]

I'll just respond to give you an agreement to what was already said. Most RO units do not come with a tank..it's the "home drinking water" type setups that do..but most of the ones you see advertised do not. So unless it says it, expect it not to have a tank. Having said that...if it DOES come with a tank, then all the shutoff stuff should be with it..but since most do NOT come with the tank, the shutoff stuff is extra.

I bought my last one from from Aquatic Reef Systems.. http://www.aquaticreefsystems.com/ ...I mention them because #1..they have a very helpfull staff that will put together most of the parts you'll need to setup a float stop of some sort and help you with that...and #2..they're an RC sponsor that offers a discount to RC members so if you do call them, let them know you came from RC.

I set mine up to work in a rubbermaid contain. I have a float to cut off my pressure pump (because my water pressure sucks) and water suply.

Air, Water and Ice USED to be an RC sponsor: http://airwaterice.com/ ..but apparently they aren't right now. I'll mention them because I've heard great things about them in the past from other folks on RC and they're donating an RO unit for a raffle at our (NCPARS) next event so I have to give them props. :) They used to give a free tds meter with every unit which is important to own.

Good luck.

--Fizz

[bizneil]

i second the air, water, ice suggestion. i just got my reefkeeper a couple weeks ago and i LOVE it. makes perfect water (0 tds... my tap is 148) for my tank, and you can also make just RO water for drinking. customer service is outstanding, and the device is very easy to setup and use. also came with a free electronic TDS meter. though as previously stated, you dont get a container along with the reefkeeper models. you need the dual home/reef setup for that.

[PilotNY]

Air water and ice......I would agree also. Walter has taken care of the shut off valves everytime I call. And the refill cartridges wont kill ya either..........Had mine for 2 1/2 years and hardly a problem.....Great company.

HTH
Carl

[brad23]

what do you guys think of this its cheap and doesn't need to be hooked anywhere and left there for good.

http://airwaterice.com/mighty_mite.htm

[brad23]

...

[Fizz71]

It's not too bad...I'd want to add a DI on it personally and I wouldn't use it for anything larger than maybe a 50 gallon system. 20 - 50 gallons a day will be based on your water quality and water pressure in the house. 20gpd is not a whole lot..especially if you have to remember to turn it off and on. I upgraded to a 100gpd system with a booster pump to make sure I really get 100gpd if I need it in emergencies (I keep about 20 gallons on hand).

I also prefer the clear plastic containers on the units so I can visible see if things need to be changed..especially the DI...but I watch the sediment filter too.

The Typhoon systems at that site are the ones I heard the most positive remarks about.

http://airwaterice.com/typhoon1.htm

Don't get caught up too much on how things get hooked up..all the hookup parts you need for the different ways to hook them up can be bought ad home depots. Mine runs on a saddle valve since I don't need to shut it off myself. However..the shutoff stuff you'll need to make sure you get from them.

Also remember that somewhere around 90% of all RO membranes are made by DOW anyway (the number is probably higher)...so the only difference from unit to unit is the GPD of the membrane, how many prefilters they have, and DI or not DI.

I bought a 25 or 50 GPD unit then upgraded it to 100gpd by buying a 100gpd membrane and an adjustable flow restrictor so I can use any rate membrane I want.

Good luck.

--Fizz

[brad23]

all I have right now is 37g. And possibly a 75g if I ever get rid of my africans.

What exactly do the membranes do the ro units. Also why I would need a 100g a day. Don't you store any of the water it makes for when you need it.

[brad23]

also how much of differnce does the DI add on make to the quality of the water.

[dyazdani]

Brad, the membrane is the "heart" of the RO system. "RO" refers to the membrane itself, a Reverse Osmosis membrane.

Even if you don't use more than a few gallons a day, there are some advantages with getting a larger rated membrane: 1) Fills your water jugs faster 2) has a longer life 3) gives you more capacity in case you want to start using the water for drinking, ice makers, etc.

A 75GPD is a good choice, it is 98% efficient (amount of TDS removed) according to spec. I have a 100GPD, it's only supposed to be 90-92% efficient, but I'm gettting 98% out of mine right now (400TDS down to 9 with RO alone)

[brad23]

What does the membrane remove from the water?

[Fizz71]

TDS stands for total dissolved solids..that's what you're removing. It's a good idea to get a TDS meter to see where you stand...and also to track when it's time to replace the membrane.

RO alone can take it down really low like dyazdani said, then DI can take it all the way down to 0 which would the absolute puriest water you can have for your tank. Me..I'm happy at 8 or 9 and that's WITH DI because my water has a very high TDS to begin with. (I have dyazdani's 400 beat :)).

The prefilters take out the junk that would just clog up the RO as well as get some active carbon involved, then after the RO the DI filter pulls out what's left. RO/DI is basically so void of anything besides H20 that you wouldn't want to drink it. Your salt mix will add the stuff back in the water that needs to be there...and if you don't do alot of water changes there are other trace elements you'd have to add on your own.

My well water is very hard and has alot of phosphates in it..My RO/DI is a must to get all that crap out.

--Fizz