pszemol
06/22/2004, 10:47 PM
Sorry for asking, but I am still very confused with alkalinity of my reef tank water...
I have read in many places people using sodium carbonate (washing soda) to bump up alkalinity. Fine, but it also increases pH because CO3- ion attracts H+ ion and then they form more stable CO2 and we lose H+ ions resulting in pH increase, sometimes to the levels much too high to accept. Also, carbonate ion is very unstable and the change of alkalinity after droping sodium carbonate is only temporary.
Somewhere else I have read about a different method: using some natural alkaline-earth-metal buffers could be better. Some manufacturers even make formulas using alumino-silicate buffers instead of sodium carbonate... (see: Formula No 28 and No 14pH by "Sea-Lab Marine Aquarium Products", Redondo Beach, CA)
For me, not a chemist "alumino-silicate" sounds kind of scarry: is it a smart move to introduce silicates into the solution of a reef tank? If silicates are a limiting factor for diatom blooms in a common tank, aren't we risking such diatom blooms when using alumino-silicates for alkalinity increase?
Also, another concern - how do these earth-metals work? Will popular tests designed for carbonate ions detection, detect correctly alkalinity levels increased with alkaline-earth-metal buffers like alumino-silicates?
Please explain...
On a side note - I am using Sea-Lab Formula 28 as a main calcium suplement in my small tank for years and my calcium levels have been always high. Currently at 575mg/l mark. Alkalinity level measured with Seachem Magnesium/Alkalinity test turned out to be 2.5meq/l for total alkalinity and unfortunately almost ~1meq/l for borate alkalinity - the calculation of "total"-"borate"="carbonate" makes very low, about 1.5meq/l carbonate alkalinity in my tank, so I am considering a method of increasing slowly and safely my neglected alkalinity to desired levels and Sea-Lab No14pH showed up on my shelf totaly forgotten. The lecture of dusted product label rised my concerns I am sharing with you today. :eek1:
I have read in many places people using sodium carbonate (washing soda) to bump up alkalinity. Fine, but it also increases pH because CO3- ion attracts H+ ion and then they form more stable CO2 and we lose H+ ions resulting in pH increase, sometimes to the levels much too high to accept. Also, carbonate ion is very unstable and the change of alkalinity after droping sodium carbonate is only temporary.
Somewhere else I have read about a different method: using some natural alkaline-earth-metal buffers could be better. Some manufacturers even make formulas using alumino-silicate buffers instead of sodium carbonate... (see: Formula No 28 and No 14pH by "Sea-Lab Marine Aquarium Products", Redondo Beach, CA)
For me, not a chemist "alumino-silicate" sounds kind of scarry: is it a smart move to introduce silicates into the solution of a reef tank? If silicates are a limiting factor for diatom blooms in a common tank, aren't we risking such diatom blooms when using alumino-silicates for alkalinity increase?
Also, another concern - how do these earth-metals work? Will popular tests designed for carbonate ions detection, detect correctly alkalinity levels increased with alkaline-earth-metal buffers like alumino-silicates?
Please explain...
On a side note - I am using Sea-Lab Formula 28 as a main calcium suplement in my small tank for years and my calcium levels have been always high. Currently at 575mg/l mark. Alkalinity level measured with Seachem Magnesium/Alkalinity test turned out to be 2.5meq/l for total alkalinity and unfortunately almost ~1meq/l for borate alkalinity - the calculation of "total"-"borate"="carbonate" makes very low, about 1.5meq/l carbonate alkalinity in my tank, so I am considering a method of increasing slowly and safely my neglected alkalinity to desired levels and Sea-Lab No14pH showed up on my shelf totaly forgotten. The lecture of dusted product label rised my concerns I am sharing with you today. :eek1: